BLACKBOOK U R B A N P R I M E R Clockwise from top left: kalbsleberli – or veal liver – a speciality at AuGust; the window display at the eclectic Soeder boutique; Marktgasse Hotel at dusk; the minimalist-chic living room in a Marktgasse suite ➻ and its Delish corner cafe, whose cinnamon rolls and pulledpork sandwiches are the current must-haves. Also not to miss is the in-house brasserie-style Baltho restaurant, with its eye-catching art installation by Zurich-based artist Stefan Burger and sensational Bang-Bang chicken. For traditionalists, the recently opened AuGust (au-gust.ch) offers head-to-tail eating and a wide selection of the region’s sausages from leberkäse to wiedikerli, served in elegant black and white chequerboard surroundings. Perhaps the most modern of the city’s new gastronomic stars can be found high on the Zurich skyline: Clouds (clouds.ch) is perched on the 35th floor of the sky-piercing Prime Tower in Zurich West. From Clouds, you can probably see the postwar modernist structure of Atlantis by Giardino (atlantisbygiardino.ch) at the foot of the Üetliberg mountain. The Atlantis, home to legends from the world of music in its 1970s heyday, from Freddie Mercury to Frank Zappa, reopened late last year after an extensive renovation to its iconic Y-shaped design, courtesy of new owner Giardino. Design, both in fashion and furniture, is surging across the city, with artistic hubs such as Kreis 4 and 5 housing Soeder (soeder.ch), a creative collective ranging from skincare to lighting, and Andina (a-maker.ch), home to metal design draughtsman Nicholas Andina’s raw steel furniture. Under the Viadukt in Zurich West is the flagship of Red Dot-awarded, modular furnishing store Xilobis (xilobis.ch) and the pop-up Cabinet Store (cabinet-store.ch) run by fashion journalist/designer couple the Van Rooijens, with a curated selection of clothes and homewares. Nearby is Street-Files (street-files.com), a destination for fashionistas with retro canvas and leather bags and an avantgarde aesthetic that recalls the spontaneous energy, now 100 years old in this Alpine hub, of Dada. ♦ Colourful shelving unit by Xilobis The Hublot suite at Atlantis by Giardino Clouds’ cucumber mint cooler CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: © MARKTGASSE HOTEL, © XILOBIS, © ATLANTIS BY GIARDINO, © CLOUDS, © MARKTGASSE HOTEL, OLIVER NANZIG, SANDRA KENNEL 38 DEPARTURES-INTERNATIONAL.COM CONTACT PLATINUM CARD SERVICE FOR BOOKINGS
DIOR silk-organza dress ROCHAS pate
Rafting the The Middle Fork of the
A Chinook salmon hovers near a spaw
On my last night on the Middle Fork
ROMA THE HIGHL Midhope Castle, Edin
It all started a year ago when a Fa
Hopetoun House, Edinburgh; right: C
Highland cattle on the grounds of I
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