DEPARTURES 100 The
DEPARTURES 100 The cotton mill-cum-art hub Leipziger Spinnerei in Plagwitz at dusk 47 LEIPZIG’S FRESH FACE Finally recovered from its Iron Curtain malaise, Germany’s former creative capital is once again thriving Those in the know will have heard the cry echoing out from Germany’s northeast corner: Leipzig is on fire. A booming economy, a sleek new look and an intangible yet unmistakable sense of cool have media outlets proclaiming this once down-on-its-luck East German industrial city the A hanging installation in the Museum der bildenden Künste new Berlin. And it’s not just hype. Its rich literary and musical roots aside (both Goethe and Bach called Leipzig home), the city formerly known as Little Paris has over the past decade opened a new chapter in its variegated history with a slew of arts-centred outcroppings that eschew pomp and pretension and instead channel the no-frills, whatyou-see-is-whatyou-get approach the German east has long been known for. Case in point: this year, the Museum der bildenden Künste (mdbk. de) celebrates the tenth anniversary of its move into a gargantuan glasspanelled structure (a work of art in its own right) that today houses a collection comprising works from the likes of Kokoschka and Rubens as well as a number by native-son painter Neo Rauch, who despite several decades of fame both in and outside Germany is still the artist on the tip of everyone’s tongue here. Rauch is considered the father of what has since become known as the New Leipzig School, a loosely connected group of by-now middle-aged abstract and figurative artists who were trained at the local Hochschule für Grafik und Buchkunst and have found an apt home in the unpolished western quarter of Plagwitz. Set in a repurposed cotton mill, Leipziger Spinnerei (spinnerei.de) is a creative hub that encompasses some 14 galleries and a number of artist’s studios (including Rauch’s own work space, as well as the prestigious Galerie Eigen + Art that represents him). Walking through the factory, raw is the word that comes to mind: a roughhewn atmosphere paired with a pure, unsullied, accessible approach to art (visitors will catch glimpses of artists at work, printing, sculpting or sharing a beer as the day winds A porcelain sculpture by artist Claudia Biene down). While a bit of a trek from the city centre, a trip is most certainly worth the while, as is a comprehensive, guided tour of the premises (available upon request) or a coffee break or lunch at the complex’s serene beer garden. And it’s nearly impossible to go home without one of the incredibly detailed porcelain treasures which are created and sold directly on site at Porzellanatelier Claudia Biehne (biehne-porzellan.de). Back in a more urban setting sits another haven for all things art. Located in the storied Musikviertel, just opposite the picturesque Johanna Park, the Galerie für Zeitgenössische Kunst (gfzk-leipzig.de) completes a hat trick of cutting-edge arts institutions in Leipzig. Set in two buildings – a Wilhelminian villa housing a rotating semi-permanent collection of multimedia pieces by international names, and a 10-yearold exhibition space for temporary exhibitions dealing with controversial issues – the GfZK is truly a playground for creatives in a city where artistic expression was curbed for decades under the oppressive regime. What a joy to see it flourishing again. ♦ Delectable rations on the terrace of Arcona Living Bach 14's restaurant CHECKING IN Along with the Museum der bildenden Künste across the street, the city’s first fully realised boutique hotel forms an oasis of cool amid the old town’s historic grandeur. The brainchild of architect Sabine Fuchsbauer, the 20-key Hotel Fregehaus (hotel-fregehaus. de) opened earlier this year, revelling in an eclecticism emblematic of the city itself: rooms combine vintage pieces (like Murano chandeliers and imposing, gold-trimmed mirrors) with modern decor and an inviting, boardinghouse atmosphere. The three-year-old Arcona Living Bach 14 (bach14.arcona.de) capitalises on its can’t-beat location next to St Thomas Church (where Bach himself once worked as Kapelmeister) with chic, music-themed outfittings (think organ pipes and blown-up sheet music plastered on the suite walls) and a wine bar and restaurant with a terrace – the perfect place from which to tune into the many street musicians regaling culture-hungry tourists with Bach’s most famous pieces. The without question most dignified digs in the city, though, can still be found at Hotel Fürstenhof (pictured above; hotelfuerstenhofleipzig.com), a 101-year-old, 92-room haute hostelry abutting the old city centre with tradition-laden, opulent charm oozing from every corner, a Germanthemed fine-dining restaurant, an elegant wine bar and an indulgent 650sq m spa. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: JENS SCHWARZ/LAIF, MATTHIAS HAMEL, STEFAN PASSIG, HENRIKE SCHUNCK, JENS SCHWARZ/LAIF 44 DEPARTURES-INTERNATIONAL.COM CONTACT PLATINUM CARD SERVICE FOR BOOKINGS
DEPARTURES 100 NORTHERN EXPOSURE Communal kitchens and bathrooms aside, there’s much to love about a striking new back-country hut that opened in August in Northern Norway, just 60 kilometres shy of the Arctic Circle in Helgeland. Set steps from the Okstindbreen glacier (the eighth largest glacier on the Norwegian mainland) in Hemnes, Rabothytta was named after French glaciologist Charles Rabot, but is distinctly Scandinavian in design. Oslo firm Jarmund/Vigsnæs looked to the surrounding Okstindan mountains for the hut’s neutral-volume silhouette, which resembles a glacial rock and blends sharp angles and trapezoidal chimneys to mirror the topography. The neutral colour scheme of the interior is meant to be brightened by the colorful hiking gear of the 31 guests who can overnight in the hut’s seven bedrooms. Visitors are 1.5 hours by foot from the nearest road – or, during snowier times, roughly three hours on skis, when arriving there is particularly welcome. rabothytta.no 48 FROM TOP: SVEIN ARNE BRYGFIELD, © LEICA 50 HOT PROPERTY What’s old is new again 49 SNAP IT UP In honour of the 60th anniversary of its revolutionary M-system, Leica has reissued the classic M60, and fittingly stripped back the camera to the bare essentials – just four features, no display – leaving shot quality entirely in the hands of the photographer. Created by Audi Design, the 600-piece limited edition is both a collector’s item, wreathed in timeless elegance, and a sleek, simple camera that reclaims the essence of photography. leica.com Perched atop the new Otemachi Tower in Tokyo’s business district of the same name, and adjacent to the Imperial Palace, the soon-to-open AMAN TOKYO is the season’s biggest unveiling. amanresorts.com CONTACT PLATINUM CARD SERVICE FOR BOOKINGS DEPARTURES-INTERNATIONAL.COM 45
