Explore More Autumn 2019

From top to bottom: The

From top to bottom: The city's New Cathedral seen from the banks of Tormes River; an elaborate Moorish ceiling in Salamanca University Salamanca With some substantial history, intellectual clout and a buzzing student population in its midst, the magical city of Salamanca bridges the best of ancient and modern Spain Despite its relatively small proportions, Salamanca has long been sought after. Since the 3rd century BC, when Hannibal sieged the city and made it his westernmost outpost, it has been fought over and prized by the Romans, Visigoths, Moors, Spanish Empire, Revolutionaries, Golden Age, and now, UNESCO, who have made it a World Heritage Site. Salamanca’s honey-coloured architecture is best sampled from Plaza Mayor; go early in the day to avoid the crowds. Once you’ve perused the arcaded walkways, Town Hall and Royal Pavilion dive into the back alleys for the less lauded beauty of intricate cobbled streets. Close by, the Casa de las Muertes is the earliest example of the city’s plateresque decoration, dating back to the 16th century. As with most Spanish cities, religion is omnipresent. Salamanca’s two cathedrals are contrasting and dominant landmarks – the Gothic Catedral Nueva (New Cathedral), dating back to 1513, is the more striking, while the medieval Catedral Vieja de Santa María (Old Cathedral) offers a more atmospheric experience. Other religious sites provide some of the city’s most charming moments – the Renaissance courtyard of Convento de la Dueñas and the Palacio de la Salina stand out. Don’t miss • Salamanca’s university was one of medieval Europe’s most excellent centres of learning. Although built in the 12th and 13th centuries, the 16th-century plateresque façade is what draws the crowds. • Casa de las Conchas (House of Shells) was built by a Knight of Santiago who attached 300 carved scallop shells onto the exterior of the building in homage to the Camino de Santiago (pilgrimage walk to Santiago de Compostela). • From Patio Chico on the cathedral walls, you can see both old and new cathedrals. After taking in the view of five centuries worth of history, get in among it by climbing up the towers and parapets through Museo Ieronimus. • Museo Casa Lis houses one of Salamanca’s best art collections. Art Deco delights include kitsch sculptures and garish vases, but it’s as much the building itself that draws a crowd – there’s a vast stained-glass roof in one atrium and a beautiful ironwork and glass façade at the back of the building. Fast Facts Salamanca’s Old University has one of the world’s oldest libraries. Christopher Columbus sought approval for his journey to the West in Salamanca. There are 160,000 leather-bound volumes in the university library. Many street names are painted in a Romanesque font in blood-red paint (which used to be bulls blood). • Peruse Plaza Mayor at night when the cafés, street performers and boutiques come to life, and the ambience feels more congenial. The illumination of the surrounding buildings is spectacular. Eating & Drinking In true Spanish style, Salamanca prides itself on high-quality meat. Regional specialities include cured ham like jamón de bellota, Castilian black pudding called morcilla, and sweet and fluffy sponge biscuits known as amarguillos. EL MESON DE GONZALO ££ This traditional joint has been handed down through three generations; each perfecting the art of slow-cooked suckling lamb and patatas bravas (roasted potatoes in a spicy tomato sauce). Offering an escape from the summer heat is the stone-walled dining room. 70 VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK | AUTUMN 2019

TRAVEL CUZCO ££ Depending on your mood, at Cuzco, you can dine on simple dishes of grilled meat and fish in the restaurant, or perch at the cosy bar with plates of regional specialities (of course, there’s plenty of jamón and local red wine, too). Insider Tips PHOTOS: © ALAMY/AWL IMAGES/ISTOCK EL PECADO £££ If you fancy a break from tradition, this is the place to go. Although still very much Castilian in flavour, with fresh produce bought from the nearby Central Market, the menu, décor and clientele at El Pecado are laced with a modern flair. VALOR £ This unassuming café is possibly home to the Salamanca's best sweet treats. Close to the university, a churros and hot chocolate fix at Valor is the perfect respite from a busy day of sight-seeing in the city. DELI DELIGHTS Delicatessens sell the best cured pork in the city; load up with jamón de bellota and find a shaded picnic spot such as the Huerto de Calixto y Melibea – the prettiest of Salamanca's parks. SURPRISE SIGHTS Always look up; buildings in Salamanca have unexpectedly spectacular ceilings. The hidden Mudéjar-style ceiling in Convento de las Claras, home to a small museum, is always a favourite. SKY-HIGH WONDERS Guided night tours at Puerta de la Torre in the corner of the new cathedral are a great way to see Salamanca’s twinkling lights. Tours also include access to cathedral exhibitions. AUTUMN 2019 | VIKINGCRUISES.CO.UK 71