DEPARTURES PURE INDULGENCE 22 Hiking in the San Juan Mountains in Colorado with Reset Yoga in the Rockies at Telluride’s Reset retreat Sunrise yoga, hyper-local food and restorative treks: these thoughtful retreats are offering a new kind of respite. by Jemima Sissons ON THE FINAL DAY at The Ranch Italy, we share moments of “gratitude” over macadamia parmigiana and quartz-infused water (no wine glasses or espresso cups on the table here). Some have used the gruelling daily four-hour hikes through the Apennine Mountains to reflect on a job change, others on losing a person close to them or a family disagreement. Some have just enjoyed (if that’s the word) scaling these ancient hills and tuning into the melodious woodpeckers, inhaling the scent of wild lemon verbena or spotting rare orchids hidden under centuries-old beech trees. Welcome to the latest outpost of Hollywood’s Ranch Malibu (theranchmalibu.com), here set in a baroque fivestar palazzo hotel in Lazio. The weeklong programme includes a 5am wake-up call, uphill hikes, vegan fare (its Haute Hiking granola and kelp noodle alfredo with mustard rubbed broccolini and blistered cherry tomatoes make the 1,400-calorie-a-day regime easier to swallow) and further core and yoga classes every day. But people – European dynasties, investment bankers, actors (Liev Schreiber recently posted from here) and high-powered lawyers – keep coming back for more. It is the latest in the haute hiking trend. Some comment that walking is free! – however, willpower comes at a price, such as the ,000 a week premium for the new Reset in Telluride (resettelluride.com). The six-day ultra-luxury retreat set in the San Juan Mountains offers half-day treks, mental reset, restorative massages, oxygen enrichment and clean eating with a gourmet twist: breakfast on ancient grain granola with pepita, chia, quinoa, fresh berries and almond milk with post-hike fuel from fare such as falafel avocado toast with butter lettuce, heirloom tomato and cashew tzatziki. Its Roam programme is for the ultraadventurous, adding on rock-climbing or paragliding. Also in the US, Scott Dunn’s new “Perfect Pairings” Utah hiking trip (scottdunn.com), a six-day hike from Zion to Moab, through undulating and soaring terrain, with vultures, lizards, hawks and rabbits for company. On another day, sunrise pilates along the Colorado River is followed by private rafting or horseback riding alongside further walks. DIGITAL LOVE
Often referred to as the Hawaii of the Atlantic, the Portuguese island of Madeira is famed for its turquoise bays and lush subtropical terroir situated off the northwest coast of Africa that was once a destination of healing for well-to-do Victorians seeking warm air and seawater bathing. Already running a popular hiking retreat in Devon, southwest UK, Yeotown’s second programme (yeotown.com) opened last year and runs on the same principles – sunrise The Magic of Off-Season Travel WHAT TO DO WHEN WHY French Riviera Skip summer and follow those first 18th-century tourists who went to the Côte d’Azur in search of milder winters. They were really onto something. November to January Don scarf and sunglasses for a lunch of oysters and steaming bouillabaisse in one of Villefranchesur-Mer’s cheery waterfront restaurants. St Barthélemy Laidback, relaxed and friendly, lowseason St Barth reveals what made it an original Caribbean holiday hot spot. May, before hurricane season starts Snorkel with turtles in Le Sereno’s lagoon, then drive to Nikki Beach where showing up without a reservation can still secure lunch and beach space. Northern Thailand Green Season tropical downpours bring new life and energy to landscapes parched by extreme summer heat. July to September Walk with the Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation’s pachyderms as they treat the rain-soaked bamboo forests as a giant buffet. Hokkaido Winter’s deep powder snows are replaced by forests, rivers, lakes and lavenderfilled fields in summer. July and August Seasonal kaiseki cuisine is on the menu at Zaborin, an introduction to the spectacular ingredients of Japan’s northernmost island, with many foraged on the ryokan’s land. yoga, hikes through 500-year-old laurel forests traversing above cloud level and through stone waterways, known as levadas, with dips in waterfalls to cool off. This is followed by deep-tissue massages, ocean swimming and breath work before flopping onto the acacia wood sun loungers by the pool. Much food is homegrown in the fertile volcanic soil – feast on baked grape leaves with sweet potato gnocchi, reflecting on the day’s hearty achievements. Find unexpected delights at these high-powered destinations during their less-frequented months. by Nicola Chilton Northern Serengeti The Serengeti mobile camps pack up in pursuit of the Great Migration, but stay put at Asilia’s Sayari Camp for crowdfree wildlife viewing. January to March The Big Five are still around, and birders can spot migrating visitors flying down from Europe. Goa Patagonia Greek Islands Goa is magical seen through a veil of monsoon rain when the party people flee for drier climes. July to September Sip a hot masala chai and meditate on misty views of Dolphin Bay from the antiquefilled villas and serene gardens of Ahilya By The Sea. Fiery fall foliage, quieter trails, good wildlife viewing and lower prices welcome visitors venturing this far south in autumn. March to May Explora’s expeditions through the Torres del Paine National Park take in dazzling glaciers, lakes, cave paintings, guanacos and pumas. Victims of their own popularity in midsummer, the Cyclades are peaceful, calm and full of charm when the crowds leave. September Stay at the justreopened Mykonos Theoxenia for walks to the windmills, seaside coffee and shopping in Mykonos Town. “Expert, high-end travellers are looking to avoid the busiest times and peak seasons to travel to certain destinations … in order to really appreciate the best a destination has to offer. I also believe that secluded and intimate locations are going to be a new trend of travelling – of course keeping in mind that security is just as important as privacy!” Ori Kafri, founder of J.K. Place, which will open a new hotel in Milan early next year, jkplaces.com 23 DEPARTURES
