PERFORMANCE PICKS
PERFORMANCE PICKS Ultra-effective elixirs for a more radiant complexion STYLE ETC. From left: Sisley’s Black Rose Skin Infusion Cream delivers fresh, glowing skin thanks to a hydrating and youth-reviving bouquet of rose, hibiscus and camelina extracts, sisley-paris.com; Rose de Mai Body Oil by French boutique brand Chantecaille harnesses the rejuvenating powers of one of the world’s rarest roses, rendering skin silky and supple, chantecaille.com; Estée Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair Eye Concentrate Synchronised Recovery launches a full-scale attack on crow’s feet and under-eye circles with a plumping hyaluronic acid formula, esteelauder.com; La Prairie’s Line Interception Power Duo night and day creams promise a wrinkle-free future by smoothing existing lines and helping prevent the formation of age- and sun-induced creases, laprairie.com; the Skin Brilliance Priming Pads by Retrouvé organically exfoliate dead skin cells with a winning mix of ingredients, including citrus extracts, witch-hazel distillate and sugar cane, retrouve.com; the Moisturising Matte Lotion by La Mer meets the seemingly paradoxical challenge of simultaneously hydrating and mattifying skin by virtue of innovative capsule science and a finely tuned blend of clay, kelp powder and sea minerals, cremedelamer.com HAIR, FACE & BODY The lightweight formula of Dead Sea Spa Magik’s Oil-Free Facial Gel allows skin to breathe, while marine minerals, salts and plant extracts boost skin radiance. hollandandbarrett. com Anthelios Invisible Fresh Mist by La Roche-Posay is a godsend for oil-prone skin, employing a NASAdeveloped molecule that absorbs up to 100 times its own weight for an anti-shine effect. laroche-posay.com 1 3 4 Sun-Kissed New balms that protect and nourish For its Body Defence Sunscreen, biotech-savvy brand Zelens pairs a water-retaining botanical complex with highperformance silica microcapsules for reduced UV absorption. zelens.com Avène’s Solaire Anti-Age SPF50’s robust recipe includes collagenreplenishing brown algae extract and a potent antioxidant for superior cell protection. avene.co.uk Shiseido WetForce Sports BB’s Superveil 360 technology ensures you’re protected from every angle – even in the water – while its flattering tint, available in three shades, accomplishes a natural, athletic look. shiseido.com GENTLEMEN’S CORNER 2 1 Givenchy Gentlemen Only; 2 Jimmy Choo Man Ice, jimmychoo.com; 3 Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue; 4 Narciso Rodriguez Bleu Noir, narcisorodriguez.com; 5 Tom Ford Oud Minérale, tomford.com; 6 Etro ManRose, etro.com; 7 Acqua di Parma Colonia Ebano, acquadiparma.com 5 6 7 The aloe vera-based C+C Vitamin Summer Location by Natura Bissé is a natural ally in the battle against the elements, restoring the healthy appearance and elasticity of sun-damaged skin. naturabisse.com COURTESY MANUFACTURERS B Y CLAUDIA ROELKE AND FARHAD HEYDARI 38 DEPARTURES-INTERNATIONAL.COM
Designer Paul Andrew in his Florence office; Salvatore Ferragamo suede sandal (below); ankle-strap platform (below right) WELL-HEELED FILLING SALVATORE’S SHOES Ferragamo’s new designer, Paul Andrew, gets to work – in the founder’s office. BY LEE MARSHALL GROOMING BY SIMONETTA PINI FIRENZE; SHOES: © FERRAGAMO Installed in a spacious corner office on the top storey of Florence’s historic Palazzo Spini Feroni, Italian fashion house Salvatore Ferragamo’s headquarters since the 1930s, shoe designer Paul Andrew is in a pensive mood as he gazes out across the Arno River. “The idea that I’m working in the space where Salvatore Ferragamo once worked and all of his creations were born … it’s pressure,” the 38-year-old confesses. Last September, the British designer was named Ferragamo’s first design director for women’s shoes. (Previously, the collections were created by a team.) The son of an upholsterer who worked for the Queen at Windsor Castle (he remembers “all of these magnificent textiles and trims coming in and out of the house”), Andrew studied at the Berkshire College of Art & Design and worked in shoes and accessories at Donna Karan for almost a decade. But it was when he launched his namesake line of women’s shoes in 2012 that the fashion world took notice. Emma Watson and Gwyneth Paltrow were photographed in Andrew’s plunging single-sole pumps, appreciating, no doubt, his focus not just on red-carpet appeal but also on comfort. That word, he says, is all about empowerment: “I hate it when I see women walking in shoes that are crippling them.” In 2014, Andrew won the CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund award, making him the first shoe designer, and the youngest brand, ever to scoop one up. This put him on the radar of the house of Ferragamo, which would soon part ways with longtime creative director Massimiliano Giornetti, who had led the men’s and women’s design teams. Andrew, it seems, has a mandate for change (at least with footwear). Upon arriving in Florence, Andrew spent days just opening boxes in the Ferragamo Museum. Inaugurated in 1995 in the basement of the company’s palazzo, the facility is also an archive of more than 15,000 Ferragamo shoes spanning a century. Andrew was overwhelmed – and impressed with the founder’s innovation. “He was using fish skins and raffia and macramé. No one had made a shoe from those materials before,” Andrew says. His own forwardthinking designs nod to Salvatore, with a handful of new models based on the founder’s famous gold column heel. They are in line with what Andrew calls his “high tech meets high craft” approach. He explains that the heels of these 2017 versions are galvanised in a car factory. Other shoes are inspired by Richard Serra’s Torqued Ellipse sculptures. Salvatore, who died in 1960 and left the empire he had created in the hands of his wife and six children, was, according to the new design director, “an innovator – and a genius.” Andrew looks down at one of his new suede ankle boots, which feature the house’s revolutionary F-heel design, patented by Salvatore in 1947. “He engaged with artisans but worked with engineers.” ♦ p h o t o g r a p h b y ANDREA FRAZETTA DEPARTURES-INTERNATIONAL.COM 39
