BLACKBOOK Villa Lumbung,
BLACKBOOK Villa Lumbung, with its eye-catching thatched roof, is raised some three metres off the ground THE GETAWAY A WORLD APART A Balinese hideaway deeply immersed in indigenous culture offers an escape like no other Teeming with pleasure seekers, its main beaches lined with manicured hotel compounds, Bali is no longer the island paradise of lore. Those who want to experience what it was like before it had its Eat, Pray, Love moment should head for the still-wild and remote eastern edge of the island, where Villa Campuhan is hidden down a dirt track outside the village of Jasri. Stepping through the carved stone gate, guests come upon a clutch of swooproofed ironwood and bamboo structures standing on a dramatic surf break with a sense of wonder. The villas – there are just six – feel timeless, and for a reason: based on traditional Minangkabau architecture, they were meticulously constructed by Sumatran craftsmen without nails or modern machinery. The real luxury is the sense of exquisite isolation: the 2.5ha property is bordered by emerald rice paddies giving on to views of sacred Mount Agung and an uninterrupted sweep of the sea. Hollywood director Rob Cohen created this place as a private holiday From left: the resort’s airy common area; the soft Balinese skyscape, as seen from Villa Campuhan; far and above right: intricate Indonesian decor at Villa Campuhan estate, furnished by interior designer Linda Garland. When Cohen’s schedule prevented him from visiting, he quietly opened a hotel. His collection of rare Balinese statues and masks, shaman’s medicine cabinets and hand-woven Timorese fabrics still decorate the guest quarters, which are raised three metres off the ground to command stunning views and catch the breezes (another nod to timelessness: there’s no A/C). Inside, king beds are soaring mosquito-netted cathedrals encased by walls of woven ebony bamboo, and rain-head showers (some with ocean views) splash down onto black volcanic stone. Dinner, of fiery Indonesian sambals and fish satay, is served at a communal table in the open-air long house, with its double staircase leading down to the infinity pool perched on the water’s edge. Surfing and massages are available on site, while visits to temples, whitewater rafting and scuba diving are all within easy reach. At the end of the day, though, you’ll be eager to retire here, with nothing but the surf as your soundtrack. From US0; villacampuhan.com ♦ THE REAL LUXURY IS THE SENSE OF EXQUISITE ISOLATION: THE 2.5HA PROPERTY IS BORDERED BY EMERALD RICE PADDIES AND AN UNINTERRUPTED SWEEP OF THE SEA CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: DJUNA IVEREIGH (4), © VILLA CAMPUHAN 26 departures-international.com CONTACT PLATINUM CARD SERVICE FOR BOOKINGS by MELINDA PAGE
