DEPARTURES STYLE ARCTIC
DEPARTURES STYLE ARCTIC SHEEN 32 Après-ski goes disco, clockwise from top left: Balmain’s curvaceous silver and neon ski aviator, balmain.com Louis Vuitton’s golden print, tunic and leggings, louisvuitton.com Chanel’s sparkly Nordic knit, tweed pencil skirt and moonboots, chanel.com Raf Simons’s cocoon coat and cosy knit, rafsimons.com polar vortex. See also Undercover, where big Nordic knits go even over pyjamas, and Balenciaga, whose bright padded jackets are worn with metallic thighboots borrowed from medieval suits of armour. Rick Owens’s floor-length and caped padding or Marni’s literal duvet shapes might be encumbering on the slopes, but would surely keep you toasty in a snowstorm. Even designers prone to body-con shapes now advocate pulling on an outsize padded ski jacket on top, such as Jacquemus’s bright, flower-appliquéd styles or Balmain’s khaki or silver-foil spaceaviator looks which cleverly combine a full padded top with a nipped-in waist – an echo of the big jackets and stretch pants worn when skiing was first glamorous in the 1950s. Designers are developing a knack for adopting skiwear inspiration to suit their own style, often resulting in a softer approach to traditional winterwear. Louis Vuitton’s big printed jackets go over long tulle skirts or sequined tunics and white trousers tucked into boots, resulting in a look that’s more après than active. Chloé has always been boho-chic at heart, and under current sustainabilityminded designer Gabriela Hearst, this is emphasised with intricate patchworked jackets made from upcycled fabric in pleasing earthy shades. Etro’s vision is more obviously luxe, including voluptuous Nordic knits with patchwork combat trousers or oversized Paisley sweaters, beanie hats and tie-dye silk trousers in rich, sunny shades – perfect for après-ski in Cortina. Tod’s sumptuous black puffer CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: © BALMAIN, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, © CHANEL, © RAF SIMONS
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: HENRIK BLOMQVIST, © UNDERCOVER, © ETRO Dolce & Gabbana’s highoctane ski style takes inspiration from full-on hip-hop glitz jacket, meanwhile, is in buttery leather – let’s hope it’s been treated for water resistance. For others it’s the sheer colourful exuberance of showy ski style that does the trick. Milan-based designer J J Martin, founder of La DoubleJ, loves her Alpine winter weekends, and her padded jackets, glowing with distinctive vintage prints, blend function with high fashion. Kenzo mixes tonal layers of vivid colour for jackets, dungarees, leggings and wraps that work for both genders and show off a streetwear heritage. But no one does high-octane ski style better than Dolce & Gabbana, taking inspiration from full-on hip-hop glitz. In a season where colour rules at most collections, D&G is king, adding shine, iridescence and neon for good measure. The marque’s padded jackets and duvet coats are bigger, brighter and louder than anyone else’s, mixing clashing shades with monochrome, spraying whole garments with Day-Glo leopard print. Subtle it’s not – but as a rallying cry for the freedom of the slopes after the year we’ve had, it’s what fashion needs now. Ski shades, clockwise from left: La DoubleJ’s practical, beautiful mixed vintage prints, ladoublej.com Undercover’s bright, modern geometry, undercoverism.com Etro’s boho-luxe Nordic sweater and patchwork trackpants, etro.com DEPARTURES 33
