Style Etc. THE
Style Etc. THE INNOVATORS Cignana earring in silver with rough garnets Atsuko Sano The individualist Military earring in black rhodium, coated in silver and gold-plated silver Ute Decker The fair-trade advocate Truly wearable sculptures, Decker’s limited-edition creations are visually compelling works of art in which volume, space and movement coexist craftily, becoming one with the wearer. Characterised by clean lines and elements of minimalism, what sets apart the ornaments of this German-born, London-based designer is the provenance of her painstakingly crafted pieces: each is made with the finest sustainable materials, be Sano prefers to be called a jewellery producer rather than designer. The US-trained, Tokyo-based founder of the now 13-year-old label AS is in the business of breaking boundaries. “I believe every individual is defined at the outset by a set of parameters,” she says. “And with my jewellery, I try to strip away these parameters to reach their very core.” Sano’s unisex collections offer a futuristic vision of accessories that mix functionality with an offbeat, edgy interpretation of beauty: an expression of the wearer’s state of mind. Her Rin line, for example, interprets the homonymous Chinese word which means, depending on context, “harmony”, “courage” or “passion”. The hallmark of these pieces – as in her other work – is a strong sense of geometry. “We have obviously entered an age of simplification of what we wear,” she reflects. “And it becomes more and more difficult to combine flowers and natureinspired motifs with fluid lines.” as-by-atsuko-sano.com In Praise of Shadows: a limited-edition architectural ear sculpture in gold it 100 per cent recycled silver or gold sourced from a small Sotrami artisanal mining cooperative in the highlands of Peru. One of the first designers in the world to launch a line in fair-trade gold, her work has been showcased in more than 50 exhibitions around the globe and has even been included as part of the permanent collection of Museum Barbier-Mueller in Geneva, establishing Decker as an artist for the ages. utedecker.com Jennifer Saker The reformed sculptor Saker had always imagined that she would follow her father into engineering, but a passion for exploring form and shape led her to the study of sculpture, which, in turn, led to another pursuit entirely. “As my studies progressed, all the sculptures I made ended up being tiny and I was intrigued by the interaction between what I was making and the human body.” Saker launched her eponymous brand last year at Goldsmiths’ Fair in London. Her creations, which are private commissions for those “who like their jewellery to be distinctive”, reflect her artistic and professional development. She makes use of complex architectural shapes scaled to human proportions – a challenging process which requires the application of engineering principles, especially during the design process. The result? Contemporary objects in which striking, dominant lines and visual lightness comingle in perfect harmony. jennifersaker.com Saker’s gold Rogers and Farrell bangles 36 DEPARTURES-INTERNATIONAL.COM
Lynn Ban The statement maker COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS Born in Singapore and raised in New York, Ban’s penchant for melding, in her own words, “otherworldly enchantment and a distinctly downtown attitude” has brought her far from where she started in 2011. Today, her self-named brand is available in boutiques in some 17 countries around the globe, has been prominently featured in top fashion titles worldwide and has attracted a substantial celebrity following. Ban’s creations are not for the faint of heart: they are statement pieces made for strong personalities. “My customer is confident, independent and empowered,” she says. “They play by their own rules and have no fear.” Silver and black rhodium are staples in Ban’s designs Mountain lions define XiN’s Shan-Shi line, from the curved pendant to (bottom right) a pair of studs adorned with demantoids Xinran Lu The eclectic geometrist Between two points, what I can see is only a straight line,” explains Xinran Lu, whose geometric view of the world is reflected in his avant-garde creations for his London-based brand XiN. Combining Eastern philosophy and iconography with Western craft and techniques, Lu’s Matrix collection earned him a Boodles Award – only one of several accolades heaped upon the talented artist thanks to their distinctive balance between opulence and restraint. “My jewellery explores the profound fascination of the darkness and light, merging the past and the future with unapologetic abandon.” lynnban.com Clockwise from top left: inverse cuff in white diamonds and sterling silver; vibrant fivepoint gem earring with black rhodium and amethyst; edgy Vice ring with black rhodium, silver and blue sapphires since he began his career as a student at Central Saint Martins. Inspired by the study of objects and fractal dimensions, Matrix demonstrates just how elegant geometry can be. Equally sophisticated is his Shan-Shi line, in which Lu translates the bold curves of a mountain lion into rings, pendants and earrings. Each aspect of every piece is crafted from precious metals and gemstones, while the intricate design is digitally sculptured and handfinished. xinjewellery.com Lito Karakostanoglou The modern historian No anthology of contemporary jewellery would be complete without a mention of Lito – a global brand whose pieces hark back to the trends of ages past. “Geometry is everywhere in nature and really strong in all ancient cultures,” explains designer and founder Lito Karakostanoglou. “Izel, my purely geometric collection, was inspired by Mexican culture, with pieces that can stand alone or connect to each other like in a mystical puzzle.” Yet for all their historical heft, dainty lines and a supreme lightness render Lito’s accessories extremely wearable. “Especially when it comes to jewellery, most women today like to keep it simple, unique, fun, but still stylish and chic. I love the idea of jewellery that you never take off and is part of you,” explains Karakostanoglou, who travels the world in constant search of magnificent gemstones and rare materials for her pieces. lito-jewelry.com From left: yellow gold Daisy earring with white and brown diamonds; angular gold ring from the Izel collection Single yellow gold earring with white diamonds DEPARTURES-INTERNATIONAL.COM 37
