DEPARTURES TRAVEL
DEPARTURES TRAVEL DISPATCH 22 Japanese, Please London’s exceptional array of new and new-look Nipponese offerings proves a connection that spans 9,000 kilometres. by Hiroko Kamagawa JAPAN IS A STUDY of contrasts – mountains and sea, order and chaos, impossibly old and incredibly new – so it’s no surprise that the British capital, which is no stranger to dramatic juxtapositions itself, now has one Clockwise from top left: the stark-white exhibition space at the cultural centre, Japan House; cherry blossoms crown the sultry bar area at Shochu Lounge at Roka; a tranquil lounge area at the Prince Akatoki of the best collections of Japanese hotels, restaurants and shops in the world spread out across the city. Take The Prince Akatoki London (theprinceakatokilondon.com), the first European property for Tokyo- based Prince Hotels and Resorts. With sophisticated minimalism at its core, the 82-room hideaway, which opened last year, also features a Washoku-inspired fusion restaurant, TOKii, and a cosy bar centred on Japanese whiskies. A few blocks away, the Nobu Hotel London Portman Square (london-portman.nobuhotels. com) is planning to open its doors this autumn, the brand’s second London hotel, joining the glam-forward institution in Shoreditch. Farther west, in Shepherd’s Bush, the eighth floor of the former BBC headquarters is home to Endo at the Rotunda (endoatrotunda.com), which has just been awarded a Michelin star. Chef Kazutoshi Endo, who was once the executive chef at Zuma, unfolds his remarkable 18-course omakase menu in a serene, panoramic dining room that features a sushi counter made from 200-year-old Hinoki wood. In contrast to Endo’s Tokyo-style offerings, two-star UMU (umurestaurant.com) brings authentic CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: © JAPAN HOUSE, BENJAMIN EAGLE, BEN CARPENTER
© KANPAI SAKE UMU brings authentic kaiseki menus to the British capital, with delicate, perfectly orchestrated flavours kaiseki menus to the British capital, with delicate, perfectly orchestrated flavours, often served with a poem created by Yoshinori Ishii, the master chef himself. The quintessential condiments of kaiseki – wasabi, yuzu and ume plums, to name a few – are not reserved only for flavoursome dishes, but also for the innovative cocktails served at Shochu Lounge at Roka on Charlotte Street (rokarestaurant.com). The bar’s moniker, shochu, is a distilled liquor that serves as an adaptable base for the inventive mixologists amid handpainted walls and flower-draped ceilings. Meanwhile, sake, Japan’s foremost beverage, has paved its way into the global culinary scene, and in Peckham, in south London, Kanpai Sake (kanpai.london) is now brewing seasonal batches of its own – and winning global awards for its distinctive full-bodied flavours. There is an on-site taproom for tasting and pairing events. In Kensington, Japan House (japanhouselondon.uk) – an allin-one cultural centre – offers curated Japanese events, shopping and exhibitions – as well as Akira, a restaurant by Akira Shimizu with a can’t-miss Japanese high tea. Those seeking the hippest of Japanese wares should head east to Momosan (momosanshop.com), a gem of tastefully showcased works by Japanese and international artists, and to Blue Mountain School (bluemountain.school), a one-of-akind store/gallery/restaurant, where Hostem Archive features original collections of Hiroki Nakamura, the founder of era-defining street fashion brand Visvim. Scattered across the city are a profusion of boutiques that often fuse Japanese and British influences, such as nostalgia-infused Katsute100 (katsute100.com), with its exceptional selection of tea and wagashi-inspired sweets; 45R (45r.jp), a beloved Japanese indigo-dyed denim label in Mayfair; and Sway Gallery (london. sway-gallery.com), which showcases Japanese artists with international recognition. Speaking of which, the most famous of Japanese contemporary artists, Yayoi Kusama, has an installation of her Infinity Mirror Rooms on display at Tate Modern (tate.org.uk) through May 2021. And if museum timetables continue as planned, two more major institutions Alfresco tipples outside Kanpai Sake will have Japan-themed exhibitions: the V&A hosts Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk (vam.ac.uk) and The Queen’s Gallery at Buckingham Palace is home to Japan: Courts and Culture (rct.uk), which fittingly examines the artistic and diplomatic connections between the British and Japanese royal and imperial families over three centuries – a cross-cultural exchange that, as London proves, is very much alive today. 23 DEPARTURES
