DEPARTURES TRAVEL GOOD
DEPARTURES TRAVEL GOOD LUXE 22 Here to Stay Hotel Sin Nombre Above: the courtyard at Hotel Sin Nombre in Oaxaca; left: Mexchic’s limitededition clothing and accessories THE MEXICAN CITY OF OAXACA is a mash-up of the ancient and the vanguard, where some craftspeople claim an artistic lineage of 150 generations, while others are young creators embedded in the contemporary world. The city’s newest lodging – whose moniker means “hotel with no name” – is a perfect example of the local artistic fusion, with 24 rooms, each decorated with handmade carpentry and rugs and a vegan restaurant set behind a meticulously restored 17th-century façade near the Zócalo. The property’s four partners include Elliott Bennett Coon, an artist who is also the cofounder of Gem & Bolt, which distils mezcal infused with the native damiana flower. Her top stops to shop are off the beaten track yet still accessible – all but one are within walking distance of the hotel. hotelsinnombre.com From Oaxaca to Bangkok, these stylish new hotels have the inside track on the best galleries, artisans and boutiques in town. (and Shop) COLECTIVO 1050° Set on a beautiful walkway along the city’s historic aqueduct, this small pottery workshop showcases traditional earthenware in the colours of Oaxacan clay. The pieces also support a good cause: sales help fund an initiative to maintain pottery customs throughout the state. 1050grados.com LOS BAÚLES DE JUANA CATA This gallery specialises in exquisite textiles curated by owner Remigio Mestas Revilla in a range of styles, including embroidered huipils (traditional woven blouses) and rebozos (shawls), as well as more FROM TOP: HS PHOTO, © MEXCHIC
FROM TOP: © MEZCALOTECA, STEFANO CANDITO, GUILLAUME BENOIT A special blend at Mezcaloteca, a shop and tasting room in Oaxaca modern designs. Revilla takes his role of preserving fine textile production across the Oaxacan state seriously, working with artisans to revive lost and disappearing techniques. Calle Macedonio Alcalá 403 MEXCHIC Designer Christina Hattler collaborates with Mexican artists to create limited-edition clothing, accessories and textiles using centuries-old methods. The shop, which is appointment-only, is also Hattler’s studio, so she gives visitors a glimpse of her process, whether it’s designing a fringed rebozo or a blanket inspired by the work of Sol LeWitt. mexchic.co MEZCALOTECA You can’t go to Oaxaca without picking up its native spirit, and Coon calls this purveyor of more than 100 different maguey distillates the city’s “mezcal library”. The collection highlights the many species of agave – both wild and cultivated – and a spot of education is served with every bottle or sip. mezcaloteca.com JOSÉ MENDOZA TALLER The nearby artisan village of Teotitlán del Valle is known for its wool rugs and beeswax candles. Of the many workshops there, Coon’s favourite is this atelier brimming with graphic rugs, each emblazoned with colourful arrows, stripes or traditional Huichol patterns. Prolongación de Buenavista 54 – Kevin West The art-filled JK Place Paris; below: fine art and antiques at Galerie J Kugel JK Place Paris ONE OF PARIS’S grandest new hotels has opened up in a quiet and neighbourly section of the Left Bank, hidden behind the stately façade of a former embassy on the western edge of St-Germain-des-Prés. Typical of Italy’s cult-favourite boutique brand JK Place, the 29-room property is filled with fine art and antiques, yet it still feels like home, even with its Sisley Spa, indoor pool and an outpost of the Miami Italian restaurant Casa Tua. Hotel manager Riccardo Ortogni’s shopping recommendations are all easy ambles from the discreet front door. jkplace.paris L’OFFICINE UNIVERSELLE BULY This Rue Bonaparte apothecary offers beautifying ointments and perfumes galore, but it’s the tastefully tailored service that sets it apart. Combs can be engraved with your beloved’s initials, fragrant soaps are monogrammed on demand, and the in-house calligrapher can personalise gift-wrapped parcels. buly1803.com GALERIE J KUGEL To Ortogni, this neoclassical mansion feels like an extension of the Louvre. The gallery’s antiques, dating from the medieval period to the 1850s, might include heaving motherof-pearl chandeliers and dainty 18th-century carved snuffboxes. Ortogni can facilitate VIP access to the private space for hotel guests. galeriekugel.com MOLLI A fashion brand for those who want something less predictable, Molli specialises in sophisticated women’s knitwear. Its boutique on Boulevard St-Germain is packed with chic dresses, sweaters and accessories, all designed in Paris and made in family workshops throughout France and Italy. Confused about what suits you best? Helpful staff provide unhurried, honest advice rather than pushing for a quick sale. molli.com 23 DEPARTURES
