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Departures Australia Summer 2020

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DEPARTURES TRAVEL

DEPARTURES TRAVEL NATURAL HIGHS Northern Exposure A handful of outfitters in the frozen Arctic are pairing exceptional comforts with one-of-a-kind opportunities and adventures. by Jemima Sissons THERE ARE FEW TERRAINS that can claim extremes of brutality and beauty as stark as those of the Arctic. Deriving from the Greek for “near the bear”, the Arctic – the swathe of mesmerising terroir above 66 degrees latitude – holds a mystical appeal, not least because in this vast 20,000,000sq km expanse, there are only about four million inhabitants. No danger of having to reserve the ice-lounger outside your igloo here. Yet the prospect of camping in the most basic accommodations, as undertaken by more seasoned explorers, may be limited for many. Happily, there is now a raft of small, perfectly formed hostelries, hotels and spas opening their doors to curious voyagers seeking snowscapes, rare wildlife and some of the most isolated travel there is. But not even the most resourceful hotelier can open on the shores of the ice-laden depths of Baffin Bay or the Bering Strait. To get to these liminal Arctic wildernesses, take to the seas with a luxe expedition yachting company to seek out, for instance, the frigid moonscape of Kamchatka, and spend a day swimming with orca in the open seas before a restorative Balinese massage back in the yacht’s spa suite. Deplar Farm, housed in a converted sheep farm in Iceland’s Fljót Valley; below: alighting in Kamchatka, in Russia’s Far East, for a heli-skiing adventure with Pelorus Arctic Bath Sweden Traditionally when Swedish treefellers transported logs, the quickest way to do it was by river. Now and then, the timber spindles formed an unruly pile and got stuck, known as a logjam. This is the naturalistic inspiration behind the design of the new Arctic Bath hotel in northern Swedish Lapland, which inside showcases the best of Scandi contemporary design. Fly to Luleå, and spend days chasing the northern lights, ice fishing for char or downhill skiing, keeping fuelled by snacks of cloudberries. arcticbath.se Deplar Farm Iceland Although not technically inside the Arctic Circle, this 13-room contemporary lodge in Iceland’s Troll Peninsula offers trips to Grimsey Island, a 30-minute helicopter ride north, which is home to just 90 inhabitants and one million seabirds. After a day spent exploring, guests are lured by the promise of a topto-toe overhaul with the hotel’s new Viking spa experiences – from a rota of hot saunas and cold plunges to breath work, Qi Gong practice and nourishing face masks with local herbs. elevenexperience.com FROM TOP: © ELEVEN EXPERIENCE, © PELORUS

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DANIEL HOLMGREN, © TROMSO ICE DOMES, © OCTOLA Octola Finland Deep in the heart of Finnish Lapland, this ten-suite log-cabin campus is set within 300 hectares of wilderness, with a hand-carved sauna, Michelinstarred food and aurora borealis on tap (the dancing kaleidoscope particles can be seen eight months of the year), best seen from bedrooms with glass ceilings. Launching in December is a new villa and wellness building with a private sauna, outdoor jacuzzi and floor-to-ceiling glass walls: just the ticket for winding down after a day of tobogganing, snowmobiling and a guided wilderness hike. octola.com Ice Domes Norway A bed clad in reindeer skins, expedition-quality sleeping bags and ice in every direction: such is the proposition at these Norwegian domes, constructed every year since 2017 near Tromsø. Overnighting was introduced last year and is expanding this year – even though most guests sensibly choose to stay just one night. Take in the polar panoramas aboard a reindeer sled and don’t skip the moonlit snowshoe tour of the frozen tundra. Book through arcticholiday. co.uk for a multi-day itinerary Pelorus Yacht Expeditions To see the true extremes in indulgent comfort, you have to go by sea, with ice pilots and marine biologists on board. It is afloat the luxury Eros yacht, commanded by haute exploration company Pelorus, that you can traverse the Northwest Passage, with its 24-hour summer sun, dramatic ice fields and volcanic archipelagos. Or try one of the British firm’s other out-of-this-world adventures like scrambling across ex-Soviet army bases in Kamchatka, before boarding a helicopter to ski down virgin pistes on volcanic slopes – truly adventure to match the landscape. pelorusx.com Cookson in Greenland Navigating the Greenland terrain, this tour from adventurer Henry From left: taking a dip in the coldbath at the Arctic Bath in Swedish Lapland; a suite at Tromsø’s Ice Domes retreat; below: the aurora borealis, as seen from Octola, in Finnish Lapland Cookson entails landing on an ice-sheet inland, kite-skiing, dog sledding and for a lucky – and plucky – few, hiking to an unconquered peak and having the opportunity to name it. Based on the ice-class, 77m Legend, experiences range from taking a submarine 300m below the surface to diving in a thermal suit to explore shipwrecks – and a recuperative treatment in the onboard Balinese spa. cooksonadventures.com DEPARTURES 27 PLEASE CHECK THE LATEST GOVERNMENT ADVICE BEFORE BOOKING TRAVEL OR DEPARTING ON ANY TRIP

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