SET STYLING BY ANNA
SET STYLING BY ANNA SURBATOVICH STYLE A Cut Above For savvy men of style, brands both classic and new are offering made-to-measure services that make customisation seamless, exclusive and fun. by John Ortved. Photographs by Jamie Chung SARTORIAL INTERESTS 37 DEPARTURES
38 DEPARTURES STYLE SARTORIAL INTERESTS IT’S BEEN WELL PROVEN that the best way to stand out from the fashionable hordes is to sport something tailored perfectly – both to your physical form and your tastes. “Made-to-measure is suited to that,” says Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. “Pardon the pun.” While opportunities for customisation extend far beyond suiting, these days that’s still where the most exceptional, wardrobeimpacting offerings are found. Here, some of the best. Suits Ultimate Power Dressing at Stefano Ricci Six weeks; one or two fittings The first choice for some of the most elite gentlemen on the planet comes with the attention that only a tightly knit family business can provide. Recently, it celebrated a customer’s 1,000th order with a complimentary tuxedo. “We did the buttons with gold and diamonds,” says creative director (and Stefano’s son) Filippo Ricci. The company has 67 shops, in business capitals like London and Milan, as well as in destinations more familiar to oil barons than bankers, like Seoul and Baku, Azerbaijan. It will send tailors all over the world, and soon VIP clients will be invited to spend the night at luxe accommodations for fittings at the original Florentine atelier, where a warping machine designed by Leonardo da Vinci is still in active use for the silk passementerie – in shades once favoured by the Medici family. stefanoricci.com Unimpeachable Expertise at Anderson & Sheppard Eight to 12 weeks; at least three fittings At the legendary Savile Row tailor, it’s bespoke only. “We cut every customer his own individual pattern,” says Colin Heywood, the managing director of the 114-year-old firm whose loyal customers have included Cary Grant, Tom Ford and Prince Charles. What’s delivered is traditional care and craft (making a jacket requires thousands of stitches, each done by hand) with a slightly more modern aesthetic: higher armholes, lighter canvas, minimal padding in the shoulders. The gents are the tsars of tweed, working with top mills to develop proprietary fabrics like its glen-plaid merino from the Johnstons of Elgin mill. They make biannual visits to cities like New York, Los Angeles, Hong Kong and Seoul. anderson-sheppard.co.uk Style on Demand at Ermenegildo Zegna Four to six weeks; one fitting Zegna creates workhorse suits for the man who needs to look elegantly pulled together every day and often Shirts Turnbull & Asser Six weeks; one fitting This shirtmaker, founded in 1885, is famous for its collar – it has a slight curve over the collarbone – but what really appeals to customers is the attention to detail. Eighteen body measurements are taken at a single fitting at one of its stores in London or New York, during which clients can choose from more than 1,000 fabrics. turnbullandasser.com Charvet Five weeks; one fitting At the oldest shirtmaker in the world, colour is everything: It has over 5,000 fabrics to choose from. Charvet’s Paris-based tailors record 20 measurements at a client’s sole fitting, as well as his choice from among 80 collar options. charvet.com Pink Shirtmaker Eight weeks; one fitting The company, which has more than 80 stores worldwide, has a workshop solely for its bespoke shirting, which involves a selection of 400 fabrics. thomaspink.com into the night. The company is fully vertically integrated, “from sheep to shop”. Measurements can be taken at home, at the office, or at any Zegna store. Each year, Zegna takes on around 100 personalisation projects, which allow clients to customise their own suiting fabrics. zegna.com The Sky Is the Limit at Hermès Eight weeks; one fitting Under Véronique Nichanian, who was charged with bringing the storied house’s menswear into the modern era, much of the work is still done in the atelier at 24 Faubourg St-Honoré. In fact, 24 is the name given to the house’s most popular style of suiting – but if you prefer a look from an earlier collection, Hermès can make it. Before your fitting, during which ten points of measurement are taken, you can choose your suit’s lining from the fabrics used to make Hermès scarves. hermes.com
