DEPARTURES WISH YOU DEPARTURES WISH YOU WERE HERE 30 A River tent, tucked among the jungle canopy; below; one of COMO Uma Canggu’s 12 penthouses visit the cocoa, tea, coffee and honey gardens on site. During the resort’s regular campfire events, guests toast marshmallows as a storyteller regales them with local lore, while on other nights, they can watch black-andwhite films depicting life in the area in the 1800s under the light of the stars. The accommodations were the most ambitious part of the design process. “Some years ago I developed a method in which I could build a bamboo house on a new site so that I could see the impact it would have and the sightline from building to building,” recalls Bensley. “It worked great. Much better than on paper. I adjusted the houses 25 times over a period of six months to get the site planning just right. It’s a tricky process and time consuming – but oh, so worth every second!” Of the resort’s 23 tented suites, those looking down onto the sprawling river valley yield the most spectacular views; the Lodge is the only two-bedroom accommodation. All boast a private saltwater plunge or infinity pool, and are stuffed with antiques from the personal collection of owner Suwito Gunawan, whose firm partnered with Capella to complete the project. The suites are linked by suspension bridges to the communal areas, which include a 30m saltwater pool Tents boast a private, saltwater plunge or infinity pool, and are stuffed with antiques from the owner’s personal collection as well as the three-tent Auriga spa, which takes its cues from Balinese wellness rituals; the Mads Lange dining room (named after a Danish spice trader, home to exceptional seasonal cuisine); the dinner-only Api Jiwa restaurant serving multicourse barbecue-style menus by Australian chef Matt McCool; and The Officers Tent, where canapés are served in an atmosphere redolent of an era when sofas and libraries were considered essential kit for travellers. Ultimately, Capella Ubud is about letting nature in rather than keeping the elements out. And there may be no more sonorous reveille anywhere in the world than the dawn chorus of birdsong here – a sweet melody that seems with every note to celebrate Bensley’s principle of minimal intervention. capellahotels.com Bali High Chic hotels have arrived in Canggu, a beach town on the Indonesian island’s southern shore – creating the perfect mix of world-class comforts and surfer style. YOU ONLY HAVE TO BLINK on Bali and a new rustic-but-refined boutique or clean-eating cafe pops up, its Instagram-ready wares artdirected to perfection. Canggu (pronounced Chang-goo), a town on the southern coast that’s known FROM TOP: DEWANDRA DJELANTIK, © COMO UMA CANGGU
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