BLACKBOOK PARIS UPDATE BLACKBOOK PARIS UPDATE Clockwise from top left: a close-up of the iconic sign at Folies Pigalle, one of the formerly emblematic shows along with the Moulin Rouge; Maison Souquet’s enchanting swimming pool, and a peek inside the house-own hammam; a busy collection of Gustave-Moreau’s 19thcentury masterpieces; Lazare’s trendy interior freshly baked goodies. Across the street, Les Affranchis (5 Rue Henry Monnier; +33 1 45 26 26 30) is the place for a creative mix of flavourful classics given a modern French twist, with dishes like foie gras poached in red wine and pineapple brioche. Over at Caillebotte (8 Rue Hippolyte-Lebas; +33 1 53 20 88 70), a new tiny neo-bistro, the marketdriven family-style cuisine is served from an open-plan kitchen, concocted with fresh, ever-changing seasonal produce. An unusual bistronomic experience awaits at Le Braisenville (36 Rue Condorcet; +33 A F T E R H O U R S THE CITY OF NIGHTS Well-heeled creatives and fashionable faces have a new collection of nightspots to choose from 9 50 91 21 74), where the chef dishes up creative combos of hot and cold miniportion tasting plates (think tomatoes and burrata with watermelon and anise sorbet) in flashy 1960s decor. Adjacent to Saint -Lazare train station, the convivial bistro Lazare (lazare-paris.fr), run by three-Michelinstarred chef Eric Frechon, features a chalkboard menu of homey dishes, from perfectly roasted chicken to the chef’s signature soufflé, the Paris-Deauville. Paris’s sweet pleasures are justly renowned, and few streets in the city can The carved head of Bacchus, god of merriment, above the door of Les Bains (lesbains-paris.com) sets the tone for nocturnal delights in the city. Housed in a 130-year-old bathhouseturned-boîte in Le Marais, it comes courtesy of Denis Montel, who has also converted an Art Deco pool on the Left Bank into a Hermès boutique. Over at Laperouse (laperouse.com), a Baroque townhouse with creaky beams overlooking the Pont Neuf, the cheerfulness continues with A-listers reclining on velour chaise longues and sipping daiquiris, while at the foot of the l’Arc de Triomphe, Club de l’Arc (larc-paris. com) boasts a more rock’n’roll aesthetic as evidenced by the black marble floor and python walls, designed by Lenny Kravitz. » compete with Rue des Martyrs, a foodie haven of small speciality shops headlined by the latest addition, Mesdemoiselles Madeleines ( $ mllesmadeleines.com). Founder Steve Seremes sells the buttery shellshaped cake made famous by Proust in every possible flavour, including a savoury lemon-basil feta madeleine topped with pine nuts. Steps away, Popelini ( $ popelini. com) is ablaze with colourful bite-size puff pastries, known as chou, filled with salted caramel butter, raspberry rose cream and more. Another newcomer on the block, Marlette ( $ cafemarlette.fr), is a deeply comfortable cafe where neighbourhood regulars come for the stunning range of homemade cakes and breads. A whiff of timeless amour lingers at the Musée de la Vie Romantique (vie-romantique. paris.fr), an 1830s private hotel particulier with a tree-lined courtyard, featuring a collection of novelist George Sand’s jewellery. A short walk away, don’t miss the just-reopened Musée National Gustave Moreau (musee-moreau.fr), with a spectacular new ground floor and more than 400 works by the 19th-century master, who lived in the museum-cum-house at a time when the neighbourhood was very different indeed. ♦ Serious business: a Laperouse barman serves up absinthe in high style CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: © MAISON SOUQUET, ADRIEN DIDIERJEAN, © LA PEROUSE (2), © LAZARE, © BUVETTE 16 DEPARTURES-INTERNATIONAL.COM CONTACT PLATINUM CARD SERVICE FOR BOOKINGS
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