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Departures Middle East Autumn 2019

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DEPARTURES TRAVEL

DEPARTURES TRAVEL DISPATCH 38 The infinity pool at Amara gives way to breathtaking sea views Cyprus Now As beguiling a destination as they come, the storied Mediterranean isle is a sultry mix of ruins that speak to ancient empires and sparkling cities buttressed with sybaritic beach resorts. by Anthony Grant WHERE TO STAY Limassol, the large Cypriot port with newfound pizzazz, is a magnet for the island’s hottest new hotel properties including Parklane, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa (marriott.com). A 300m sandy beach and 10 hectares of lush gardens confer a hideaway ambience, while five restaurants and a glamforward thalassotherapy spa remind that Cyprus is a pro when it comes to sophisticated creature comforts. A brash new entrant is Amara (amarahotel.com), a five-minute drive on the same southern coast with the requisite luscious infinity pool and posh eateries that include Matsuhisa Limassol, Ristorante Locatelli and an open-air fish taverna. Both properties are top-flight Mediterranean resorts, but Amara is an entirely brand new build with a more South Beach-style tilt. One boutique property that eschews seaside glitz in favour of historic design with a modern reimagining is the Sir Paul ( sirpaulhotel. com), a listed 18th-century building and former town hall with a courtyard framed by tall stone arches; the lobby pairs an original marble staircase with a contemporary glass lift. The 22 minimalist rooms, each different, feature Coco-Mat mattresses from Greece and the genteel restaurant wins plaudits among locals for its brunch. Elsewhere, on the island’s northwestern coast near the unspoilt Akamas peninsula, the beach-chic Anassa (anassa.com), has been the standard-bearer for gracious seaside hospitality in Cyprus and the eastern Mediterranean for two decades. The villa-style accommodations are particularly indulgent. For a stay closer to Paphos, rent a luxe villa with sea views at Aphrodite Hills (aphroditehills.com). WHERE TO EAT Cyprus has strong culinary traditions grounded in its location at the crossroads of three continents – you might call its cuisine the original fusion – and rustic classics like grilled halloumi (a firm brined cheese PASCAL REYNAUD

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: GÜNTER STANDL/LAIF, MATTHEW SHAW, © MA From left: Greco- Roman ruins in Kourion; alfresco dining at Parklane’s sushi eatery Grounded in its location at the crossroads of three continents, you might call Cypriot cuisine the original fusion made from sheep’s milk and accented with thyme) now find their way into menus at contemporary spots around the island. In Paphos, the completely alfresco Notios at the Almyra resort (almyra.com) tempts not only with gorgeous sea vistas but with hybrid Japanese-Mediterranean dishes executed harmoniously – and without peer in this part of the island. In Limassol, seaside dining comes with cosmopolitan, Mykonos-style panache at Columbia Beach (columbia-beach.com); combine starters like prawns with sea bass à la plancha or heartier mains. At Limassol’s sparkling Old Port, Pier One (pierone.com.cy) showcases the Med-modern food stylings of chef Vangelis Moraitis in a bright, sun-flooded Black-angus beefburger with honey-miso bread at Ma space suspended above the water. Meanwhile, in decreasingly off-radar Larnaca, the QBlu Plaza of the new Radisson Blu Hotel is home to resolutely modern Ma (ma-restaurant.com), which has won a following for its Peruvian- Japanese fusion menu that includes the likes of salmon ceviche and yellow curry chocolate duck breast. WHAT TO DO The simple and sundry pleasures of beachside idylls in Cyprus speak for themselves – beaches around Ayia Napa are among the best – but there’s substantial cultural excitement too thanks to the island’s strategic position in antiquity. The stunning Greco-Roman amphitheatre at Kourion is set into a cliff overlooking a scenic swath of southern shore while, up the coast, Paphos is the repository of Unesco-listed in situ Roman mosaics. WHERE TO SHOP If you’re on the hunt for unique artisan objects Cyprus is a shopper’s paradise. Some of the best purveyors are found in villages; Constantinos Christou (christoumosaicart.com) does striking recreations of Byzantine mosaics with enamel, stones and gold in his atelier in the village of Kornos. Another mosaic artist in the village is George Kepolas (kepolasmosaics.com). In Lefkara you’ll find hand-sewn embroidery and Mihalakis Christou, a silversmith who makes the silver kapnistomerecha Greek Orthodox blessing ceremony sets. For sartorial flair, embroidered eveningwear shines at Mitsu Mitsu (+357 25 359291) in Limassol. DEPARTURES 39

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