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Departures Europe Winter 2020

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38 DEPARTURES TRAVEL ON

38 DEPARTURES TRAVEL ON LOCATION Some may be surprised to learn that a journey through the UAE is not all about the desert. For centuries the coastal waters were a major player in pearl diving, with 80 per cent of the world’s pearls coming from the Arabian Gulf – until Kokichi Mikimoto’s invention of the cultured pearl caused the industry to collapse. (Luckily for residents of the Arabian Peninsula, oil was discovered soon after.) Today, two innovators are reviving interest in pearls here. In Ras Al Khaimah, another swiftly developing emirate, Abdulla Al Suwaidi, grandson of one of the Discovering a treasure with Suwaidi Pearls; above: a bird’seye view of the sandy Fujairah coastline UAE’s last pearl divers, has opened the region’s first pearl farm, Suwaidi Pearls (suwaidipearls.ae). Hop on a traditional diving boat, pick a freshly harvested oyster out of the tank, and try your luck at finding a pearl. There’s even an option to turn it into jewellery in the workshop. Over on the east coast, in Fujairah, Scotland native Ramie Murray had what most considered to be a crazy idea to cultivate edible oysters in the warm Gulf waters. Since opening in 2016, his firm, Dibba Bay Oysters (dibbabay.com), has ramped up the harvest to 100,000 a month, proving the idea not to be so crazy after all and supplying farm-fresh oysters direct to Dubai’s leading restaurants. Driving back west, the road traverses rolling red dunes before arriving back in the city of Sharjah. Once home to traders and merchants, the historical heart is now the site of the new Chedi Al Bait (ghmhotels.com). FROM TOP: STEFAN TOMIC/ISTOCK, OBAID ALBUDOOR

MARC GOODWIN A spectacular winding road leads to the world’s longest zip line where the adrenaline-hungry can fly 2.8 kilometres at up to 150 kilometres per hour The hotel’s entrance, a narrow alley between two yellow walls, offers no hint of the tranquil rooms, restaurants, spa and shady courtyards that unfurl inside. Built around heritage buildings made of traditional reclaimed coral, the hotel is a showcase of historical Emirati architecture. Don’t miss the original circular wind tower, over a century old and the only one of its kind in the country, which still stands at a jaunty tilt. Right on the doorstep, head to Souq Al Arsa for biryani in the 60-yearold cafe and shop for treasures from across Arabia and the Silk Road. It’s a throwback to the ancient trading The Buhais Geology Park blends into the desertscape post that the city once was and an apt contrast to the showstoppingly modern Sharjah Art Foundation (sharjahart.org). Established in 2009 by Sheikha Hoor Al Qasimi to showcase works of Arab and international artists, the year-round programme includes both permanent displays and internationally relevant exhibitions, and it also hosts the Sharjah Biennial, one of the Middle East’s leading art fairs, which will hold its 15th edition in 2022. For one last jolt of excitement, point the car north and head up to Jebel Jais (visitjebeljais.com), the highest peak in the UAE. A spectacular winding road leads to the world’s longest zip line – one of the few superlatives found outside the metropolises – where the adrenalinehungry can fly 2.8 kilometres over the jagged mountains at heart-stopping speeds of up to 150 kilometres per hour. It’s an exciting reminder that this region is only just getting started when it comes to revealing itself to the world. On the horizon are a tented camp on Jebel Jais, a Moon Retreat in Mleiha, an Anantara resort on the Ras Al Khaimah coast, among many other destinations. Go soon, and explore the region before the rest of the world discovers it. DEPARTURES 39 PLEASE CHECK THE LATEST GOVERNMENT ADVICE BEFORE BOOKING TRAVEL OR DEPARTING ON ANY TRIP

DEPARTURES