Clockwise from far left:
Clockwise from far left: Bambou shorts, bucket hat and Carne Bollente tee from Lucy Folk; Lemlem’s Sophia belted one-piece; Ergon Mykonos’s Basilia dress and Ionnia jumpsuit, both made with 100% Greek cotton; the Sita Crochet gown by She Made Me ERGON MYKONOS The spirit of the Greek islands comes alive in every piece by the young label, which is produced across various isles. Founded by Rhodesborn Marietta Karpathiou, the brand makes use of local cotton and draws on traditional looming techniques – and incorporates motifs from both the ancient and contemporary worlds. ergonmykonos.com DEPARTURES STYLE 32 LIFE’S A BEACH When you know everything you’re wearing is handmade, those laid-back moments become even sweeter. LEMLEM Supermodel Liya Kebede returned to her native Ethiopia to resuscitate weaving techniques that date back generations. Now the brand has expanded across the continent with a Made in Africa mission. Among the varied pieces, which range from maternity essentials to rompers, the resortwear stands out for its breezy grace. lemlem.com KANDUMATHI Maldivian siblings Yasra and Yusree Jaleel, who now live in London, turned back to their archipelagic native land for inspiration when creating this swimwear company. Ideas germinate from local designers – as well as their own experiences – and are turned into watercolour paintings before being brought to life by artisans in the Maldives, Sri Lanka and beyond. kandumathi.com SHE MADE SHE The cult swimwear maker from Australia has had a global impact thanks to vintage-inspired designs – its crochet-knits partly drove the trend – as well as its slow fashion focus. Each piece is handmade in either Indonesia or India, and special attention is paid to work practices (the India workshop, for instance, is female-owned) as well as materials sourcing. shemademe.com LUCY FOLK The eponymous founder began as a jeweller – and still makes wonderful creations, particularly in gold. Recently her accessories and apparel have started to give the Australian designer a wider audience, much deserved especially for the bright, flowy robes and dresses. Her concept boutique on Bondi Beach is a must-visit on any Sydney itinerary. lucyfolk.com
ALL IMAGES COURTESY THE COMPANIES AND DESIGNERS From left: Noh Nee’s Téré dirndl; Flora midi dress from My Sleeping Gypsy FOLK FABULOUS Tradition and trend are not mutually exclusive, say these brands, which are making centuries-old crafts cool. MY SLEEPING GIPSY Founder Katya Hermann takes the vyshyvanka, an embroidered shirt common in Ukrainian folk costume, as a starting point for her vibrantly hued linen dresses, shirts and, more recently, face masks. While each design features traditional satin-stich embroidery, they draw inspiration from far and wide, from hippie culture to Dadaist art. mysleepinggypsy.com NOH NEE An homage to both their native Cameroon and their adopted hometown of Munich, sisters Marie Darouiche and Rahmée Wetterich are the inventors of the “dirndl à l’Africaine”, a garment with the traditional cut of the Bavarian folk dress, but fashioned in lusciously hued wax-print fabrics sourced on their annual trips to Africa. nohnee.com BIBI HANUM A major player in Uzbekistan’s ongoing folk revival, the women-led brand’s intricately patterned ikat fabrics, handwoven and dyed by master craftspeople in the remote Fergana Valley, form the basis for their evocative jackets, capes and clutches, many of which feature the region’s traditional suzani embroidery. bibihanum.com BALLERÌ The three siblings behind this Sorrento label have a deep familial connection to the tarantella: their great-grandfather composed prizewinning tunes to accompany the up-tempo folk dance, typically performed in the elegant flats from which Ballerì takes its inspiration. Styles range from flamboyant to subdued, and each pair is handmade in Naples. ballerisorrento.com CLARE JOHNSTON After an illustrious career creating textiles for the likes of Yves St Laurent and Bloomingdales, the Royal College of Art Emeritus Professor has struck out on her own. Each of her elaborately pattered yukata-style kimonos are oneoffs, designed, cut and curated by Johnston herself in her West London atelier. clarejohnston.com Below, from top: patchwork kimono by Clare Johnston; Ballerì’s JK ballerinas, from the Capri Collection DEPARTURES 33
