Departures United Kingdom Autumn 2013

BLACKBOOK ON THE GROUND

BLACKBOOK ON THE GROUND served up chaotic traffic and terrifically ugly architecture. I moved to Taipei in the late 1990s, fresh off a postgraduate degree. The city still seemed rough around the edges, but pockets of cool were cropping up, from quirky coffeehouses like Norwegian Wood to the always edgy IT Park Gallery. Improved public transportation, including an extensive metro system, led to better air, and green spaces were allotted throughout the city. But it was only later, after I’d moved on, that Taipei’s transformation really began gathering steam. Shabby-chic bistros moved in and Belgian beer became a menu standard. The city’s pace had somehow gone from harried to laid-back. “What changed?” I kept asking friends. How did drab, capitalist Taipei find its inner bohemian? “We’re not so anxious about catching up,” one friend offered as an explanation. Indeed, the city is now leading the way. While other Asian metropolises rush to embrace the future, Taipei is turning its attention to its past and remaking derelict factories and other industrial leftovers into cultural hubs. Take Huashan 1914 Creative Park, a 7.3ha downtown site where a defunct wine and sake distillery built by Japanese colonialists stands. Though the parcel of land is valued at around bn, city officials were persuaded to turn the space into a complex of artist studios, performance venues and galleries. Spot, an art-house cinema spearheaded by the great Creative expression is key at Grace Wang’s eatery-cum-emporium VVG Thinking WHILE OTHER ASIAN METROPOLISES RUSH TO EMBRACE THE FUTURE, TAIPEI IS TURNING ITS ATTENTION TO ITS PAST Taiwanese director Hou Hsiao-Hsien, also set up shop, while Grace Wang – the creative force behind the VVG miniempire of boutiques and restaurants – opened VVG Thinking, a two-storey, eclectic eatery-cum-emporium that personifies the city’s new spirit. (Wang also runs the best-kept secret in town: VVG BB+B, a pied-à-terre stuffed with souvenirs from her travels.) In the shadow of the iconic Taipei 101 skyscraper, young couples and families alike patronise the Sunday market at 44 South Village, a former housing estate for soldiers that is home to Good Cho, a sprawling store and café that champions local food artisans and designers, and BONA FIDE BREWS Tea plays an important role in Taiwanese society. Here, two spots that offer different takes on this local tradition Smith&Hsu This sleek teahouse near Taipei 101 offers a modern twist with English high tea – complete with clotted cream – and traditional brews. Make sure to check out the house blends, which come in attractive packages, perfect as small gifts. 33, Section 5, Zhong Xiao East Road, Xinyi District; +886 2 2747 4857; smithandhsu.com Wistaria Declared a historical site, this spot was once the residence of the Japanese governor-general of Taiwan. It later became a gathering spot for intellectuals and political dissidents. More recently, it served as a location for Ang Lee’s Eat Drink Man Woman. Regulars and visitors alike favour it for its tranquil ambience and emphasis on tradition. 1, Lane 16, Section 3, Xinsheng South Road, Da’an District; +886 2 2363 7375; wistariateahouse.com FROM TOP: © SMITH&HSU, NEIL WADE 48 departures-international.com

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