Departures United Kingdom Autumn 2018

TRAVEL THE UNEXPECTED

TRAVEL THE UNEXPECTED 30 DEPARTURES Celebrating Siem Reap The latest from the Cambodian resort town, from haute hostelries to culinary explorations. by Paul Hicks Outside the palatial Shinta Mani Angkor; below: Christian Develter’s Warp Studio WHEN YOU VENTURE to Siem Reap in deepest Cambodia, there’s no missing the majesty of Angkor Wat, the largest religious site in the world and the raison d’être for the city of nearly 200,000 residents. But increasingly, thanks to an infusion of creativity and capital, there is much more to appreciate – what was once a temple-viewing pit stop has become a destination in its own right. BEDDING DOWN A private enclave of just ten spacious duplex villas with lush gardens, private pools and smiling butler service, Shinta Mani Angkor – Bensley Collection (shintamani.com) is the latest arrival in Siem Reap, burnishing an already star-studded array that includes the colonial style Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor ( raffles.com), Amansara ( amansara.com), a conversion of the 1960s villa of King Norodom Sihanouk, and the Park Hyatt Siem Reap ( hyatt.com), which, like the Shinta Mani villas, was designed by Bill Bensley. PHOTO FIRST The best way to avoid the crowds and see the highlights at Angkor Wat is a private tour with American photographer John McDermott. He has lived in Siem Reap for more than 20 years and has photographed the temples from every angle, so he knows where to go and when to be there. You can also see his work at the McDermott Gallery (mcdermottgallery.com/raffles) at the Raffles. UP IN THE AIR For a truly jaw-dropping experience – and the only way to appreciate the vast expanse of the temple complex as well as the incredible reach of Tonlé Sap lake – try a microlight tour from Microlight Cambodia (microlightcambodia.net). The more adventurous should opt for a longer flight in a two-seater plane over the whole region. ARTISTIC EXPLORATION A tight-knit community of artists and designers have made Siem Reap their home and it’s possible to arrange visits to their homes or studios. Don’t miss Belgian contemporary artist Christian Develter’s (christiandevelter.com) cool Warp Studio set among rice fields just outside the town. The downtown One Eleven Gallery (oneelevengallery.com) is the leading showcase for local artists, while fashionistas will love the Eric Raisina Couture House (ericraisina.com), where the Madagascar-born designer offers his one-of-a-kind tropical designs for both men and women. CULINARY PROWESS Cambodian cookery is less known than other Southeast Asian cuisines – at least for now. Pou ( pourestaurant.com) presents wonderful Khmer street food in a refined atmosphere, while Cuisine Wat Damnak ( cuisine watdamnak.com) is also the only restaurant in Cambodia to have made it to the coveted Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant list. For a truly off-the-beaten-track experience, contact Siem Reap Food Tours (siemreapfoodtours.com), who have a network of clued-up local foodies. NIGHT OWLS There are plenty of places to go after dark, but locals in the know flock to Miss Wong (misswong. net) for quality cocktails in a comfortable, atmospheric environment. Otherwise, there is never a dull night when you get lost in Pub Street where cheery, friendly crowds party on until the small hours. FROM TOP: © BENSLEY COLLECTION, ANTAL GABELICS

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