DEPARTURES WISH YOU WERE HERE 32 It’s not all about the beach: the truth is that Bali’s allure stems more from its spirit than the usual clichés of sand and sea for its surf breaks, is the island’s current crucible of cool. Here, the openings are so frequent that ocean-fresh ceviche can feel almost de rigueur. Canggu’s transformation started just over a decade ago, when the cult Australian motorcycle brand Deus Ex Machina kicked off a migration from the kinetic resort town of Seminyak, a few kilometres away. Deus’s Temple of Enthusiasm, a cafe and concept store went on to inspire numerous spots – most launched by the Australian, American and European entrepreneurs who make up Canggu’s expat community. After several years in development, the 119-key COMO Uma Canggu (comohotels.com) just opened at Echo Beach – the western end of the town’s kilometre-long stretch of waterfront. It’s the big news in Canggu: the first luxury resort to upstage its traditional low-slung guesthouses, with facilities that include a stylish kids’ club and, in line with COMO’s other properties, an outstanding spa and yoga studio. The pod-shaped, three-bedroom penthouses look out at the sea and have sleek, subdued interiors, while the more Balinese-style garden rooms come with outdoor daybeds and showers. The beach town’s other standout property, the 12-room boutique From left: COMO Canggu’s Beach Club; surfers on Batu Bolong beach; below: a swimming pool at Mandala House hotel Slow (theslow.id), has a much more urban vibe. With custom-made modernist-style furniture, a perfectly curated play list and a restaurant offering small plates piled with fresh Indonesian flavours, it feels more like something you’d find in Williamsburg or Shoreditch. As you might expect from owner George Gorrow, who together with Gareth Moody founded the streetwear label Ksubi, there’s also a clothing store that carries their new menswear line, Non-Type. Hotel Tugu Bali (tugu hotels.com) was one of the first boutique properties to open in Canggu – in fact, when this quirky, artefact-filled retreat launched in 1997, its only neighbours were grazing cattle. Nowadays, it sits alongside the al fresco garden Old CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: MARTIN MORRELL, MARTIN WESTLAKE (2)
MARTIN WESTLAKE Man’s (fb.com/oldmans bali), where surfers go in search of DJ sets. Tugu has adapted to the new tempo nobly, creating the island’s most charming rooftop lounge. If you’re looking for accommodations with Ibiza-style swagger, British ex-banker Ben Jones’s five-suite holiday home, The Mandala House (themandalahousebali.com), may be more your speed. At this fully staffed property overlooking the rice fields, guests can perch on swim-up stools in one pool while looking up at their housemates splashing around in the glass-bottomed pool overhead. A common misconception about Bali is that it’s all about the beach. The truth is that the island’s allure stems more from its spirit than the usual clichés of sand and sea. Watching Balinese sunsets, however, is an island-wide ritual – and they don’t get much better than when seen from La Brisa (labrisabali.com). This multilevel lounge and restaurant was built from hundreds of old fishing boats, creating a charming shipwreck of decks and cosy corners that make the ideal perch for watching the sun set. When thoughts turn to dinner, try The Lawn (thelawncanggu.com), where Balinese dishes are given a European twist – the cauliflower purée is a must – and the open-air lounge is filled with pretty young things posing for selfies under twinkling lights and parasols. Canggu is also known for its array of trendy cafes and charming lunch spots that offer a break from the beach. One standout is The Shady Shack (fb.com/ theshadyshackbali), a clapboard hut selling vitamin-rich bowls brimming with the usual superfood suspects – but served with such imagination you could eat breakfast, lunch and dinner here for an entire week and never get bored. And if all the perfect weather demands new beachwear, there are many boutiques to browse. Serious shoppers should head to The Offering (theofferingcanggu.com), where highlights include swimwear from cool Aussie labels Aloé and Sheeka and local botanical beauty products. Nearby, the romantic, boho-inspired pieces – gauzy tunics and linen caftans – from Paris-born Bali-based designer Magali Pascal (magalipascal.com) will become warm-weather staples when you get back home. From top: a halloumi bowl at The Shady Shack; clean lines and contemporary decor at The Slow hotel DEPARTURES 33
