BLACKBOOK BLACKBOOK S’Accapau’s illuminated bar Fire-grilled shiitake mushrooms, left; counter seating, right S’ACCAPAU Italian restaurants that get it right are few and far between in the bustling Japanese capital, making recent launch of Taku Tabuchi’s hot new ticket all the more intriguing. Having returned from a 15-year stint in Italy and Germany, its been a triumphant homecoming from the experienced chef-cum-restaurateur, whose latest project scores points for its unique flavours and sleek design. Within the dimly lit, subterranean space, guests tuck into the chef’s unconventional interpretations of classic Italian fare, accompanied by world-renowned sommelier Seju Yang’s carefully selected vintages and craft gins. Perfetto. saccapau.jp WASHOKU KUON Chef Hiroshi Kamiyama goes back to the basics with his farm-to-fork establishment in buzzy Yotsuya: diners here are invited to pick and choose their own shiitake mushrooms from a crop of extremely rare specimens imported on logs from Aomori. After fresh fungi, the reservations-only, eight-cover eatery is best known for its extravagant kaiseki dishes that change with the season. wa-kuon.jp The chef’s agnolotti dal plin CHECKING IN: AMAN TOKYO A sleek urban bolthole of the highest order, don’t be fooled by this Otemachi hotspot’s über-contemporary look and feel: the hotel’s clean-lined interiors, from the sky-high lobby atrium to its 84 immaculate rooms and suites, take their cues from traditional Japanese design (think soft woods and washi paper sliding doors). Local touches endure throughout, from each bathroom’s stone furo – or Japanese soaking tub – to the sprawling spa, where herb-based treatments are informed by ancient kampo medicine practices. While Italy-trained chef Masakazu Hiraki ’s fare draws inspiration from the Adriatic coast, quintessential views of the Imperial Palace Gardens and Mount Fuji from the hotel’s restaurant are pure Tokyo. aman.com FROM TOP LEFT: © WASHOKU KUON /HIROMI NAGATOMO, © SACCAPAU (2), © AMAN, © WASHOKU KUON /HIROMI NAGATOMO B Y FUHITO KOSHIMIZ & MATT WILLIS 48 DEPARTURES-INTERNATIONAL.COM
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