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Departures Hong Kong Autumn 2016

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BLACKBOOK U R B A N P R I M E R Scene & Heard THE REBIRTH OF JUÁREZ The Mexico City neighbourhood is alive with daring cultural projects and hip new restaurants. As ANALÍA FERREYRA reports, it’s creating an unlikely refuge for lovers of the good life Milán 44’s lit-up façade; below: thought-provoking art at Marso gallery MILÁN 44 Set opposite the Museo del Chocolate, the new gourmet market inaugurated at the beginning of the year is a must for foodies, offering, among many others, baked goods from 123, ice cream from Nómada, Belgian waffles from Holly and ramen from Toshii, as well as the Ecobutik ecological shop and the Blanco Yoga boutique for yoga lovers. milan44.mx PARKER & LENOX Inspired by the speakeasies of the Prohibition era, this bar situated at the back of the Lenox restaurant is home to jazz and blues that turn back the clock. Housed in a former insurance building with no sign to indicate its existence, the clandestine interiors are elegant and pair well with excellent traditional cocktails and North American favourites, from a hamburger with bacon and maple to a powerful secret-recipe chilli. $ +52 55 5546 6979 MARSO GALERÍA ARTE CONTEMPORÁNEO Committed to providing an exhibition programme that emphasises the issues most relevant for Mexico and Latin America, the gallery, located in a beautiful classical mansion in Juárez, works with emerging contemporary artists. In addition to regular exhibitions, the project, which began life in 2012, also participates in the international art fair and biennial circuits. marso.com.mx PANADERÍA ROSETTA One of the pioneers in Juárez, the bakery founded by the chef Elena Reygadas set the trend in an area that now welcomes a new bakery every month. Its now famous “temptation cabinet” offers a space in the characterful building to The eclectic selection at Fusión; below: Havre 77’s bright interiors; below right: multihued flats from Fusión enjoy top-shelf tea and coffee together with the best pain au chocolat in the city and its magnificent ricotta cheese and cacao. $ rosetta.com.mx PAPRIKA Last year, locally lauded chef Josefina Santacruz brought her spicecentric culinary concept to Juárez and it soon became one of the city’s most prominent restaurants. Its discreet premises on Marsella street offer diners explosive flavours and a prize-worthy cocktail menu. Don’t miss the Tebas (gin, rosemary syrup, grapefruit juice and tonic water, off the menu), the ideal aperitif to whet your appetite, followed by chicken tikka, Persian meatballs and green beans with Eureka lemon. +52 55 5533 0303 FUSIÓN One of the first projects to invest in this area, this grand house is the new home for the Gurú Gallery, aimed at lovers of graphic design, of Foro 37, an intimate space for independent theatre productions, and a rotating array of Mexican design shops that have been at the heart of the project since it first began as an itinerant bazaar. Don’t miss the Gourmet Lounge and themed bazaars at the weekend. casafusion.com.mx HAVRE 77 Eduardo García (of Maximo Bistrot and Lalo fame) has joined the new wave of sophistication sweeping through the district with his French cuisine in a beautiful old house on Havre street, right in the vibrant heart of the district. In a building restored to its past grandeur with just a few cosy modern touches, the brasserie has a first-rate menu – with daily changing specials listed on the blackboard – and what might be the city’s best oyster bar. havre77.com DON’T MISS tailor-made bicycles at BE.SPOKE (bespokecyclery. cc), the finest selection of vintageinspired clothes at LOOSE BLUES (loose-blues. com) and the theatre programme at EL MILAGRO (elmilagro.org. mx), all in the heart of juárez. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: SALOMON RAMIREZ, RENE ENRIQUEZ/COOLHUNTERMX.COM, WALTER SHINTANI, © MARSO, DIANA ARNAU 30 DEPARTURES-INTERNATIONAL.COM CONTACT PLATINUM CARD SERVICE FOR BOOKINGS

Riding the surf at Big Wave Bay Out & About HONG KONG’S NATURAL APPEAL The diminutive island and its satellites offer far more than urban glitz and glamour, writes ANNE SANDOVER, who explores the natural splendour of one of the world’s most densely populated metropolises JESSICA HROMAS/GETTY IMAGES Hong Kong has certainly earned its reputation as a hedonistic wonderland, but for locals and those in the know it’s an exhilarating adventure playground as well, with nearly 75 per cent of land unspoiled countryside and 262 picturesque islands dotted around in its waters. It is on this little-known tableau that a bevy of outdoorsy pursuits beckons. Take Tai Tam, a calm, sheltered lagoon that’s a 30-minute car journey from the central business hub where enthusiasts wakeboard and wakesurf, courtesy of purveyors like Rider Philosophy (wakeboardhongkong.hk). For those who want to move under their own power, there is stand-up paddleboarding at the HK Aqua-bound Centre (aquabound.com.hk), located on the main beach of neighbouring town Stanley. A little more off-the-beaten track is Big Wave Bay, a sunny cove with consistent swells ridden by Hong Kong’s burgeoning surfing community. Arrive on the road from nearby Shek O – a laid-back seaside village with an attractive but often jam-packed beach – or via the Dragon’s Back trail, one of the best urban hikes on the globe. But don’t let the word urban fool you: the 8.5km trail meanders through lush bamboo jungle and across verdant hills before rising to a breezy ridge overlooking the D’Aguilar Peninsula and shimmering South China Sea. The more daring might consider a moonlit night hike. Strap on a head torch and tread along stage five of the MacLehose Trail towards Lion Rock. Scramble atop the granite peak and behold the twinkling lights of Kowloon. Farther afield – 45-60 minutes by car from Central – is Sai Kung in the New Territories, which is known for its beaches. Rent kayaks or paddleboards from Blue Sky Sports Club (bluesky-sc.com) then cruise off to explore hidden coves and secret beaches or head out to Sharp Island and snorkel over vibrant coral gardens. From nearby Sai Kung Country Park you can hike along stage two of the undulating MacLehose Trail to Tai Long Wan, a strip of four pristine, peaceful beaches. As you pass Ham Tin and Sai Wan, drop into the village restaurants for spicy noodles, chilled tofu desserts and frozen pineapple rings. There’s also a white-knuckle speedboat ride back to Sai Kung for those seeking a hit of adrenaline before returning to the oft-lauded attractions of the city. ♦ CONTACT PLATINUM CARD SERVICE FOR BOOKINGS DEPARTURES-INTERNATIONAL.COM 31

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