Departures Australia Spring 2014

STYLEETC. THE SMART

STYLEETC. THE SMART GUIDE LONDON Q&A with HAKAN ROSENIUS NEWLY RETURNED DESIGNER FOR MEN’S LEATHER, SILVER, CHINA AND CRYSTAL AT ASPREY Why go back to a firm that you once left? 1 I have always been very passionate about the brand, and in the five years I had been away the brand had positively evolved. I have the opportunity here to explore and work closely with unique artisans. What’s unique about Asprey? Asprey 2 is exclusive, at the apex of luxury, and the pieces found here you would not usually find. Many of the pieces are made by our own craftsmen in the Bond Street workshops, many of whom have worked at the company for over 30 years – there are not many brands that can still say that today. As a designer, how do you work with so many 3 different materials and objects? My own personal interests and passions are very widespanning, so I actually find it easier to work across more than one product category at a time. I have an idea, then develop the concept alongside a team of designers/craftsmen through to the end look, so the final product fits with the Asprey aesthetic. asprey.com Intriguing Asprey animal figurines, hand-painted on porcelain Retail renaissance A spate of openings and reopenings, centred around Bond Street, is enlivening some of the biggest brands in the capital: Jimmy Choo (jimmychoo.com) has a new couturemeets-fantasy showroom designed by David Collins Studio just steps from the revamped Dior townhouse (dior.com), which has also introduced a new look to its newly expanded premises. Next door, Hermès (hermes.com) has embarked on a renovation, while just across the street Longchamp (longchamp. com) has debuted its plush outpost to complement their one-year-old flagship on Regent Street. Not to be outdone, Spanish house Loewe (loewe.com) has reinterpreted its home in sumptuous wood-accented white on Mount Street. Spotlight Emporia to know Top: Duke Street Emporium’s bricklined space; right: kaleidoscopic designs from Roksanda Ilincic’s Autumn/Winter line Danielle Romeril Roksanda Ilincic (roksanda. com) has debuted on Mount Street with an interior as uncompromising as her clothes, designed by modish architect David Adjaye and the perfect vehicle for her confident colour sense and graphic shapes. A stone's throw from Oxford Street, the Duke Street Emporium (dukestreetemporium.com), by Jigsaw founders John and Belle Robinson, recalls their Shop at Bluebird – hardto-find brands, well-chosen vintage, artwork, armchairs and a free jukebox. Thomas Tait Rejina Pyo Fresh faces The conveyor belt of award-winning young designers learning their craft and basing themselves in the British capital continues. This year's winner of the first prestigious, global LVMH prize is Canadian-born Thomas Tait (thomastait.com), who took home €300,000 for his business and a year's mentoring from the top luxury conglomerate. Not bad for the Central Saint Martins graduate, whose often oversized experiments with cut and colour are, he admits, hardly mainstream – his autumn Constructivist-style prints should be hot sellers. On his heels comes RCA graduate Danielle Romeril (danielleromeril.com), from Ireland, who wins New Generation sponsorship to present at London Fashion Week – she makes techno plastic and heat-stamped motifs look edgy but feminine. And watch out for Korean-born Rejina Pyo (rejinapyo.com), who has won the Hans Nefkens Fashion Award, collaborated with an H&M subsidiary and is breaking through with her sculpted shapes, slashes of colour and very covetable coats. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: LAUREN CROW, © DALZIEL AND POW, © ROKSANDA (2), © REJINA PYO, IMAGO, JOHNNY MCMILLAN, © ASPREY 44 DEPARTURES-INTERNATIONAL.COM

styleetc. the scene in milan Catwalks, couture and curios Elegant Bodino-designed Primavera bracelet, left, and Tesori del Mare ring, below up and comers Introducing the rising stars of the Italian fashion world The Italian fashion system notoriously lacks encouragement for young talents – they get scooped into the voracious studios of the big brands before making a name for themselves. Now the powersthat-be have recognised a need and are offering help, such as the Italian Vogue-backed Who Is On Next. One winner, Italo-Haitian designer Stella Jean (stellajean.it), scored a coup when Giorgio Armani lent her his fashion theatre for her first show last year. Her colourful, exuberant clothes mixing 1950s Dolce Vita Italian chic with bold, Africaninspired Caribbean wax prints, mismatched with stripes and checks, struck a chord and sales have leapt – her full circle print skirt worn with a simple shirt is a favourite. Also a lover of circle skirts – very short ones – is Fausto Puglisi (faustopuglisi. com), designer of the brashest, boldest Italian fashion since Gianni Versace, but rooted in the rock’n’roll era, not the 1980s. Studded leather jackets and printed fluo skirts or dresses are his joyful style, beloved by modern It girls. He now also fronts 1980s super-glam house Ungaro, following the path of Peter Dundas (now at Pucci), another disciple of high-octane looks. Hot off the runway: an eclecticchic look from Stella Jean’s Autumn/Winter collection clockwise from top right: © stella jean, © tiffany, lauren crow, Laziz Hamani (2) Bodino’s palace The latest place of pilgrimage in Milan is the sumptuous Villa Mozart in its secret garden, now the maison of former Richemont Group art director Giampiero Bodino (giampierobodino.com) and his opulent, Byzantineinfluenced jewels. Bask in his refined, self-curated interiors with his own artwork while he sketches potential designs for your commission. Or catch him at the Paris Biennale in September. a few minutes with Francesca Amfitheatrof the new design director at Tiffany & Co What are your guiding principles as a jewellery 1 designer? I follow my instinct rather than market research. I look at the current bigger picture – fashion, art, archives, what I see around me culturally. I'm quite emotional and obsessive, always thinking about what is in the air. It's surprising that I'm the first female design director at Tiffany, when most jewellery is chosen by women to go with their clothes and fit their lives and feelings. How did the new T Collection come to be? I wanted 2 it to be instantly recognisable, understood globally and based on design, but reflecting the energy of New York. "T" is a very graphic, architectural symbol which we've used to suggest the grid pattern of the city. It has an effortless sense of modernity, which we've enhanced with hidden engineering – flexible chains and smooth hinges. foot note The tod’s makeover After a peripatetic fashion career (Gucci, Valentino, Pinko), Italian designer Alessandra Facchinetti has found a home at Tod’s (tods.com), where she is developing the clothing side and giving a crafted, modernist shot in the arm to accessories. The new season’s elegant, bi-colour pumps with a squared-off new take on the snaffle reflect the metal and metallic leather she used on the catwalk shoes, only available in flagship stores like Milan’s Via della Spiga branch. Look for silver driving moccasins with a geometric layered motif (also on bags) and block-heeled boots in sophisticated pastels or deep berry shades. 3 How does the recently opened Paris flagship fit with the brand’s European presence? Paris is the European centre of high jewellery so it's essential to have a good presence there, and anywhere that people shop internationally. The world is changing fast: maybe one day everything will be online, but for now the experience of being close to the pieces in an intimate setting is important. We will shortly also open in Geneva, and then more European stores as yet under wraps. tiffany.com A trio of diamondencrusted rings from the Amfitheatrofhelmed T Collection departures-international.com 45