DEPARTURES TRAVEL URBAN
DEPARTURES TRAVEL URBAN PRIMER 28 Madrid on the Move Old-school elegance meets youthful charm in the bustling Spanish capital, says Lanie Goodman, who shortlists the city’s new standout hotels. A bright-pink tunnel hallway leading to the Madrid Edition’s sleekly modern lobby; top: inside the new the Royal Collections Gallery in Campo del Moro park LIKE STARS, some travel trends will explode and then fade; others, years later, re-emerge with a pulse of new energy that lights up an Old World atmosphere. And these days, Madrid is unquestionably one of those places where the “then” and the “now” has merged into a supernova destination. Nine decades ago, American expat Ernest Hemingway hailed Madrid as “the most Spanish of all cities, the best to live in, the finest people, month in and month out the finest climate”. Granted, the summer temperatures soar considerably higher than in Hem’s time, but the fun-loving lifestyle of the Madrileños and innovative gastronomic scene is back stronger than ever. However, the writer might not recognise the once-seedy Centro, where he’d order beer and a plate of shrimp, now home to big-name international brands of five-star hotels. “Years ago, if you had asked a local if this would be a luxury neighbourhood – if you’d have a Louis Vuitton next to the Puerta del Sol – they would have said ‘never’,” says Marta Centeno, director of communications at Four Seasons Hotel Madrid. “Over the last few years, the town has done a great job of restoring landmark buildings and cleaning up the area. We’re seeing a new kind of traveller who wouldn’t have considered Madrid before.” Opened in 2020, The Four Seasons Hotel Madrid ( fourseasons.com) marked one of the first radical FROM TOP: © PATRIMONIO NACIONAL, © THE MADRID EDITION
FROM TOP: © FOUR SEASONS, JOSE SALTO changes in the financial district’s cityscape and the group’s first hotel in Spain. Everything from the exquisitely restored 19th-century façade of the former Banco Español de Crédito to the cavernous two-tiered lobby, adorned with sculpted green-marble columns, a monumental staircase and a stained-glass roof, conjures Old World grandeur. Add to that deep comfort and contemporary touches, including 1,500 pieces of Spanish artwork scattered throughout the building. Highlights: the sprawling four-level wellness centre and 14m indoor pool with a skylight; for the best views in town and authentic Andalusian dishes, head to the rooftop brasserie, Dani, helmed by Michelin-starred chef Dani Garcia. Directly across the street is Madrid’s most recent stylish addition, the 139-room JW Marriott Madrid ( marriot.com), the first to open in Spain, housed in a former Belle Époque perfumery. There’s lots to admire, beginning with the elegant grey and cream lobby (whose slender wroughtiron columns are crowned with gold ornaments) and the traditional-meets-cutting-edge restaurant Qú created by the renowned Sandoval brothers. The young, friendly staff are uber-attentive, but the mood is relaxed. Along with the sleek minimalist rooms and holistic spa, the hotel is a celebration of the botanical spirit of the place, from olfactory scent-training workshops to choosing your preferred essence from tiny bottles – violet, rose, chocolate – to perfume your wardrobe. Set back on a side street from the busy Puerta del Sol square, The Madrid Edition ( editionhotels.com), opened last year, has injected some of Ian Schrager’s trademark bold minimalist modernity into Madrid’s boutique-hotel scene – it’s no wonder that the buzzy lobby cocktail bar is humming at every hour. Expect white-on-white rooms and a luxurious spa, plus two restaurants – Jerónimo, a groundfloor Mexican eatery with stunning François Champsaurdesigned interiors and the exotic rooftop, edged with lush greenery, where you dine on tasty Peruvian cuisine at Oroya, headed by chef Diego Muñoz. A highlight: nothing Right: the seasonal delicacies at Playing Solo are served kaiseki-style; above: Dani, the Four Seasons’ plantfilled rooftop brasserie; in the city quite tops the expansive outdoor pool and sweeping views from your sunbed. On Paseo de la Castellana, the busy main avenue of the upscale boutique-clogged Salamanca district, you might mistake this 1970s-built property surrounded by private gardens for a posh residential high-rise, but the moment you step inside the Rosewood Villa Magna ( rosewoodhotels. com) – reopened and prettily refurbished in 2021 – the convivial vibe and chic comfy interiors put you at ease. On the ground floor, well-heeled locals flock to Flor y Nata for tea, pastry or cocktails; come evening, dining options range from traditional specialities at Las Brasas Castellana to refined creative Northern Spanish flavours by three-Michelin star chef Jesús Sánchez at Amós. Other high points: the contemporary-style pared-down rooms and two dreamy penthouse suites, called “houses”, large enough to entertain an armada. In the same neighbourhood, Santo Mauro – A Luxury Collection Hotel ( marriott.com) is the city’s one-of-a-kind 29 DEPARTURES
