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Departures Switzerland Autumn 2022

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DEPARTURES PURE

DEPARTURES PURE INDULGENCE 18 Consuming Piedmont From left: truffle hunting in Piedmont; a colourful dish from the Casa di Langa kitchen Standout hotels in the burgeoning Italian region are unlocking its culinary treasures like never before. by Brian Noone INDULGENCE IS WHY I have come to Piedmont – and why most visitors come to this Italian region that is justly renowned for its epicurean bounty – so it’s no surprise that the first topic of discussion when I arrive at Casa di Langa is food. The concierge at the 18-month-old hotel is ably prepared: in addition to personal anecdotes, she prints me a list that contains most of the area’s astonishing 31 Michelin stars, and more than two dozen other nearby spots that the on-site chef and staff recommend. Piedmont is a surprise latecomer to the world of sophisticated oenotourism, as its barolos and barbarescos, its hazelnuts and truffles, have been world renowned for decades, and the rolling hills of the Unescoenshrined region are exceptionally picturesque. The rapidly transforming hospitality scene has no greater star at the moment than Casa di Langa ( casadilanga.com), a whisper-quiet, 39-key charmer set a short drive from Alba across 42 hectares with a sprawling vineyard and kitchen garden and sufficient financial backing to see through its ambitious plans. © CASA DI LANGA (2) PLEASE CHECK THE LATEST GOVERNMENT ADVICE BEFORE BOOKING TRAVEL OR DEPARTING ON ANY TRIP

FROM TOP: TANVEER BADAL, TRYFON N. GEORGOPOULOS It follows in the footsteps of the excellent Relais San Maurizio (relaissanmaurizio.it), whose in-house restaurant boasts one of those 31 Michelin stars (and features on Langha’s list). A favourite weekend escape for both the Milanese and Torinese for decades, the 17th-century former monastery is joined by a vineyard on site here too, plus a remarkable cellar, salt-cave spa and multiple notable art installations. Two other newcomers to the region are forging a harder path: set closer to Genoa than Alba, they are aiming to be retreats sufficient in themselves – in part because there isn’t a surfeit of appealing destinations nearby. Nordelaia (nordelaia.com) crests a hilltop near the town of Cremolino in such a way that 270-degree views are available from the property, looking out across the hotel’s own steep vineyards to the rolling hills beyond, including great views from the pool and spa. The wine is fine and so are the 12 rooms – an opening mid-pandemic means it’s still finding its feet – but the kitchen is tremendous. Chef Charles Pearce brings a remarkable passion, with dishes focused on seafood and local vegetables. Adventurers to this corner of Piedmont – and you should be adventurous on your journey here, expecting dynamic discoveries rather than polished gems – should also stop by La Raia (la-raia. it), the passion project of Giorgio Rossi Cairo, with a petite hotel set on more than 180 hectares with a biodynamic farm, woodlands, vineyards and a growing circuit of art installations. The restaurant here is good, too, but I feel myself a long way from the many dozens of good restaurants near Casa di Langa – and that’s not a bad thing. The sprawling region has enough possibilities for all kinds of visitors, and the rest of the world is just beginning to discover its bounty. The Departures 10 Cuisine | Wellness | Relaxation 1 SENSEI PORCUPINE CREEK Palm Springs Only resort guests have the privilege of sampling the Sensei by Nobu dining and science-backed wellness offerings at this desert oasis, opening this autumn, sensei.com 4 FLEUR DE LOIRE Loire Valley, France Local produce reigns supreme at this diminutive new hotel by star chef (and native son) Christophe Hay – both in the dining rooms and the Sisley Spa, fleurdeloire.com 7 CALI MYKONOS Greece The reason to leave your pool villa and its jaw-dropping sea views? For the culinary stylings of Greece’s first Michelin-starred chef, Lefteris Lazarou, calimykonos.com 8 SIX SENSES CRANS-MONTANA, Switzerland Opening in December, three destination restaurants and a 2,000sq m signature spa will offer restoration for mind and body after a full day of exploring the majestic Swiss Alps, sixsenses.com 5 HABITAS SANTA TERESA Costa Rica Come for the surf, stay for the fresh fare and holistic spa therapies at a sustainable beachfront resort that lets nature take centre stage, ourhabitas.com 9 OCTANT LOUSÃ Portugal A historic palace in the wooded hills of central Portugal sets the scene for simple, honest cuisine and herbal spa pampering, octanthotels.com 2 JOALI BEING Maldives With spa spaces dotting the just-opened private island, you’re never more than arm’s reach from a sound bath, hydrotherapy hall, herbology centre or over-water meditation deck, joali.com 3 LANSERHOF Sylt, Germany Indulgent detox? It is from the vantage point of the indoor-outdoor saltwater pool hidden among the dunes of this beautiful windswept island, lanserhof.com 6 CASA CHABLÉ Riviera Maya, Mexico The Sian Ka’an biosphere is your playground, the seaside spa is your refuge, the acclaimed cuisine of Jorge Vallejo is your bliss at the forthcoming hush-hush destination, chablehotels.com 10 OSBORN HOUSE New South Wales, Australia Innovative gastronomy and bespoke spa treatments belie the charmingly rustic backdrop of this guest house in the Southern Highlands, osbornhouse.com.au 19 DEPARTURES

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