DEPARTURES TRAVEL ON
DEPARTURES TRAVEL ON LOCATION 24 Beacons of Culture Across Japan, communities and landscapes are finding regeneration through the power of art. WHEN THE SETOUCHI Triennale (setouchi-artfest.jp) debuted in 2010, it was immediately clear that this was hardly just another art event. Instead, it was an ambitious project that involved art but was ultimately aimed at revitalising the picturesque yet declining communities where it was held, on the islands of the Seto Inland Sea. An instant success – most of all on the island of Naoshima, which is home to several world-renowned art institutions – this winning formula is one that has, in one form or another, found success in several communities across Japan. The best-known counterparts are the Aichi Triennale (aichitriennale.jp), which conveniently runs concurrently to Setouchi in and around Nagoya, on Honshu island; the Eichigo- Tsumori Art Triennale (echigo-tsumari. jp), the oldest event of its kind; and Dogo Onsenart (dogoonsenart.com), which places contemporary works of art throughout Dogo, one of the Above: an installation view of Chiharu Shiota’s Circulating Memories at this year’s Beppu Project; top right: Yoshitomo Nara’s Fountain of Life (2001/2022), a 180cm sculpture shown at Ichinomiya FROM TOP: ©YOSHITOMO NARA, PHOTO BY MIE MORIMOTO; © CHIHARU SHIOTA
© VILLA EL CIELO ISHIGAKI country’s oldest hot-spring villages, in the outskirts of Matsuyama. In most cases, rural landmarks aren’t just backdrops. In two key venues of the most recent Aichi Triennale, Arimatsu and Ichinomiya, local history and culture played a major role. In Arimatsu, a late-Edo-period townhouse once belonging to a merchant family purveying shibori tie-dye – an industry the town has long been known for – recently hosted Aki Inomata’s remarkable Passing her a piece of cloth, a site-specific video installation that involved minomushi bagworms and local tie-dyed cloth. In Ichinomiya, meanwhile, German artist Anne Imhof’s two-channel video installation, Jester, was projected onto two large screens in a disused ice-skating rink, its themes of uncertainty aptly reflecting the state of the abandoned venue. Berlin-based Japanese installation and performance artist Chiharu Shiota showed Specimen Room from her Cell series in a former Ichinomiya nursing school, mirroring her personal experiences with cancer. She was also a leading light at the Beppu Project (beppuproject.com), where her piece, Circulating Memories, explored themes of existence and absence in two buildings in the Beppu Station area. Beppu, a town that lies at the foot of two volcanoes that boasts more than 2,800 natural springs, began inviting artists in 2005 to an event that has grown profoundly over the past 17 years, cementing the town as a mustvisit destination for art lovers. The most recent installation is Alternative- State (alternative-state.com), which was inaugurated this October by French conceptual artist Sarkis Zabunyan with his new piece, Les Anges de Beppu. The outdoor light installation illuminates at eight-second intervals – an homage by the artist to the tireless quest of the locals to turn Beppu into something more than just a remote resort town. A bird’s-eye view of Villa El Cielo Ishigaki on Okinawa’s Ishigaki Island PASTORAL IDYLLS These new rural retreats showcase the natural splendour of the Japanese countryside. Amada A subtropical island just north of Okinawa, Yoronjima’s turquoise seascape is the stunning backdrop for the environmentally minded two-bed villa. amada-yoron.com Eaufeu This newly born auberge near Komatsu is housed in a former primary school and serves up dishes reflecting the rich local terrain. eaufeu.jp Villa El Cielo Ishigaki A spacious two-bed villa on Ishigaki island in Okinawa offers a generous living space with a private pool. Roka The all-suite Japanese-style ryokan on Naoshima might well be the best base from which to explore the Setouchi art scene and its idyllic islands. roka.voyage Kimuraya Star architect Kengo Kuma has transformed a long-loved inn into a private-hire sanctuary made for indulging in Kusatsu’s famed bathing rituals. kusatsu-kimuraya.com Shiguchi Contemporary art and spacious villas converted from traditional Japanese huts are joined by the awe-inspiring nature of Niseko. shiguchi.com Okcs Goto Retreat Ray Opened in August this year, 26-key ray has ocean views from every room and easy access to the stunning beaches and landscapes of the Goto Islands. goto-ray.com 25 DEPARTURES
