EXMOOR

Wrapping up the best of west Somerset and North Devon’s coast and hinterland, Exmoor is the least-visited UK national park, which is a travesty — but a boon for those who do come. Because a certain magic hangs over its pony-grazed uplands, wooded combes, sea cliffs and untamed shores — one enhanced by Exmoor’s human stories. Across the park you’ll find prehistoric standing stones and burial mounds; the ghosts of medieval settlements and remnant churches such as tiny Culbone; the echoes of ardent...