Explore More - 2018

82 EXPLORE MORE

82 EXPLORE MORE 2018

PORTUGAL’S RIVER OF GOLD Facing page, clockwise: Sunset in the Portuguese capital; delicious pastéis de nata or Portuguese custard tarts sleepy warmth hangs in the early afternoon air as we arrive in Lisbon, and the Portuguese capital exudes a relaxed, faded charm. Laundry hangs from exquisitely fashioned wrought iron balconies in ancient quarters crammed with hilly, winding streets shaded from the midday sun. The “White City,” as it is known, is used to welcoming strangers with open arms and carrying on with its daily business regardless. Spending a few days in the city before embarking on our river cruise on the Douro gives us the chance to fully appreciate Lisbon’s golden, crumbling beauty. Strolling past smart designer shops and superb art deco buildings on one side of the road, and a dusty flea market full of curiosities on the other, we witness a city oozing radiant and eclectic charm. Riding on one of the city’s famous yellow trams, we travel up to the Old Quarter (Bairro Alto) to discover a labyrinth of narrow alleyways populated with cozy haunts hosting live fado music, traditional restaurants, inviting tapas and wine bars, and disheveled limestone buildings with sweet hand-painted wall tiles. The following day, our enthusiastic local guide takes us on a drive around the city, pointing out the iconic buildings and important figures that have shaped the country over the centuries. From the Romans to the Spanish and the Moors, the influences on this picturesque part of the Iberian Peninsula have made for a dramatic landscape of impressive architectural styles, all brought together under a very special light that has to be experienced to be appreciated. Lisbon boasts no fewer than 28 hills, so wherever you are in the city you are guaranteed a brilliant vantage point. Belém, in the city’s western district, is our next stop—the home of Pastéis de Belém—Portugal’s best-loved sweet treat. Only custard tarts hailing from the original bakery here (where they have been made to the secret recipe of the monks of Jerónimos Monastery for centuries) can call themselves Pastéis de Belém. Elsewhere, in every village, town and city throughout Portugal, they are referred to as pastéis de nata, or just nata. Making it a personal mission to taste as many as possible throughout our trip, I can tell you that they taste just as good everywhere, especially with a sprinkling of cinnamon and confectioners’ sugar. Belém benefits from a gorgeous location overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, as well as some of Lisbon’s most iconic structures built in honor of Portugal’s Age of Discovery. Nothing quite prepares you for the gigantic, gleaming white magnificence of the Monument to the Discoveries with its lineup of dazzling, sea-facing statues depicting the country’s most celebrated explorers. Equally impressive is Jerónimos Monastery, where Portugal’s most famous explorer, Vasco da Gama, is laid to rest in a suitably ornate tomb. The historic attractions are brought to life with brilliant commentary from our guide, accessed via our supplied Quietvox tour earphones. These genius pieces of gadgetry are not only easy to use, but enable you to wander at your own pace—away from the main huddle of the group if you wish—without missing out on any of the facts or fascinating stories. After two days exploring Lisbon, we make an early start for the most eagerly anticipated part of our trip: joining our ship. Settling in to the most comfortable motor coach I have ever traveled on, we listen to our guide’s stories about the local landscape and people, and exchange tales of our Lisbon discoveries with our fellow travelers. People begin to bond, finding much more in common than current circumstances, and as a result, the atmosphere on the coach is relaxed, convivial and familiar. We are a mixed group: ages, nationalities, groups of friends, couples—even a grandfather traveling with his 20-something granddaughter. EXPLORE MORE 2018 83