StyleEtc. spotlight
StyleEtc. spotlight alejandra quesada Alejandra Quesada (above left) adds her signature – a sprightly melange of colours and shapes – to this outfit from her latest collection (above right) Idesign my collections for independent and bohemian women with a girl inside: women who are fun, original and always want to feel special,” says the Mexico City-based designer who launched her first line in 2006. Her looks are fresh, young at heart and truly cosmopolitan, and her production team of eight collaborates regularly with more than 100 artisans from both Mexico and India to handcraft the intricate embroideries and create the prints that serve as the signature of her label. For her Spring/Summer 2013 collection, Quesada approached renowned Mexican artist Pedro Friedeberg, whose surrealistic works – filled with ancient symbols, colour contrasts and strong structures – gave inspiration to the playful patterns and geometric cuts of the clothing, proving the strong bond between different forms of expressions in the country. “Mexican art, music and fashion have grown together a lot in the last years, developing into one big scene in which creative minds influence each other. I think I am in the right place at the right time,” says Quesada, whose primary wish now is expansion. “It is easy to found an independent label in Mexico. We have one precious resource: highquality and affordable hand-labour. But we still lack raw material and efficient manufacturing to make the business grow.” alejandraquesada.com Trista Soon after meeting at IES Moda Casa de Francia, a Mexican fashion university, Giovanni Estrada and José Alfredo Silva discovered they shared a similar approach, on which they founded their label: creating conceptual collections and meticulously manufactured garments based on technical research and experimentation. The idea for their recent Las Primeras Voces line, for example, originated from Japanese artist Yoshiko Shirata’s study into flower-based dyes and resulted in fabric shades that were produced exclusively using Mexican blossoms. Hungarian writer Sándor Márai’s novel The Last Encounter was the inspiration for this season’s designs, Jamás he vuelto allí (“I have never gone back there”), which combines modern elements such as loose-fitting, asymmetric silhouettes and parachute jackets with nostalgic, burn-like details produced with innovative dyeing techniques. The unique mix of experimental and traditional approaches to fashion makes Trista a label in sync with the spirit of the capital, say the designers: “Our Mexico [City] is a contemporary city full of life, memories, expectations and feelings. It is our past and our present. It is the place we grew up in, surrounded by a strong mixture of information that makes us what we are.”trista.com.mx From left: José Alfredo Silva and Giovanni Estrada, the duo behind Trista; a look from the brand’s new literature-inspired Jamás he vuelto allí collection clockwise FROM TOP LEFT: jose Gonzalez, © Alejandra Quesada, © trista (2) 40 departures-international.com
StyleEtc. alexia ulibarri Feminine, nostalgic and strong is how Ulibarri defines her striking creations, which have established her on the highest echelon of fashion designers in the country. After studying at the London College of Fashion and Central Saint Martins, she launched her first collection, Dark Romance, at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Mexico in 2009. Since then, she has showcased her designs at the prestigious event every season, crafting garments that combine concept and functionality as well as adapt to different personalities and body shapes. One reason for Ulibarri’s success may lay in her deep connection with the female universe, which she says constantly feeds her creativity: “I am always inspired by the lives of other women and by how our gender has evolved and is now perceived in society.” Evidently others are inspired by her, too, as her designs have found success not only in Mexico, but also in the US, UAE, Israel and China. These ready-to-wear lines, however, take a back seat in Ulibarri’s mind to her handcrafted haute couture and bridal attire, which give her an opportunity to explore what she calls her “obsession” with brocades and lace. And it is in their opulent and dramatic style that her Mexican spirit most fully emerges. alexiaulibarri.com From left: London-trained Ulibarri; pastel colours and airy fabrics are the hallmarks of the brand’s Spring/Summer collection julia y renata FROM TOP: © Alexia Ulibarri (2), Guillermina Fernandez (2) Ethereal and feminine with a dash of edge: this season’s Julia y Renata pieces Almost 20 years have passed since the Guadalajara-based sisters Julia and Renata Franco launched their first line, and despite such a diminutive team, which now numbers barely 15, their label maintains one of the largest international presences among all Mexican designers, with sales outlets not only in Guadalajara and Mexico City, but also in New York and in Kuwait. “It is very difficult to establish a fashion brand in Mexico,” explains Julia. “Working very hard is not enough. You also need to achieve recognition abroad in order to attain credibility in this country.” The duo’s offbeat, experimental spirit has led to a wide range of creations, including a line of unique haute couture pieces based on the study of the female form that, unusually, encompass error as an essential contributor to style. The results are seasonless, high-quality garments that play with volume and proportion while exuding feminine coolness. “Our work is introspective,” says Julia. “Our creations reflect our childhood, our experience and at the same time our Mexican heritage with all its complexity.” juliayrenata.com Design team and family in one, the Franco sisters brave the catwalk departures-international.com 41
