BLACKBOOK For a full Rio de Janeiro destination guide go online DEPARTURES-international.com see more at STREET WE LOVE RIO’S RESURGENT RUA DO LAVRADIO Dominated by its grand 18th-century aqueduct, the bohemian neighbourhood of Lapa was once the grim preserve of the demimonde, overrun with brothels and the unsavoury patrons they attracted. But over the last few years, it has had a gradual makeover and today is speckled with cool new bars, restaurants and cultural spaces, nearly all of them strung along its main artery, Rua do Lavrádio. On the first Saturday of every month, a craft market with stalls purveying everything from handmade bags to vintage clothes sets up shop, but Lapa’s draws are strong enough to lure visitors virtually any day. Herewith, the highlights. JEMIMA SISSONS 1 A new cultural space coming soon in Praça Tiradentes, CENTRO DE REFERÊNCIA DO ARTESANATO BRASILEIRO will focus on Brazilian handicrafts, including jewellery and sacred art, displayed in a contemporary setting. Praça Tiradentes, 71; centrodoartesanato.com.br 2 One of the few traditional bakeries in Rio, PADARIA AYMORE offers customers freshly made sandwiches, delicious cakes and cavaca, a deliciously light pastry made with eggs, flour and icing sugar – all of which are consumed at marble tables where locals jostle to share gossip over super-strength coffee. Rua do Lavrádio, 7; +55 21 3852 7388 3 The newest gathering place for the artist community, CASA MOMUS has served up contemporary cuisine with a Mediterranean twist since its February debut. The brainchild of a trio of Milanese transplants, its standout rations include dishes such as pumpkin gnocchi with sage and pancetta. The space also houses revolving exhibitions, and at the moment displays the owners’ own collection, including a couple of signed Andy Warhol serigraphs and drawings by Brazilian artist Daniel Azulay. Rua do Lavrádio, 11; casamomus.com.br 4 Anchoring the Friday night festivities in Lapa, when roads are closed for a weekly street party, is RIO SCENARIUM, a huge samba club that has been a hub for years and still draws queues around the block. Either call ahead to get on the list, or be prepared for a very long wait – caiparinhas come in plastic cups and inhibitions are left at the door. Rua do Lavrádio, 20; rioscenarium. com.br Rio de Janeiro Lapa AREA OF DETAIL 5 Wonderful take-home toiletries such as 100% pure vegetable soaps and body lotions with beautiful packaging are the calling card of GRANADO. The company, which opened in 1870 in Rio and was the official pharmacist to the Brazilian royal family, now has outposts throughout the country. The jaunty yellow and blue Alfazol range and its old-fashioned powder puffs are almost too pretty to use, so stock up. Rua do Lavrádio, 32; granado.com.br 6 Mid-century furniture and contemporary pieces such as sleekly chic Joaquim Tenreiro chairs are among the bevy of furnishings on offer at ATELIÊ BELMONTE, which also features a design studio where craft items can be ordered bespoke. Rua do Lavrádio, 34; ateliebelmonte.com.br 7 The new art space from the team behind Rio Scenarium, GALERIA SCENARIUM is housed in two 19th-century buildings and shows a range of exhibitions on Brazilian art and design, including a recent one on mid-century furniture. Rua do Lavrádio, 13; +55 21 3147 9000 8 A treasure trove of cutting-edge modernist design from the 1950s to the 1980s, MERCADO MODERNO boasts pieces such as an elegant Oscar Niemeyer Rio chair from 1970 and a butter-soft Sergio Rodrigues Poltrona Mole armchair from 1957, curated by its knowledgeable owner Marcelo Vasconcellos, a font of information about the period. Rua do Lavrádio, 130; mercadomodernobrasil.com.br Lapa’s draws are strong enough to lure visitors virtually any day STAYING PUT: Set to open in February 2016 adjacent to the aqueduct, Debret Lapa (debret.com), sister to the Debret on the Copacabana, will be the first design-led hotel in the area, providing further credence to the district’s claim of being Rio’s arts centre. For now, bed down at the stunning Santa Teresa Hotel (santa-teresa-hotel.com) a short drive away. Housed in a converted coffee plantation mansion, it is an excellent base from which to explore the more bohemian side of the city. 32 departures-international.com CONTACT PLATINUM CARD SERVICE FOR BOOKINGS illustration by LEIF PARSONS
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