lackbook Clockwise from
lackbook Clockwise from top left: an oasis of calm in the heart of Sydney on the hotel’s private terrace; library in the double-height lobby lounge; all lit up – Harbour Rocks at dusk; billed as the “oldest new restaurant in Sydney”, Scarlett shines with brickwork walls and modern décor an icon updated Rocking the past Looking back as well as forward, the latest incarnation of Harbour Rocks Hotel ticks all the right boxes, says Carrie Hutchinson Sydney Harbour on a sunny day offers one of the most iconic urban vistas on the globe. Here, from the window of room 302 at Harbour Rocks Hotel, the sails of the Opera House and the flags on the roof of the imposing MCA building are transposed © harbour Rocks Hotel 32 departures-international.com Contact platinum card service for bookings
lackbook clockwise FROM TOP right: © argyle xchange, Ben Dearnley, © harbour Rocks Hotel (2) against a cloudless blue sky. You can’t see the water, but it is a matter of a few minutes’ walk out the doors to the edge of Circular Quay, where Sydney’s ferries shuttle commuters from city to suburb. It’s also where, in 1788, Australia’s first European arrivals – British convicts and their keepers – settled. It is the city’s early heritage that has been captured so beautifully throughout Harbour Rocks Hotel, part of the Accor group’s MGallery collection of unique, characterdriven stays. First built in 1887, as Sydney left its penal roots behind, the hotel had been renovated many times. But this latest incarnation, opened last year, reveals its original features – sandstone walls, beams and rough-hewn bricks – while artwork comes in the form of reproductions of letters, maps and photographs from the 1880s. Given the nature of the building, each of its 59 rooms – in five styles, including the topfloor suite with rooftop terrace – is different from the others. The darkly painted bricks and heritage tones create a soothing environment for guests to bask in the stunning sunset views. But it’s the public areas that show off the building’s individuality. A cascading chandelier from Israel lights the staircase; a library of 2,000 books – if you’ve finished reading yours, Bird’s-eye view of the hotel’s venerated edifice and the Sydney Opera House beyond exchange it with another – in the lobby is coupled with inviting sofas; and, sharing the desk with reception, is intimate Eric’s Bar. Downstairs at Scarlett’s Restaurant, a lunchtime table on the tiny terrace – bathed in sunshine and overlooking historic Nurses Walk – feels completely removed from the bustle of the city. While you’re here, ask one of the staff to tell you about Eric and Scarlett. If the Harbour Rocks hasn’t already won your heart, their doomed love story will. harbourrocks.com.au Earth tones and sleek, minimalist furnishings in one of the hotel’s Superior Heritage Rooms a taste of sydney new in town The night heats up at the Argyle Xchange Warehouse-chic at Mr. Wong There was a time when discerning travellers had to choose between high-end fine dining or tourist traps around The Rocks. Recently, however, a slew of bars and restaurants has opened within walking distance. Just metres from Harbour Rocks Hotel is the Argyle Xchange (argylexchange. com.au), a heritage complex with multiple bars and restaurants. Choose from hip Japanese at Saké, the sexy ambience of French brasserie Ananas or masculine basement steakhouse The Cut. Breaking the mould of the hotel bar is Grain (grainbar.com.au) at the nearby Four Seasons, where guests can pair a carefully selected wine – the Grace Gris de Koshu from Japan, for instance – with a plate of seasonal Clair de Lune oysters. Go back to another era at Palmer & Co (merivale.com. au/palmerandco), a subterranean speakeasystyle cocktail bar with vaulted ceilings and period features. There’s an impressive drinks list, including a selection of hooch served during the Prohibition, live jazz, a menu of classic dishes meant to be shared, and a 5 am licence. Which means you can easily start your evening at Mr. Wong (merivale.com.au/ mrwong), the hip Canto restaurant next door run by chefs Dan Hong and Jowett Yu. Both are located within Establishment, part of the Hemmes empire. A little further away, but worth seeking out, is The Rook (therook.com. au). Perched on top of an unassuming office building, it’s a rooftop bar with a roof, which is not a bad idea given Sydney is prone to showers. It’s got a laid-back vibe, an eclectic soundtrack (Johnny Cash and Wham!, anyone?) and a snappy menu that includes burgers, fries, onion rings and lobster rolls. Oh, and the cocktails rock. departures-international.com 33
