Discover Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide 2019 (issue #30)

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What’s inside 

Production credits...........................................6 

Meet our interviewees....................................8 

Trinidad 

Welcome message........................................12 

Where to stay................................................ 14 

Food & dining (Foodie Nation & 

our roundtable)..............................................18 

Shopping ......................................................24 

Arts & culture roundtable........................... 26 

Nightlife & entertainment roundtable........ 33 

Carnival roundtable...................................... 38 

Festivals roundtable......................................48 

Eco adventure with Courtenay................... 52 

Editor’s tips 

Hikes & waterfalls................................55 

Tour operators......................................55 

Turtle-watching..................................... 56 

Birding................................................... 58 

Chaguaramas........................................ 62 

Beaches................................................. 63 

Sightseeing............................................ 66 

Sports.................................................... 72 

The Marianne River, 

Blanchisseuse 

Essentials 

Trinidad maps................................................ 72 

National calendar of events........................ 82 

Getting here & getting around.................... 86 

Tips for safe and sustainable travel............89 

T&T history and society in a 

nutshell ..................................................... 90 

Tobago..................................................92 

Welcome message........................................96 

Editor’s picks: where to stay........................98 

Shopping & leisure.....................................104 

Beaches, sightseeing & waterfalls 

with Aisha ................................................... 106 

Editor’s tip: tour guides & operators........110 

Beaches & turtles........................................111 

Ocean adventures with Duane................... 112 

Birding & nature escapes...........................114 

Diving with Derek........................................ 118 

Culture & festivals with Jared................... 121 

Roundtable: the best dining & 

liming spots..................................................126 

Tobago map..................................................132

Banquet Centre

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Collared trogon 

Credits 

Editor: Caroline Taylor 

Consulting editor: Jeremy Taylor 

General manager: Halcyon Salazar 

Designer: Bridget van Dongen 

Advertising sales: Evelyn Chung 

Editorial & design assistant: 

Shelly-Ann Inniss 

Consulting designer: Kevon Webster 

Production: Jacqueline Smith 

Finance director: Joanne Mendes 

Some vectors by: Vecteezy.com 

Cover Trinidad: Harts masquerader, 

Kenya Baird, on Carnival Tuesday; 

photo by Jason Audain 

Cover Tobago: A diver spots a French 

angelfish at Japanese Gardens, Speyside; 

photo by Kadu Pinheiro 

A publication of Media & Editorial 

Projects Ltd. (MEP) 

6 Prospect Avenue, Maraval, Port of 

Spain, Trinidad & Tobago 

T: (868) 622-3821 • F: (868) 628-0639 

E: discovertnt@meppublishers.com 

W: discovertnt.com 

Intro 

This year, we invite you to discover 

both Trinidad and Tobago with the 

people who call Trinidad and Tobago 

home — the people who live, 

work, and play here. As always, we continue to 

share with you our very favourite experiences 

and things to know through our Editor’s Picks 

and Editor’s Tips. Make sure to visit us online, as 

there’s so much more we talked to our expert interviewees 

about. The full Q&As and unabridged 

interviews — plus years’ worth of articles and 

photos from past issues of Discover Trinidad & 

Tobago — are all on our website at discovertnt. 

com! 

Connect with us online: 

ISSN 1680-6166 

© 2018 Media & Editorial Projects (MEP) 

Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this 

publication may be reproduced in any 

form whatsoever without the prior written 

consent of the publisher. 

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Meet our interviewees 

Foodie Nation is a food marketing and food tourism 

company, promoting T&T through their website, videos, and 

social media. Chairman and Chief Operating Officer Shaun Alexander 

draws on his culinary background to create signature 

dishes that are posted on their website. foodienationtt.com 

Nigel Campbell is a music businessman who writes 

for newspapers and magazines, including Caribbean Beat, doing 

music reviews and covering the music business. He is a producer 

and promoter of Jazz Artists on the Greens (jaotg.com), and publishes 

Jazz in the Islands magazine (jazz.tt). 

Derek Chung became a diving instructor in 1987, 

and has done more than 12,000 dives over 34 years. He is the 

Tobago Museum Trust’s representative for Underwater Cultural 

Heritage, and runs Undersea Tobago (underseatobago.com) 

— one of the island’s premier dive centres — with his wife. 

Laura Dowrich-Phillips has been a journalist 

for over 20 years, and is currently the Regional Lifestyle 

Editor for Loop News, a regional digital news platform. She 

co-hosts the Music Matters podcast (iradiott.wordpress.com), 

which looks at the music industry in the Caribbean. 

Duane Kenny is the owner of Zoe Snorkelling Charters 

(snorkeltobago.com), Stand Up Paddle Tobago (standuppaddletobago.com), 

and villa rentals at Blue Falls Investments 

(bluefallsinvestments.com). He’s a life-long lover of the ocean, 

surfing, diving, guitar, adventure and, most of all, living in Tobago. 

Maria Nunes (marianunes.com) is a photographer 

who specialises in the documentation of cultural heritage. She’s 

deeply interested in our history, and uses her camera to have 

conversations about history — to meet people she might ordinarily 

not get to know, and to explore the diversity and complexity 

of who we are in T&T. Her book In a world of their own is 

available at bookshops, and at robertandchristopher.com. 

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Franka Philip and Ardene Sirjoo both 

enjoy developing and executing interesting creative projects. 

Their backgrounds in media and general curiosity led them to 

co-found Trini Good Media, including the podcast Talk ‘Bout 

Us and OpedTT, which curates opinion writing. Franka is an 

experienced journalist who’s worked at the BBC World Service 

and Guardian Media, and writes the Cookup column for Caribbean 

Beat. Ardene co-hosts the popular radio programme The 

Mandate on i95.5FM, is a frequent event host and moderator, 

and works with the Bocas Literary Festival as the media and 

marketing coordinator. trinigoodmedia.com 

Jared Prima is a Tobagonian actor, director, writer, 

and singer currently on a Fulbright Scholarship to pursue a 

Master’s in Film Production at Florida State University. He runs 

Triple Spade Studios, and his film work includes the awardwinning 

shorts The Witness and Redman. He is working on 

two features, Midnight Robber and La Diablesse Lives. 

Courtenay “Bush Man” Rooks has over 

25 years of eco adventure tourism experience. He founded Paria 

Springs Tours in 1993, and runs Bush Mountain (facebook.com/ 

bushmountaintt) — an eco-project that brings together his passions 

for health and conservation with trail walking, running, 

yoga, boot camp, forest bathing, rappelling, and much more. 

Penelope Spencer has worked in the entertainment 

industry for over 30 years as an actor, writer, director, 

teacher, producer, television host, and casting agent. She cohosts 

OMG Live on Facebook and The Sisterhood on TV6; and 

is the artistic director of Necessary Arts School/Productions. 

She recently completed her first children’s book with Lylah 

Persad, Tales from the forest. 

Aisha Sylvester is a digital marketer loving life in 

Tobago. She spends a lot of her free time exploring the island, 

and loves being out and about indulging in some of Tobago’s 

most authentic experiences. She shares her excursions and 

discoveries through comprehensive guides on her travel blog, 

Island Girl In-Transit (islandgirlintransit.com). 

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Welcome to the twin-island 

Republic of Trinidad & Tobago! 

Thank you for making us your destination 

of choice. No matter the 

duration of your stay, consider 

yourself an honorary citizen and 

take every opportunity to discover the treasures 

of our islands. Immerse yourself in our diverse 

culture, journey to the past through the traditions 

preserved in many of our communities, or delight 

your taste buds with menus in our fine dining 

restaurants or eclectic street food. 

At the Ministry, we understand that tourism 

offers enormous potential for successful 

national economic growth and development. To 

ensure that our country remains a key player 

in the industry, the Ministry continues to monitor 

emerging trends in international tourism. In 

addition to our well-known leisure and cultural 

offerings, we identify effective tourism niches 

for destination Trinidad & Tobago. 

Our industry is competitive and technological 

changes have an immediate impact. We 

are supporting and encouraging our tourism 

operators to ride the digital wave. From raising 

the bar on business operating standards 

and customer service to embracing digital 

transformation, destination Trinidad & Tobago 

is deepening its footprint in the international 

tourism market. 

Whether you are here to conduct business, 

enjoy international sport, rest and relax, 

or appreciate our heritage, an adventure 

awaits you. There is always something to do 

in Trinidad & Tobago. Have a safe and memorable 

stay! 

— The Ministry of Tourism 

The National Academy for the 

Performing Arts (NAPA) in Port of Spain 

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courtesy The hyatt regency trinidad 

EDITOR’S PICKS 

Where to stay 

Luxury in the capital 

The high-end hotels feature soughtafter 

amenities, like top-class restaurants 

and excellent pool, gym, 

business, and conference facilities. 

In downtown Port of Spain on the waterfront, 

the recently upgraded Hyatt Regency Trinidad 

offers views of the Gulf of Paria, a range of dining, 

a roof-top pool, and an on-site spa. The Radisson, 

just across the road, boasts a revolving restaurant 

at the top; while the Courtyard by Marriott, 

situated just west of Port of Spain, is a draw for 

business travellers who can pop into MovieTowne 

next door. The iconic Hilton Trinidad & Conference 

Centre and classy Kapok boutique hotel 

both offer superb views of the Queen’s Park Savannah. 

Out west in Chaguaramas, the CrewsInn 

Hotel & Yachting Centre brings you close to nature 

while still in striking distance of the capital. 

All rooms and suites are air conditioned and outfitted with modern facilities for your every comfort 

including internet access and direct dial telephone. Enjoy a meal at our restaurant which specialises 

in a variety of tasty Caribbean and International cuisine, or just sit back and relax at our bar and 

lounge or around our swimming pool. 

Our new building includes conference facilities as well as an ideal settingfor wedding receptions, 

cocktail parties and other special functions. Other facilities include our complimentary gym and 

business centre with email and internet access, ideally suited for business or vacation. 

We also offer special group and long term rates. 

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Southern charms 

Down south in San Fernando, Tradewinds 

has both nightly hotel and monthly residency 

options, while the charming Royal Hotel is 

located near to San Fernando Hill, and the 

Cara Suites Hotel & Conference Centre overlooks 

Claxton Bay. 

courtesy crewsinn hotel 

Gems of the east 

In the east, the Holiday Inn Express & Suites 

is five minutes from the airport, Trincity Mall, 

and a world-class golf course. Also near the 

airport are the Grand Diamond Trinidad and 

the Monte Cristo Inn. Academic visitors and 

researchers will appreciate the recent addition 

of the University Inn at the University of the 

West Indies’ campus in St Augustine. 


15

Grande Rivière is the world’s second largest nesting 

ground for endangered leatherback turtles 

Beloved boutiques, B&Bs, 

and beyond 

Among the most popular guesthouses, B&Bs, 

and self-catering options are The Allamanda 

(Woodbrook); Forty Winks Inn (Port of Spain); 

Thanna’s Place and Savannah Maison Guest 

House (Belmont); Kiskadee Korner (St Clair); 

Culture Crossroads Inn (St James); The Inn at 

87 (Newtown); Crosswinds Villa Bed & Breakfast 

(Santa Cruz); Willard’s Bed and Breakfast 

(El Dorado); and the Coblentz Inn, Heritage 

Inn, and L’Orchidée Guesthouse (Cascade). 

Green retreats & eco 

escapes 

If you want to see the stars at night, head to 

Paradise Villas (Paramin); Asa Wright Nature 

Centre (Arima-Blanchisseusse Road); Hacienda 

Jacana (Talparo); Petrea Place (Pointeà-Pierre 

Wildfowl Trust); Xanadu Resort 

(Lopinot); Pax Guesthouse (Mt St Benedict); 

Anise Resort & Spa (Sans Souci); or Acajou, 

Le Grand Almandier, and Mt Plaisir (Grande 

Rivière). 

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Located in one of the most 

convenient districts in Port of Spain. 

Everything on your doorstep, 

carnival, cricket, embassies, a 

variety of restaurants, stadium, 

churches. Quick transportation. 

Self-contained rooms and fully 

equipped studio apts. Swimming 

pool. We go the extra mile to 

ensure your comfort and safety. 

Great Comfort, 

Unbeatable Service... 

Our Hallmarks! 

Tel: (868) 622-1480, 628-0050 

email: theallamanda@yahoo.com 

www.theallamanda.com 

61 Carlos Street, Woodbrook, 

Port of Spain, Trinidad, W.I. 

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joanne husain 

Twilight at Hacienda Jacana 

tevin mills 


Escape to Grande Rivière 

17

The 

Foodie Nation 

way of life 

Foodie nation 

food marketing 

entrepreneurs 

Tell us a bit about the island’s 

culinary heritage. 

We started off with our Amerindian 

cuisine thanks to our indigenous 

peoples, followed by creole or 

Afro-Caribbean and Indian cuisines which dominate 

the island. Our culinary heritage tells the 

story of the meals created by all our country’s 

immigrants — Chinese, Middle Eastern, European, 

and so many others. 

nival 

Arts & Culture 

More foodie favourites 

Roundtable 

What makes the island’s 

food distinctive? 

Our food has key ingredients such as chadon 

beni or bandhaniya, first cousin to cilantro 

(sawtooth coriander or culantro) and pimento 

peppers, and there’s nothing like fresh pimento 

peppers. Roundtable Our island’s food is centred on the 

availability of fresh ingredients. We celebrate 

the abundance of our produce as it comes. 

Lastly, you might say, we “over-season” our 

food, but we just want you to taste it! There’s 

no “lightly seasoned with just salt and black 

pepper” in Trinidad. There must be garlic, 

chives, chadon beni, pimento peppers, hot pepper, 

and — yes — salt and black pepper. T&T’s 

food should always taste fresh and lively. 

The variety and fusions in our cuisine 

put our food and dining scene on par with the 

best in the world. Every year, our food scene 

gets more diverse and experimental. People 

are taking risks and getting creative with indigenous 

ingredients. Street food as a main 

attraction is something that has exploded, as 

it has in the rest of the world. Chefs and cooks 

are being more innovative and getting into the 

food truck and pop-up restaurant model and 

it’s exciting. 

Curry with “buss-up-shut” are a Trini staple 

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photo courtesy foodie nation TT

What local cuisine should 

both visitors and Trinis try at 

least once? 

courtesy foodie nation TT 

Doubles (pictured) is life. It might not look 

appetising, but trust us, you must have this 

street food. While you’re at it, head down 

to Debe and visit the food stalls selling not 

just doubles but golden fried East Indian 

delicacies such as saheena, baiganee, 

kachori, and aloo (potato) pies. 

Pelau: browned rice and pigeon peas 

cooked in coconut milk with chicken, beef, 

pork, or even vegetarian options. It’s 

better than any rice and peas you’ve ever 

had. 

Nick’s Channa & Cheese on Caroni 

Savannah Road: curried channa and a 

thick slice of New Zealand cheddar (or 

government cheese, as Trinis like to say) 

sandwiched in a warm dinner roll. They 

also have stewed chicken, stewed liver 

and gizzard, and chow mein sandwiches 

available. 

Bake & fish: Foodie Nation promotes 

sustainable fishing practices. So get a Maracas 

bake and fish with all the toppings 

(pineapple, lettuce, tomatoes, slaw) and all 

the sauces (chadon beni, garlic sauce, a 

touch of ketchup — because Trinis love 

ketchup), and you will make the best tasting 

sandwich ever. 

For more great street food, head to the 

food courts at the Queen’s Park Savannah 

food court (at night) and Eddie Hart 

Grounds (Tacarigua); D’Cross in San 

Fernando (at night); and St James Main 

Road to get one of the best street vendor 

rotis in Trinidad. 

EDITOR’S TIP 

About that bake & shark... 

Sharks are being unsustainably caught in 

T&T’s waters. We encourage you to try 

more sustainable alternatives with your 

bake — flying fish, mahi mahi, squid/ 

calamari, carite, tilapia, or lionfish. 

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More foodie favourites 

Roundtable 

Franka & Ardene 

journalists & media entrepreneurs 


Foodie Fiesta 

At MovieTowne, there are 

several dining options, 

including authentic Japanese 

cuisine at Kaizan 

Sushi, and international 

favourites at Zanzibar. 

They also both deliver! 

What are your favourite places to dine? 

In terms of fine dining, several restaurants set an extremely 

high standard like Chaud, Buzo, Prime, and Aioli 

around Port of Spain; and Krave in San Fernando. Other very 

good restaurants include Apsara, Town, Chaud Café (all around 

Port of Spain), and House of Chan (Curepe), as well as Adam’s 

(Maraval) for a great breakfast on a Saturday morning. For tea 

with amazing cake and pastry, visit Jardin (West Mall). For 

good and reasonably priced burgers, we highly recommend 

Burger Joint (Woodbrook) — ask for a side of cassava fries 

too. Sunday brunch at the Hyatt Regency Trinidad (Port of 

Spain) is also a great option for treating yourself. For the best 

artisan bread, a visit to Zabouca Breads (Woodbrook) is a 

must. 

courtesy buzo osteria italiano 

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What are some of our finest locally grown/produced goods, 

and where can people find them? 

For the best locally grown produce, the NAMDEVCO (The National Agricultural Marketing 

& Development Corporation) markets are our pick. You can find their locations and opening 

hours online (namdevco.com). There is also the Green Market in Santa Cruz (Saturday mornings). 

In terms of brands, Angostura’s premium rums make great gifts as well as the legendary 

bitters. For cocoa, there’s a lot to choose from — Cocobel, Sun Eaters, Gran Couva come to mind 

immediately. Pepper sauce — Bertie’s is best in class. 

courtesy green market santa cruz 

Cocoa and cocoa products on sale at the Green Market 

Laura 

lifestyle journalist & editor 

My list of faves — Bertie’s pepper and pimento sauces; Twigs 

Natural tea; Gourmet Pop popcorn; 11 Degrees North sorrel wine; 

local chocolates (Cocobel, Brasso Seco, Bushe, and Cush Machel 

Montano); Angostura Bitters; CGA flavoured coconut oils; and anything 

from Karibbean Flavours. 


23

Shopping 

& Leisure 

chris anderson 

re to stay 

Non-stop shopping 

You can buy just about anything here: from distinctive 

locally hand-crafted souvenirs, to top international 

brands in fashion, jewellery, electronics, cars, and 

gourmet food. If you can’t find it in one of the major malls (Long 

Circular, The Falls at West Mall, Trincity, Gulf City, Grand 

Bazaar, C3 Centre, South Park Shopping Centre, Centre 

Pointe Mall, Centre City Mall), it’s sure to be in one of the many 

plazas (the older ones are Ellerslie Plaza, Price Plaza and 

MovieTowne Mall) or specialty shops. For local art, craft, food, 

fashion and accessories, check out the artisan markets (San 

Antonio Green Market in Santa Cruz, and UpMarket at the 

Woodbrook Youth Centre). 

Fresh fruit and vegetables 

are available at markets like 

the Arima market 

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Diego Martin 

Port of Spain 

San Juan 

Tunapuna 

Arima 

Sangre Grande 

Chaguanas 

Couva 

San Fernando 

Rio Claro 

Princes Town 

Mayaro 

Point Fortin 

Penal 

Siparia 


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Arts & Culture 

Roundtable 

Nigel 

music journalist & businessman 

This country’s ability to assimilate every- 

foodie favourites 

thing and everybody that lived and still live here 

has allowed for evolution of music that drives 

island festivals, parties, and allows for a new direction 

in some popular music. 

Calypso (or kaiso) is the musical response 

of African-Caribbean people to slavery, emancipation 

and colonialism. Once it was recorded for 

consumer uptake (1912, five years before jazz), 

it signalled the growth of the sound of the Caribbean, 

and ultimately of Trinidad-styled carnivals 

worldwide. Soca (a mash-up of Indian- and African-Caribbean 

musical impulses, named by one 

originator, Lord Shorty, as sokah) has for the 

Elon Trotman 

at JAOTG 

Music 

Tell us a bit about the island’s musical 

heritage and landscape. 

last 50 years been the driving force of Carnival. 

The steelpan, born during the WWII 

years, transformed “found” metal dustbins and 

discarded oil drums into polyphonic musical instruments. 

That sound drives fervent fans into a 

frenzy when performed at its orchestral best at 

carnivals and music festivals. 

Today, fusion with Latin beats and Indian 

rhythms has enhanced the pool of musical forms 

unique in the Caribbean. That soca beat is now 

invading electronic dance music (EDM) and pop 

music being produced by the children of diaspora 

in cities in Canada and the USA, and there 

are independent souls making island folk, rock, 

calypso jazz, tropical pop, and CDM (Caribbean 

dance music). 

courtesy jazz artists on the greens (JAOTG) 

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For live music experiences, 

what are some of the names to 

look out for? 

You could make the case that these islands 

are the Caribbean music capital. The 

spread of genres mean there is something for 

most — clubs, festivals, concerts both mammoth 

and intimate. 

Music in T&T has “seasons”. During 

Carnival (Boxing Day until Ash Wednesday), 

soca reigns. The week before Carnival sees 

the most significant events — including over 

50 fetes. Listen out for Bunji Garlin, Fay-Ann 

Lyons (the soca First Couple); Voice, the new 

generation’s leading artist and three-time winner 

of Soca Monarch. Calypso tents still hold 

a place for understanding the roots of calypso 

as social commentary and reportage of scandal, 

obsessions, and life here. 

The “centre season” (post-Carnival) is 

where jazz festivals, reggae, opera festivals 

abound. Jazz Artists on the Greens kicks off 

the short jazz season, which culminates with the 

Tobago Jazz Experience in the last weekend 

of April. Elan Parle, Clifford Charles, Theron 

Shaw star among a recent generation of artists. 

Clive Zanda, a pioneer in kaiso-jazz fusion, 

is still a standing icon. Many top musicians are 

resident overseas: Etienne Charles, Leon Foster 

Thomas, David “Happy” Williams. 

Lastly, there’s Christmas for choral and 

parang music, where leading choral groups 

deliver annual Christmas shows — the 

Marionettes Chorale, the Lydians, the Love 

Movement. Parang, music from the old Venezuelan 

tradition, signals the Trinidadian experience 

of the season. The fusion genre of parang-soca 

serves as the musical fuel for endless liming 

and drinking and conviviality. Scrunter, Crazy, 

Kenny J, and Relator are key figures. 

Pennie 

actor, educator & TV host 

Musicians I appreciate include 

3canal for their cutting edge 

rapso style, thought-provoking and 

catchy music; Vaughnette Bigford 

and Bri Celestine — their mellow 

voices can hook you in; the intoxicating 

Mavis John; Machel Montano, Bunji 

Garlin, and Olatunji. Their work speaks 

to me — Olatunji’s mix of traditional soca 

and African beats are to die for. 

Voice performs at Dimanche Gras 

RAPSO IMAGING 


27

Fashion 

Which designers do you think 

are the most distinctive? 

Shari Cumberbatch 

courtesty shop shari 

Laura 


I love the work of Shop Shari and Loud 

by Afiya with their distinctive use of prints and 

colour. Charu Lochan Dass, trading as CLD, 

creates elegant and sophisticated outfits. 

Christian Boucaud caters to the plus size market 

in her portfolio. Lisa Sarjeant-Gonzales 

(Lisa Faye) creates beautiful hand-dyed caftans 

and free-flowing gowns in silk. For swimwear, 

Rebel is super sexy, and TROPIX by 

Keisha Als plays around with different fabric 

and designs that stand out. For original jewellery, 

see Rachel Rochford, Bene Caribe, Cocoa 

Vintage and Shop Shari. 

Courtesy Lisa Faye 


More names to look out for 

Clothing designs by Ecliff Elie, Adrian Foster, 

Heather Jones, K2K, the Lush Kingdom, 

Meiling, Claudia Pegus, The Cloth, 

and the Wadada Movement; and hand-crafted 

jewellery from Chris Anderson, Gillian 

Bishop, Janice Derrick, Akilah Jaramogi, 

Barbara Jardine, Rachel Ross, and Jasmine 

Thomas-Girvan. Also check out Dreamstones 

for silver and gemstone jewellery 

from a range of international designers. 

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Literature 

Who are some of the local 

authors that you recommend? 


journalists & media entrepreneurs 

Barbara Jenkins, Shivanee Ramlochan, 

Kevin Jared Hosein, Lisa Allen-Agostini, and 

Danielle Boodoo-Fortuné are fiction writers at the 

forefront of a new dawn in T&T literature. Judy 

Raymond is a writer of non-fiction who is an asset 

to the genre. Maria Nunes is dedicated to capturing 

the best of traditional mas — her photos of 

fancy sailors are beyond brilliant. 

Laura 


For children’s books, see Aarti Gosine’s 

Her Magic Caves; Jeunanne Alkins’ Hatch; 

Machel Montano’s Boy Boy & the Magic Pan. 

Maria Nunes’ debut book, In a World of their 

Own: Carnival Dreamers & Makers, perfectly 

captures the passion embodied in those who 

are preserving our traditional mas. Aliyah 

Eniath’s The Yard is probably the first book by 

a Caribbean author to centre on the life of a 

Muslim family navigating life in the Caribbean. 

Very compelling. The late Angelo Bissessarsingh’s 

A Walk Back in Time, Walking with the 

Ancestors, and Bridges of Trinidad & Tobago 

perfectly captures our history. Among the 

classics, I favour VS Naipaul’s earlier work 

based on life in T&T — they are hilarious and 

timeless and scarily in many ways still resemble 

life today. Michael Anthony has written 

several books, but if you are yet to read Green 

Days by the River, get this. Sam Selvon’s 

Lonely Londoners is a classic everyone ought 

to read. 

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Visual arts 

Which artists and venues should people look out for? 

Laura: The local art scene is a vibrant one. The Art 

Society based in St Clair hosts a number of exhibitions and 

pop-up shops. Horizons Art Gallery, Medulla Art Gallery, 101 

Art Gallery, Y Art Gallery, and Uncorked Wine Shop are good 

places to view local art. 

Pennie: I love 

Che Lovelace and Ashraph 

Ramsaran’s artwork — I love 

the vivid colours and textures 

and the boldness of their 

pieces. 

Feel At Home (2018, pen and ink watercolour, 

7.5” x 5.5”), by Shalini Seereeram 


More top artists 

Isaiah Boodhoo, Edward Bowen, Carlisle 

Chang, Leroy Clarke, Chris Cozier, Ken 

Crichlow, Jackie Hinkson, Paul Llanos, Dermot 

Louison, Shastri Maharaj, Wendy Nanan, 

Lisa O’Connor, Shalini Seereeram, Peter 

Sheppard, Irénée Shaw, Sundiata, Jasmine 

Thomas-Girvan, and the late Michel-Jean 

Cazabon, Pat Bishop, and Boscoe Holder. 

Franka & Ardene: Some 

names art lovers should note are Halcian 

Pierre, Ozzy Merrick, LeRoy Clarke, Brianna 

McCarthy, Sarah Burrows, Marielle Barrow, 

Che Lovelace, and Sabrina Charran. 


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Theatre 

What can people expect from Trinidad’s theatre scene? 

Pennie: The theatre scene boasts a mixture of genres — from farces to drama, 

historical to comedy. The main venues are Central Bank Auditorium and Queen’s Hall (Port of 

Spain); Naparima Bowl (San Fernando); CLR James Auditorium (Valsayn); and National Academy 

for the Performing Arts (NAPA) north and south. 

karen johnstone courtesy coco dance festival 

Do you have any favourite 

plays, playwrights, producers? 

RS/RR Productions; Raymond Choo 

Kong Productions; the Creative Arts Centre up 

at UWI; the Trinidad Theatre Workshop, which 

was headed by Nobel Laureate Derek Walcott 

and continues with small dinner theatre productions. 

I love Tony Hall, Derek Walcott, Earl 

Lovelace, Richard Ragoobarsingh as playwrights. 


Dance 

Keeping traditions alive (or creating 

new ones), local schools and 

dance companies present shows in 

a range of styles — regional folk, 

ballet, jazz, modern, and Indian classical, 

plus experimental multi-media 

productions — at many of the same 

venues as Pennie listed for theatre. 

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Nightlife & Entertainment 

Roundtable 

A jab jab entertains the crowd 

at Fiesta Plaza, MovieTowne 

courtesy movietowne 

My favourite spots are Drink Lounge & Bistro; Fiesta 

Plaza at MovieTowne; and Frankie’s (all around Port of Spain). 

The Big Black Box has some form of entertainment on most 

weekends — parties, readings, workshops, shows, right in the 

heart of Woodbrook. 

Pennie 


discovertnt.com 33

courtesy cspot sip n paint studio 

courtesy uncorked 

Laura 


At Uncorked (Port of Spain), you can purchase a bottle 

and enjoy it in-house with friends. They also support local artists 

with an exhibition every month by a different artist. CSpot Sip n 

Paint studio (St Clair) provides a fantastic way to enjoy an evening 

with friends, painting and connecting over cocktails. Drink 

Lounge & Bistro (Woodbrook) is one of my favourite hangouts 

too. It’s a joint where many creatives hang out, and they serve 

the most amazing meatballs and sangria. I also love hanging out 

at Kaiso Blues Café (Port of Spain) because they are a haven for 

live music in a very intimate atmosphere. 

34 

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Nigel 



More popular 

liming spots 

Around Port of Spain: 51° 

Lounge; HAZE; Luce; More 

Vino; Old Havana Lounge; 

Paprika Bistro; Queen’s Park 

Oval; Sails (Chaguaramas); 

Smokey & Bunty; Studio 

Lounge; Trotters; Tzar 

Nightlife; Vas Lounge; and 

Zanzibar 

Heading east: Trevor’s Edge 

(St Augustine) 

Around San Fernando: Club 

Next; Hi RPM; and Privé. 

Port of Spain, the capital city, has been targeted as 

a must-do in the Caribbean. It has an energy that resonates 

throughout the year. The Ariapita Avenue strip in Woodbrook 

boasts a mile of bars, eating places, and a few live 

venues that come to life in a huge way on weekends. Kaiso 

Blues Café, near downtown Port of Spain hotels, is the 

premier space for intimate live performances from a wide 

range of genres. 

Restaurants and bars at One Woodbrook Place offer 

an urban oasis of sophisticated nightlife. Increasingly, the 

casino (or members club) is showcasing popular and 

prominent performers. Island Club Casino in Grand Bazaar 

(Valsayn) has become a new hotspot for live music. Woodford 

Café (Chaguanas) offers live performances in music 

genres outside of soca, and Space La Nouba and Sting 

Nightclub (around San Fernando) are major hotspots. 

Melinda Nagy/shutterstock.com 

36 

discovertnt.com

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Local & international DJs 

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Members Clubs in: 

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Chaguanas 

San Fernando 

Next nightclub, San Fernando 

www.worldofprincess.com 

info@worldofprincess.com

Carnival 

Roundtable 

maria 

Photographer & Cultural Activist 

Arts & 

Roundtable 

Carnival is so multi-faceted — it is experienced in so many ways, and means such different 

things to different people. Many limit their experience to just the party element, but there’s so 

much more to Carnival. For me, it is about an indescribable energy, a spirit that’s somehow in our 

DNA. The heart and soul of Carnival come to their fullest expression in the street on Carnival 

Monday and Tuesday. Taking over the street is an essential part of the experience. You get to release 

so much through the music, through the rituals. If you’re willing to really let go, it’s truly 

cathartic. 

The perfect itinerary 

More foodie favou 

Roundtable 

There is so much to experience in such a short amount 

of time. The intensity ramps up two weeks before Carnival with 

Panorama semis. The atmosphere on what we call the drag or 

the track, where the bands practise and play their final warm 

up before they go on stage, is such a wonderful way to get 

close to the pans and the players. It’s special. The Wednesday 

after pan semis, head to the St James Amphitheatre for the 

Traditional Mas competition. It’s free and it’s a great event for 

children. I’d recommend going to the stickfighting preliminaries, 

which take place in locations like Moruga. 

The week before Carnival: 

The Old Yard: UWI 

Creative Arts, St Augustine 

(two Sundays before 

Carnival) 

Traditional Mas 

Competition: Woodbrook 

(Wednesday) 

Stickfighting Finals 

Kambule Riots 

re-enactment (or 

Canboulay): Piccadilly 

Greens (Carnival Friday) 

Dragon Festival: Port of 

Spain (Carnival Friday) 

Junior Carnival Parade: 

Port of Spain (Carnival 

Saturday) 

Blue Devil Competition: 

Paramin (Carnival 

Monday). 

chad lue loy 

Stickfighting 

38 

discovertnt.com

jason audain 

Nigel 


“Trinidad Carnival is not a spectator sport but a series 

of participatory events.” That is the first lesson to be a Carnival 

explorer. For starters, get here early, at least a week before 

Carnival Monday and Tuesday. The first rite of passage is the 

panyard crawl, where a moving audience samples sessions of 

performance and rote learning in preparation for the Panorama 

competition. Then: 

Stickfighting finals 

(typically the Wednesday 

before Carnival): this 

combative display also 

showcases the precursor to 

steelband music, the tamboo 

bamboo bands, and the 

chantuelles chanting in the 

gayelle. 

On that same night, the traditional 

individual Carnival 

characters compete in Port 

of Spain. This is what mas 

was before the invasion of 

bikinis, beads, and feathers. 

These events are miles 

apart, so choose wisely! 

The re-enactment of the 

Canboulay Riots is a 

historical street theatre 

production early on Carnival 

Friday that approximates 

a critical incident that was 

the catalyst for the recognition 

by the society that 

Carnival was here to stay. 

On Carnival Monday evening, 

in the hills of Paramin, 

the blue devils have their 

parade. Walk with some 

dollars and prepared to get 

painted — or scared. 

Carnival Monday, one 

could opt to move away 

from Port of Spain and 

A fancy sailor competes at the 

traditional mas competition 

(Adam Smith Square) 


discover more than 50 

masquerades throughout 

the island that maintain 

traditions more than a 

century old. 

39

It should look 

something like this: 

visits to pan yards 

and mas camps 

Pennie (Phase II pan yard is a 

actor, educator & TV host must); the Old Yard 

(where you get to experience 

and interact with Trinbago ole time 

mas characters); a 3canal show; Panorama 

semis; Ladies Night Out; at least one all-inclusive 

party; J’Ouvert with 3canal; and Tuesday 

mas with Exodus steelband and Peter Minshall 

or with K2K (medium bands); or with Lost 

Tribe or Fantasy (large bands). 


journalists & media 

entrepreneurs 

Stickfighting; 3canal show; calypso 

category competitions (extempo, social 

commentary, most humorous etc.); traditional 

characters competitions and parades; 

Carnival Kings & Queens competition; pan 

yards; and Panorama finals. 

The Old Yard 

Jason audain 

40 

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Invaders Steel Orchestra 

performs at Panorama 

edison boodoosingh 


41

J’Ouvert 

Maria: There’s something indescribable about the 

J’Ouvert tradition of covering your entire body in mud and 

heading out into the street with a steelband or a rhythm section 

at 4am. Everyone should experience it at least once in that 

traditional form. It’s truly a ritual of renewal. 

Nigel: Mud, oil, and 

a pair of throw-away sneakers 

are a necessary part of the 

ritual. And plenty water. Chipping 

to music until sunrise is 

not for the weak of heart, but a 

necessary elixir to understand 

the Carnival. 

3Canal J’Ouvert 

elLiot francois 

Franka & Ardene: Options are 

endless, but it depends on the experience you’re 

after. If you’re looking for an all-inclusive road party 

in the dark with paint, check out Dirty Dozen (a 

younger crowd); Cocoa Devils (more mature crown); 

Friends for the Road (mixed ages). For something a 

little more raw, traditional, dutty, with a mix of live 

and DJ music plus rhythm truck — and if you care 

to cross the big Savannah stage in all your painted 

glory — definitely try 3canal. Walk with cash to 

patronise road-side vendors! 

Pennie: Definitely, 

3canal J’Ouvert is the best — safe 

and very creative. The band takes 

off from Woodbrook with live 

music, a rhythm section, and DJ 

music. This band doesn’t venture 

into the city, which I love … If 

you’re into pan music, Phase II 

steelband has a wonderful 

J’Ouvert experience with a mature 

crowd and mellow vibes while 

chipping to pan. 

42 

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apso imgaging 

rapso imgaging imaging 

Masqueraders from K2K Alliance & 

Partners, Medium Band of the Year 

(above), and Minshall Mas with Exodus 

Steel Orchestra (below) cross the 

Savannah stage on Carnival Tuesday 


43

Kaisokah moko jumbies

jason audain

The best fetes — for 

Carnival & year round 

Nigel: Carnival fetes come in three 

categories: the high value all-inclusive; the 

young people cooler fete and its cousin the 

breakfast party; and the general mass-market 

public fete. The Hyatt LIME is a pick for 

the all-inclusive set. Soaka in Chaguaramas is 

becoming the de facto standout breakfast 

cooler fete. Army Fete, the safest party for 

Carnival, has all the best soca singers and 

serves all people as value for money. And did 

I say it was safe — the Army is literally the 

security! As a precursor to Carnival, the 

bands are now launching the next year’s 

presentations as early as July. Among the 

best opportunities is the Festival of the Bands 

from TRIBE Carnival. 

Machel Montano performs at 

Tribe Ignite 

Laura 


46 

courtesy lime.tt 


It depends on a person’s taste, age, and 

budget. If you are looking for a swanky allinclusive 

experience, any of the school fetes 

such as Fete with the Saints, Fatima All- 

Inclusive, and Presentation College’s PREStige 

are definite must-dos — plus, the money raised 

goes to the schools. Hyatt LIME, Beach House, 

Soca Brainwash, KAIRI People’s Different, and 

Fall Out are quality all-inclusives during 

Carnival week. Early morning breakfast fetes 

such as AM Bush, Soaka, Black to Blue, Jam 

Nation, Breakfast Is, and Vale Vibe are high on 

my list of must-dos. The latter two are all-inclusives 

held on Carnival Sunday. For younger 

adults, Bacchanal Road, a Caesar’s Army fete 

where you are required to wear a costume and 

parade around a route, is a definite must. Other 

party opportunities during the year are: 

Caesar’s Army’s In de Paint dance on Independence 

Day, Cocoa Devil’s J’ouvert in July, 

Josie’s Jamishness in May, and Point Fortin 

Borough Day fetes.

Pennie: The season starts off with Soka in Moka — a must for all real party people. 

It’s an all-inclusive fete hosted by Trinity College. Veni Mangé is a mini-inclusive fete, which is hosted 

by the Woodbrook restaurant of the same name. Nice crowd, great venue. Any fete hosted by KAIRI 

People is excellent — highly recommended, safe, creative entertainment, best soca artistes, proper 

food and drinks … You get your money’s worth with their fetes. 

courtesy candy coated events 

Candy Coated Love Fest is held on Carnival Friday 

Franka & Ardene: School all-inclusives — St Mary’s, PREStige (Presentation 

College South), Fatima. Other all-inclusives — Different, Soca Brainwash. Wet/paint fetes: 

Soaka, Soaka Street Party, AM Bush. Cooler fetes: Bring It, Army, Bayview. Shows/concerts: 

Machel Monday, Tuesday on the Rocks. Carnival Sunday breakfast parties: Vale, Breakfast Is. 

One-off events during the year: Cocoa in July, Josie’s Jamishness, Beach House Mayfair. 

Regular events: a lot of parties take place on party boats like the MV Harbour Master; these are 

usually hosted by private promoters and popular DJs. 


47

Festivals 

Roundtable 

maria 

Photographer & Cultural Activist 

maria nunes 

Everyone should attend the First Peoples Heritage Week 

activities at least once in their lifetime — the water and smoke 

ceremonies in Arima, along with the procession around the Red 

House where the remains of First Peoples ancestors were discovered 

in 2013. Experiencing parang in Paramin is also really 

special. It’s a place everyone should go at least once. 

In addition to that: 

Obatala Festival — 

January (Ita Oosa, 

Woodbrook) 

Annual Ancestral 

(Egungun) Festival — 

February (Ile Isokan, 

Febeau Village, San Juan) 

Phagwa (or Holi) — 

February/March (Hindu 

Prachaar Kendra, Longdenville, 

and also around 

the island) 

Emancipation Day parade 

— 1 August (Independence 

Square, Port of 

Spain) 

Emancipation Steelband 

Street Parade — first 

Saturday in August 

(Laventille Steelband Festival 

Foundation, Eastern 

Main Road, Laventille) 

Pan on d’ Avenue — late 

August (Ariapita Avenue, 

Woodbrook) 

First Peoples Heritage 

Week — October (Santa 

Rosa, Arima) 

Divali — November 

(Felicity, Chaguanas, and 

around the island) 

Parang festival — December 

(Paramin). 

Obatala Festival 

48 

discovertnt.com

maria nunes 

A young member of the Laventille 

Rhythm Section plays during the 

Laventille Steelband Festival 

Laura 


Divali has always been my favourite festival because I 

grew up next to a Hindu family and one of my cherished childhood 

memories is going over to their house, eating what seemed 

like an unending supply of food on a soharee leaf, and later helping 

to light deyas. My father would then take us driving through 

south and central Trinidad to see the display of lights. The 

twinkling lights in the dark are so pretty to see. I think everyone 

should also experience the spring festival of Holi, where people 

spray abir on each other. 


49

Pennie 


Phagwa is a colourful, fun ritual that takes place in different 

areas of Trinidad … recommended for the whole family! In 

Blanchisseuse, we have a new jazz festival (North Coast Jazz) 

that is gaining steam — lots of local acts in a country setting with 

plenty local food and craft. 

The University of the West Indies (UWI) 

Hindu Society’s Phagwa celebrations 

avinath ramadhin 



entrepreneurs 

The NEW FIRE Festival (March); Bocas Literary Festival 

(April); T&T Film Festival (September); Ramleela (before 

Divali); Hosay … The Emancipation Village opens in the run-up 

to Emancipation Day (August), and the Divali Nagar hosts 

events which takes place in the week before Divali. 

50 

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In Trinidad, primarily in St James, the Muslim remembrance 

of Muharram, or Hosay, is a celebration that all partake 

in. The Trinidad version is one of drumming, ornate tadjahs 

(mosque-shaped model tombs), and dancing of the handcrafted 

moons. It is Trinidad from another perspective, and the accompanying 

food is a small celebration that is recommended at 

least once. 

Nigel 

music journalist & 

businessman 

Muslim devotees at Hosay in Cedros 

prepare to push a tadjah out to sea after 

dusk. It is then moored overnight and 

dismantled on land the next morning 

giancarlo lalsingh 

The drum circle 

at the NEW FIRE 

Festival 

jason cazoe 


51

Eco adventure 

with Courtenay 

QA & 

courtenay 

“Bushman” & eco-tour operator 

What makes the island special? 

What are the must-visit 

local sites? 

RAPSO IMAGING 

We were connected to South America, 

so you’re really getting South 

American flora and fauna on a Caribbean 

island with a rich culture. When I hike 

in Suriname or Brazil or go birdwatching, it is 

more familiar to me than if I do that in Dominica 

or Barbados. From an eco-tourism point of view, 

you can’t get better than that. 

52 

Ruby topaz hummingbird 


If you’re doing bird-watching, then the Asa 

Wright Nature Centre, Yerette, and Caroni Bird 

Sanctuary are a must. You can build your itinerary 

around those three. 

If you’re a general naturalist and nature 

lover, then I’d time the visit around the nesting 

of the leatherback turtles (March–September), 

because that really is an opportunity of a lifetime. 

There’s also a supporting cast with things 

like the Tamana Caves with the tens of 

thousands of bats — that really is amazing. 

Then you can see the red howler 

monkeys in places like Nariva Swamp, 

where the atmosphere is pretty awesome. 

Then there are several hikes you 

can do — places like Guanapo Gorge, 

going up El Tucuche, a trip down Chaguaramas 

for the Gasparee Caves are 

some of the best eco adventure things. 

And for me, within eco-tourism, 

no trip to Trinidad or Tobago, whatever 

you’re doing, is complete without a genuine 

cultural interaction … really getting 

some true Tobago blue food, a proper 

buss-up-shut or roti, sitting down with 

Trinidadians. Because you can get 

other places that are amazing — other 

amazing birding lodges, other Guanapo 

Gorges, caves with millions of bats … 

The real thing that separates Trinidad 

is getting all of them in such a compact 

area, and tying it in with the culture 

makes it a really special experience.

What are some of your favourite 

treks, from easy to advanced? 

A really easy hike would be Avocat waterfall, 

Rio Seco waterfall — those are lovely. Guanapo 

Gorge is one of my favourites, and of 

course the Tamana Bat Caves, which is a moderate 

sort of hike with big adventure. And for 

me, depending on how you’re doing it — like 

with camping — the Matelot to Blanchisseuse 

trek is a big adventure. And of course, El Tucuche 

is a tough, done-in-a-day hike. 

What are your favourite 

beaches? 

There is something about Las Cuevas that I 

have always loved. It’s a combination of ease 

of access with still very rugged scenery — 

and that’s from my personal point of view, like 

going surfing and things like that. I think our 

best beach for eco-tourism is really Grande 

Rivière — it’s a combination of nature hiking 

with access to the piping guan, the birds, the 

turtles … It truly is a multi-dimensional destination 

that’s hard to beat. 

Scarlet ibis fly home to roost 

in the Caroni Swamp & Bird 

Sanctuary 

RAPSO IMAGING 


53

The Gasparee Caves, off 

Chaguaramas 

Tarun jagessar 

Even more hikes & waterfalls 

Maracas Falls: Trinidad’s tallest waterfall (91m/299ft); a gentle 30–45 minute trek 

Paria Bay: a roughly two-hour, intermediate hike from Blanchisseuse (or Brasso Seco) 

to Cathedral Rock/Paria Arch. A pristine white sand beach where turtles nest (in 

season), and a nearby waterfall, await 

Turure Water Steps: enjoy the pools and these natural limestone “steps” after an 

intermediate 60 minute hike. 

What day trips or tours do you 

recommend? 

An easy day if you’re just popping in to Trinidad 

is Asa Wright Nature Centre and the Caroni 

Bird Sanctuary. If you’re looking for adventure, 

I do mountain biking down in Chaguaramas 

combined with the Covigne River, so you get 

the biking, hiking, and river swimming. Even 

though the river is small, it’s very pretty and it’s 

lots and lots of fun where you can climb some 

little waterfalls and so on. A bigger adventure is 

really a long day, so you head out early and do 

Guanapo Gorge and then run to Tamana after. 

That’s leaving at 5am or 6am and then flying out 

at 9pm or 10pm. 

Do you have a favourite place 

or experience in Trinidad? 

After travelling the world, what I love about 

Trinidad is the multiplicity of things and experiences 

you can have on any given day. You can 

have a mountain biking adventure then go have 

some curry and then go lime on the Avenue. 

When people ask me what my favourite bird 

is, the answer is that what I love is the variety 

of birds we have here. And it’s the variety of 

experiences that I really enjoy. 

54 

discovertnt.com

Tamana Caves 

313m/1,009ft above sea 

level 

1.5 million bats (67 species 

of the island’s nocturnal 

bats, including vampire, 

fruit, and insect bats) 

at dusk, they all stream out 

of the caves en masse to 

feed. 

EDITOR’S TIPS 

El Tucuche 

937m/3,072ft above sea 

level 

6.5km/4 miles each way 

(8–12 hours return) 

spot a rare golden tree 

frog in a giant bromeliad, 

or toucans, mountain 

crabs, howler monkeys, 

cicadas, hummingbirds, 

and other rare species. 

Rio Seco Falls 

part of the Matura 

National Park 

a gentle 45–60 minute 

hike brings you to the 

falls, and a natural 

swimming pool. 

Tour operators 

You can find listings of tour guides and operators like Indiversity Group at tourguidestt.com 

and touroperatorsassociationtt.com, and many hotels and guesthouses should also be able 

to help you choose the best provider for your needs. Alternatively, you could rent a car from 

outfits like Econo Car and go exploring on your own! 

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E. indiversity@gmail.com 


55


A closer look 

Courtenay has given us a great introduction to eco adventures in Trinidad. And that’s just the 

start. Few places in the world can match Trinidad for biodiversity per square kilometre: 

108 species of mammals 

a growing number of recorded bird species (well over 400) 

55 reptile species 

25 amphibian species 

and 617 butterfly species. 

Here’s a deeper look at those amazing places and experiences Courtenay recommends, all of 

which are also great for families! 

Turtle-watching 

T&T is home to five of the seven species of sea turtles found globally. All are on the International 

Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List — the vulnerable leatherback 

and olive ridley; the endangered green and loggerhead; and the critically endangered 

hawksbill. The leatherback, hawksbill, and green turtle nest on beaches, while the loggerhead 

and olive ridley are occasionally sighted at sea. 

Trinidad is one of the few places in the Caribbean where the giant female leatherback practises 

the timeless “family tradition” of returning to nest at the place where she was born. After 

swimming through the rough waves of the Atlantic, she makes her way up the beach, laboriously 

digs a hole with her flippers into which she lays hundreds of eggs, and then “backfills” it before 

returning to the sea to mate again. 

As the second largest leatherback nesting site in the world, Trinidad receives more than 

6,000 of these heavyweights (up to 2,000lb) every March–September. You can see them on 

any north or east coast beach, especially Matura and Grande Rivière (where you can see up to 

50 a night, and even be lucky enough to spot the endangered blue-throated piping-guan or pawi 

bird). About two months later, the clutch of babies emerge from the sand and head for the open 

ocean. Peak season for seeing hatchlings is June–August. 

Conservation efforts in Matura and Grande Rivière require that permits be acquired to 

visit nesting sites. These can be arranged through authorised tour guides (Nature Seekers: 

natureseekers.org, 668-7337; Grande Rivière Nature Tour Guide Association: 670-4257/469- 

1288), local accommodation, or directly at Forestry Division offices. 

Make sure to … 

keep disturbances to a minimum (including noise and movement) 

— do not touch nesting turtles or hatchlings 

use only infrared lights, and no flash photography 

refrain from driving, setting fires, or littering on nesting 

beaches. 

56 

discovertnt.com

Above: baby leatherback turtle hatchlings. 

Below: a female leatherback turtle returns 

to the ocean after nesting at Grande Rivière 

rapso imaging 

rapso imaging 


57

Birding trips 

Trinidad is blessed with over 400 

recorded bird species — among 

the top 10 countries in the world for 

the number of species per square 

mile. Peak birding season is November–May, 

but there’s lots to see year-round. Ornithologists 

flock here because of the diversity and accessibility 

of the birds. Here’s where you’ll want to 

head. 

Asa Wright Nature Centre 

(Arima Valley) 

This 1,500-acre sanctuary is among the oldest 

in the Caribbean. The main centre and 

guesthouse are located on a former cocoacoffee-citrus 

plantation. The long dry season 

(January–May) is when the most striking vegetation 

is in bloom, as well as in the shorter dry 

season (Petit Carême) in October. Open 9am– 

5pm for day visits, with guided walks (1.5hrs) 

at 10:30am and 1:30pm. There are numerous 

waterfalls and caves nearby, and an overnight 

stay gives you the chance to see rare oilbirds. 

Reservations required (asawright.org, 667- 

4655). Entrance fee US$6–$10/TT$15–$30. 

Winston Nanan Caroni Bird 

Sanctuary 

A must on every birder’s list, these are the 

protected breeding grounds of the national 

bird, the scarlet ibis. Most boat tours leave at 

4pm. Mangrove channels create a dramatic 

backdrop for the 100 species of birds that 

make their home here alongside snakes (boas) 

in trees, crabs, and snails. At dusk, the sky is 

filled with streaks of red as hundreds of scarlet 

ibis return to roost in trees on an island in 

the middle of the swamp. 

caronibirdsanctuary.com, 755-7826 

Yerette, Home of the 

Hummingbird 

(Maracas, St Joseph) 

Here, you’ll spend an intimate couple of hours 

at the home of Theo and Gloria Ferguson. Dozens 

of hummingbirds flit by, some a few inches 

away, as they sip from dozens of feeders and 

flowers. Theo is a knowledgeable host, with a 

slide show about the tiny acrobats, and a beautiful 

collection of photos for sale. yerettett.com, 

663-2623 

Nariva Swamp and Bush 

Bush Sanctuary 

Bush Bush is a protected island within Nariva 

Swamp, the largest freshwater wetland in the 

Caribbean. Here you’ll find capuchin and red 

howler monkeys, blue and gold macaws, and 

toucans. Boating and kayaking are only possible 

in the rainy season. It’s imperative to go 

with a tour guide who will arrange permits 

from the Forestry Division. 

Pointe-à-Pierre Wildfowl 

Trust 

An oasis of ponds surrounded by green forest, 

set within the sprawling grounds of an oil 

refinery complex, this magical Trust works to 

reintroduce endangered wetland birds to their 

natural habitat. It’s home to rare ducks, scarlet 

ibis, blue and gold macaw, and many more. An 

on-site learning centre houses a small First 

Peoples museum, and there is a full-service 

guesthouse. Advance bookings required: 

papwildfowltrust.org, 658-4200 ext 2512 

58 

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Copper-rumped hummingbird 

rapso imaging 


59

This page: toucan 

Opposite page: rare and protected 

birds — the Trinidad piping guan 

or pawi (top); blue and gold macaw 

(bottom left); and scarlet ibis, the 

national bird (bottom right) 

all photos on this spread by RAPSO IMAGING 

60 

discovertnt.com


61

RAPSO IMAGING 

Chaguaramas 

National 

Heritage Park 

Just 20 minutes from Port of Spain, 

hikers, bikers, explorers, bird watchers, 

hashers, archers, and golfers 

all have their place in “Chag” 

(chaguaramas.com, 225-4232). 

Tucker Valley nature trails 

The Covigne River trail passes through nutmeg 

groves and along a tributary of the Cuesa 

River uphill through a gorge. The trail ends at 

a waterfall with a plunge pool. Edith Falls is 

located in an abandoned cocoa estate nestled 

against the eastern side of Morne Catherine 

and overlooking the golf course. A fairly gentle 

hike, you will hear red howler monkeys in 

the forest canopy along the trail. 

Down de Islands (DDI) 

Off the northwest coast, several offshore islands 

offer a range of beloved escapes. There 

are the Five Islands (including Nelson Island, 

where Indian immigrants were quarantined 

when they arrived by boat); the Diego Islands; 

Gaspar Grande; Gasparilo Island (aka Centipede); 

Monos; Huevos; and Chacachacare 

(which was once a leper colony, and has 

saltwater ponds, ruins, and a still-functioning 

lighthouse). These islands were originally the 

ceremonial grounds of the First Peoples. On 

Gaspar Grande, the jetty at Point Baleine was 

once a whaling station. This is the home of the 

underground Gasparee caves’ stalagmites and 

Blue Grotto, with its “sunroof”. 

Sunset in Chacachacare 

62 


Recent additions 

More recent man-made attractions, all popular 

with families, include the ZIP-ITT’s seven 

zip-lines in Tucker Valley (one passes over 

Macqueripe Bay) and five canopy walks or net 

bridges (TT$85–150, zipitt.net, 303-7755); 

the Boardwalk along the beachfront; the Five 

Islands Waterpark; and the Safari Eco Park.

More favourite beaches 

Trinidad’s waters tend to have bigger, 

more powerful waves than Tobago’s, 

with beaches set against rugged 

cliffs or dramatic mountain backdrops. 

There’s the popular Maracas Beach, with 

ample food, restrooms, and parking; with Tyrico 

Bay (no facilities), then Las Cuevas next along 

the coast. The caves (cuevas) here are part of 

the attraction; there’s also a car park, changing 

facilities, and snack bar. 

The long and rugged stretch of beach at 

Blanchisseuse is another favourite along the 

north coast, especially for surfers. At the end 

of the bay, the Marianne River is a prime spot 

for kayaking. Salybia and Sans Souci in the 

northeast are also magnets for surfers. In 

Chaguaramas, meanwhile, are the emerald 

green waters of popular Macqueripe Bay. 

In the south, Mayaro (a very long beach 

that’s usually covered in chip chip, a tiny mollusk 

that can be cooked) and Quinam are the 

most frequented, while the coconut tree-lined 

Manzanilla stretches for miles up the east 

coast. The west coast boasts warm waters and 

white sand at Vessigny and Granville. 

Macqueripe Bay 


RAPSO IMAGING 

63

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Jason audain 

The Nariva river meets the sea near Manzanilla 


65

More family-friendly experiences 

La Vega Estate 

RAPSO IMAGING 

Angostura Museum and 

Barcant Butterfly Collection 

(Port of Spain) 

The Barcant Butterfly Collection, the only one 

of its kind in the region, comprises more than 

5,000 specimens (700 species, including the 

blue emperor) in a re-created tropical forest. 

Children will love it. Angostura acquired the 

collection in 1974, and it has been at the company’s 

compound since. You can book a tram 

tour of the Angostura factory, introducing you 

to the company’s history and making of their 

world-famous bitters and celebrated rums. 

Tours (two hours) are 9:30am and 1:30pm, 

Monday–Friday; advance booking required: 

623-1841, betancr@angostura.com 

Fort George (Port of Spain) 

Built in 1804, this “virgin fort” (which never saw 

military action) offers a magnificent panoramic 

view from 335m/1,100ft; its original cannon 

and part of the dungeon remain. On a clear 

day, you can see to south Trinidad, and west to 

Venezuela. Open 10am–6pm, admission free 

La Vega Estate (Gran Couva) 

This 250-acre estate is a garden centre, 

plant nursery, and nature and recreation 

park combined. You’ll find fruit trees, herbs 

and vegetables, alongside fishing ponds, 

pedal boats, water slides, a pool, jungle gym, 

accommodation, and a restaurant. 

679-9522, lavegaestate.com 

66 

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The magnificent view from Paramin 

jason audain 

For lovers of heritage… 

maria 

Photographer & 

Cultural Activist 

Visit the Temple in the Sea at Waterloo … Take the time to 

walk through and around Woodford Square (Port of Spain), and 

make sure to go to see Carlisle Chang’s masterpiece Conquerabia 

at City Hall. It’s one of our overlooked public art treasures. Take a 

guided tour through Paramin. Visit Lopinot’s former estate house, 

and get a guided tour through the area. 

Mud volcanoes 

These geological wonders can be found mainly 

in the south of the island: Piparo (aka Morne 

Roche, 111m/365ft, 425 acres); Devil’s Woodyard; 

Digity Trace (6m/20ft, with a flatter 

second volcano nearby); and others at L’Eau 

Michel, Lagon Bouffe, Anglais Point, Erin, 

Chatam, Columbia Estate, Fullarton, Cedros, 

Galfa, Los Iros, Tabaquite, Cascadoux Trace, 

and Manzanilla. 

68 


Pitch Lake (La Brea) 

One of the three largest natural deposits of 

asphalt in the world, it’s deceptively boring to 

look at. Estimated to contain 10 million tonnes of 

asphalt, and spanning 109 acres; pools formed 

by rain contain high levels of sulphur, which are 

good for the skin and joints. Artefacts from the 

First Peoples, for whom the lake was sacred, 

have been unearthed here; some can be viewed 

at the museum in the visitor centre. 651-1232

apso imaging 


69

Queen’s Park Savannah (Port of Spain) 

This 260-acre park holds a very special place in the Trini 

heart. Originally part of the Peschier family’s Paradise Estate, 

the Caribbean’s oldest recreation ground — and reported to 

be the world’s largest roundabout at approximately 3.5km/2.2 

miles — was converted into a city park in 1817, and is popular 

for sports and recreation. 

On its northern side, you will find the Emperor Valley 

Zoo, founded in 1947 (zstt.org, 622-5344) and the Botanical 

Gardens (established 1820), which has one of the oldest collections 

in the western hemisphere. On the southeastern side 

is Memorial Park and the iconic National Academy for the 

Performing Arts (NAPA). Next door is the National Museum 

& Art Gallery. 

And on its northwestern side are the “Magnificent Seven” 

— colonial-era homes in varying degrees of repair and use, with 

diverse histories and ownership. From south to north: Queen’s 

Royal College (1904, boys’ secondary school); Hayes 

Court (1910, Anglican Bishop’s residence); Milles 

Fleurs (1904); Roomor (private home); the Roman Catholic 

Archbishop’s residence (1903); Whitehall (1907); and Killarney 

or Stollmeyer’s Castle (1904). 

Valencia Eco- 

Resort 

This is a 10-acre estate 

with hundreds of fruit trees 

and flocks of birds and butterflies. 

Enjoy aerobics, 

archery, basketball, cricket, 

volleyball, football, table tennis, 

and billiards. Fish for 

tilapia in the pond, cook in an 

outdoor carat shed or take 

a cool dip in the river (or 

the large swimming pool). 

Also in the mix: peacocks, 

geese, parrots, guinea fowls, 

ducks, tortoises, rabbits, 

and monkeys. 731-6774, 

valenciaecoresort.com 

chris anderson 

The Turure water steps 

(Cumaca Falls) near Valencia 

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ziad joseph 

A pink poui blooms in the 

Queen’s Park Savannah 


71

Sports spotlight 

Athletics 

The island has a long history of excelling at 

athletics. Local and international stars meet 

in action at the annual Hampton Games. National 

Association of Athletics Administrations: 

679-3276 

Cricket 

The Queen’s Park Oval (Port of Spain) and 

Brian Lara Cricket Academy (Tarouba) 

are the focal points for Twenty20, one-day, 

and Test matches — including West Indies 

and Caribbean Premier League series. T&T 

Cricket Board: 636-1577, ttcb.co.tt 

Cycling & mountain biking 

The Easter International Grand Prix and 

National Championships are highlights of the 

racing calenda. A new world-class National 

Cycling Velodrome (Couva) opened in 2016; 

the Arima Velodrome is another focal point. 

Mountain bikers head to Chaguaramas, Santa 

Cruz, and the northern range. T&T Cycling 

Federation: 679-8823 

Swimming & aquatics 

A world-class National Aquatics Centre 

opened in 2016, intended to be a hub for 

water polo, swimming, and diving. Public 

swimming pools are also located in Port of 

Spain (Flying Fish), Tunapuna (Centre of Excellence), 

St Joseph (La Joya), Diego Martin, 

San Fernando (Cocoyea), Couva, and Siparia. 

Amateur Swimming Association: 643-2813 

Tennis 

The National Tennis Centre (Tacarigua) 

opened in 2016, while there are public 

courts at Nelson Mandela Park (St Clair), 

and courts for hourly rental at the Country 

Club (Maraval) and some hotels. T&T Tennis 

Association: 625-3030 

Football (soccer) 

T&T was the smallest nation, until Iceland 

in 2017, to qualify for the World Cup 

finals (2006). The Hasely Crawford (Port of 

Spain), Manny Ramjohn (Marabella), Larry 

Gomes (Arima), Ato Boldon (Couva), and 

Marvin Lee stadia are the main venues. T&T 

Football Federation (TTFF): 623-9500 

72

The Trinbago Knight Riders 

are reigning Caribbean 

Premier League champs 

courtesy cpl T20 ltd 2018 


73

Map Key (applies to all maps) 

Police Station 

Hospital 

Turtle Nesting 

Shopping Centre 

Lighthouse 

Beach with 

Restrooms 

Caves 

Highway 

Gas Station 

Bird Watching 

Golf Course 

Scuba Diving 

Place of interest 

Food Available 

Museum 

Planned 

Highway 

Huevos 

Chacachacare 

Monos 

Scotland Bay 

Gaspar 

Grande 

Waterfall 

Sailing & boat tours 

Fort 

Airport 

Surfing 

Swamp 

Lifeguard on Duty 

Major roadway 

Macqueripe Bay 

Chaguaramas 

Diego Martin 

PORT OF 

SPAIN 

Pt Lisas 

Paramin 

Santa Cruz 

Morvant 

El Socorro 

Waterloo 

Couva 

California 

Maracas Bay 

Barataria 

San Juan 

Caroni Bird Sanctuary 

Chaguanas 

Carapichaima 

St Joseph 

Curepe 

Tyrico Bay 

Freeport 

Las Cuevas 

Jerningham 

Junction 

Longdenville 

Tunapuna 

Piarco 

Gran Couva 

Lopinot 

Cunupia 

Tacarigua 

A 

Pia 

Claxton Bay 

Tortuga 

Pi 

Granville 

Pitch Lake 

Vessigny 

Pt Fortin 

Cap De Ville 

La Brea 

Mon Desir 

St Mary’s 

Fyzabad 

Siparia 

Pointe-à-Pierre 

SAN 

FERNANDO 

Oropouche 

Lagoon 

Vistabella 

Debe 

Penal 

Gasparillo 

Ste Madeleine 

Barrackpore 

Princes 

Town 

New Grant 

Busy 

India 

Walk 

Icacos Pt 

Icacos 

Cedros 

Erin Bay 

San Francique 

Palo Seco 

Quinam Bay 

Los Bajos 

74 

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Tyrico Bay 

Las Cuevas 

Blanchisseuse 

Blanchisseuse 

Matelot 

Grande Riviere 

Matelot 


Toco 

Salybia Bay 

Redhead 

Galera Pt 

Toco 

Redhead 

Salybia Bay 

Galera Pt 

Joseph 

rouca 

pe 

Brasso Seco Brasso Seco 

Asa Wright Nature Asa Wright Nature 

Centre 

Centre 

Lopinot 

Hollis Reservoir 

Tunapuna 

Tacarigua 

Arima 

Valencia 

Arouca 

Valencia 

Arima 

Salybia 


Matura 

Rampanalgas Rampanalgas 

Balandra Bay Balandra Bay 

Salybia 

Saline (Sally) Bay Saline (Sally) Bay 

Matura 

Matura Bay Matura Bay 

Piarco 

Cumuto 

rco Intl Piarco Intl Guaico 

Airport ningham 

San Rafael 

Airport 

San Rafael 

nction 

Cunupia 

Cunaripa 

Talparo 

ngdenville 

Todds Road 

eeport 

Brasso 

Gran Couva 

paro 

rillo 

Corner 

Tabaquite 

Tortuga 

Brasso 

Navet Dam 

Poole 

Poole 

Rio Claro 

New Grant 

e 

Tableland Tableland 

n Princes Indian 

Town Walk 

Devil’s Woodyard Devil’s Woodyard 

kpore 

Basse Terre 

Moruga 

Sangre 

Grande 

Talparo 

Coryal 

Coryal 

Caroni-Arena ReservoirCaroni-Arena Reservoir 

Todds Road 

Piparo 

Busy Corner 

Tabaquite 

Basse Terre 

Moruga 

Navet Dam 

Cumuto 

Biche 

Guaico 

Cunaripa 

Nariva Swamp 

and Bush-Bush 

Sanctuary 

Rio Claro 

Sangre 

Grande 

Guayaguayare 

Biche 

Rushville 

Manzanilla 

Nariva Swamp 

and Bush-Bush 

Sanctuary 

Manzanilla Bay 

St Joseph 

Mayaro 

Mayaro Bay 

Guayaguayare 

Rushville 

Galeota Pt 

Manzanilla 

Manzanilla Bay 

St Joseph 

Mayaro N 

Mayaro Bay 

Galeota Pt 

N 

Trinidad map 


75

Cocorite, Westmoorings, Chaguaramas 

Cocorite, Westmoorings, Chaguaramas 

Dengue St 

Dengue St 

Kandahar St 

Kandahar St 

Maraval 

Maraval 

Ellerslie Park 

Ellerslie Park 

Link 

St James Medical St James Medical 

Complex Complex 

Coronation 

Link 

Luckput St 

AUDREY JEFFERS 

Mathura 

Coronation 

Carlton Ave 

Romeo St 

George Cabral 

Salazar St 

Luckput St 

Lazare St 

AUDREY JEFFERS 

Bay Rd 

Pujadas St 

HIGHWAY 

Ranjit Kumar St 

Ranjit Kumar St 

Angelina 

Quamina 

Church St 

Finland 

Ethel St 

Kathleen St 

Bournes Rd 

Brunton Rd 

Anderson St 

Vidale St 

Patna St 

Clarence St 

Mooneram St 

Bombay St 

Weekes St 

Baroda St 

WESTERN MAIN RD 

WESTERN MAIN RD 

Mathura 

Carlton Ave 

Romeo St 

George Cabral 

Salazar St 

Lazare St 

Bay Rd 

Pujadas St 

Calcutta St 

Nizam St 

Panka St 

MUCURAPO Rd 

MUCURAPO Rd 

Long Circular 

Mall 

Delhi St 

Sakar St 

Madras St 

Nepaul St 

Agra St 

Hyderabad 

Woodbrook Cemetery Woodbrook Cemetery 

HIGHWAY 

Angelina 

Quamina 

Church St 

Finland 

Ethel St 

MovieTowne 

Kathleen St 

Bournes Rd 

Brunton Rd 

Anderson St 

Vidale St 

Hasely Crawford 

Stadium 

St 

Henry Pierre 

Fatima Sports 

Grounds 

Patna St 

Clarence St 

Gaston 

Johnston St 

Jean Pierre 

Complex 

MovieTowne 

Mooneram St 

Bombay St 

Weekes St 

Baroda St 

Bengal St 

Calcutta St 

Nizam St 

Cawnpore St 

Panka St 

Delhi St 

Sakar St 

Benares St 

Belle Smythe 

Madras St 

Long Circular Rd 

Nepaul St 

Lucknow St 

Taylor St 

Hamilton Holder St 

One 

Woodbrook 

Place 

Digicel Imax 

Hamilton St 

O’Connor 

Dennis Mahabir St 

Petra St 

Barbados Rd 

St James 

Police Baracks 

Agra St 

Hyderabad 

St 

Henry Pierre 

Fatima Sports 

Grounds 

Hasely Crawford 

Stadium 

Jean Pierre 

Complex 

Long Circular 

Mall 

Gaston 

Johnston St 

Bengal St 

Cawnpore St 

Benares St 

Damian St 

De Verteuil St 

St Lucia St 

Brabant St 

Kelly Kenny St 

Belle Smythe 

Long Circular Rd 

Lucknow St 

Taylor St 

Ana St 

Hamilton Holder St 

Hunter St 

Petra St 

Trinidad Crescent 

Trinidad Crescent 

Antigua Dr 

Gallus St 

Grenada 

Ana St 

Pole Carew St 

Alberto St 

Gallus St 

Dominica 

Nevis Ave 

Alberto 

Jamaica Blvd 

Serpentine Rd 

Broome St 

Rosalino St 

Siegert Sq 

Luis St 

St Kitts Ave 

St Vincent 

St Mary’s Sports St Mary’s Sports 

Grounds Grounds 

Havelock 

St 

Roberts St 

ARIAPITA AVENUE 

ARIAPITA AVENUE 

Rosalino St 

Alfredo St 

Rapsey St 

Queen’s Park 

Oval 

Luis St 

Elizabeth St 

Adam 

Smith Sq 

Carlos St 

Ellerslie Plaz 

Alfredo St 

Scott 

Wainwright 

Carlos 

Murray St 

Flo 

St C 

One Nelson Mandela Park Nelson Mandela Park 

Me 

Woodbrook 

Place 

Hamilton St 

O’Connor 

Dennis Mahabir St 

Petra St 

Barbados Rd 

St James 

Police Baracks 

Digicel Imax 

Damian St 

De Verteuil St 

St Lucia St 

Brabant St 

Kelly Kenny St 

Ana St 

Hunter St 

Petra St 

Antigua Dr 

Gallus St 

Grenada 

Ana St 

Pole Carew St 

Alberto St 

Gallus St 

Dominica 

Nevis Ave 

Alberto 

Jamaica Blvd 

Serpentine Rd 

Broome St 

Rosalino St 

TRAGAR 

Siegert Sq 

Luis St 

St K 

St Vincen 

Havelock 

Que 

Rober 

Rosalino St 

A 

John S Donaldson John S Donal 

Techinal Institute Techinal Inst 

Port of Spain 

Taxi Stands Taxi Stands 

1 

2 

Ariapita Avenue/ Ariapita Avenue/ 

1 

6 

Chaguaramas/Carenage Chaguaramas/Carenage 

Cascade 2 Cascade 

7 

3 Maraval 3 Maraval 

8 

5 

St Anns/St 5James/Queens 

St Anns/St James/Queens 

Park Savannah Park Savannah 

Belmont 6 Belmont 

10 

Diego Martin/Petit 7 Diego Valley Martin/Petit Valley 11 

Wrightson 8Rd/Long Wrightson Circular Rd/Long Circular 12 

Curepe Tunapuna/ Curepe Tunapuna/ 

10 

Arima/Sangre Grande Arima/Sangre Grande 

San Juan11 

San Juan 

Chaguaramas 12 Chaguaramas 

N 

N 

4 

Cocorite 

4 

Cocorite 

9 

Chaguanas/San 9 Chaguanas/San Fernando Fernando 13 

POS General 13 Hospital POS General Hospital 

76 

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Flament St 

Flament St 

Victoria Ave 

Victoria Ave 

Charlotte St 

Archer St 

Charlotte St 

Archer St 

Maraval & Maracas Maraval & Maracas 

St Ann’s 

St Ann’s 

t 

a 

St 

St 

lfredo St 

St 

Fitt St 

Maxwell-Phillip 

od St 

Saddle Rd 

Rapsey St 

itts Ave 

lair 

dical 

Sweet Briar Rd Sweet Briar Rd 

Alexandra 

Murray St 

Hayes St 

Gray St 

Mary St 

Flood St Flood St 

Alcazar St 

Rust St 

Baden Powell St 

Cornelio St 

Newbold 

Serpentine Rd 

en’s Park 

Oval 

ts St 

ETE RD 

Luis St 

Adam 

Smith Sq 

Carlos St 

dson 

itute 

Ellerslie Plaza 

Alfredo St 

Jackson 

Sq 

Elizabeth St 

Vallot St 

Scott St 

Wainwright 

William St 

Herbert St 

French St 

Lammy St 

Methuen St 

Mc Donald St 

Kitchener 

Buller 

Cotton Hill 

Prada St 

Magnificent Seven 

St Clair 

Queen’s 

Medical 

Royal 

College 

Carlos St 

Murray St 

Fitt St 

Saddle Rd 

Maxwell-Phillip 

Alexandra 

TRAGARETE RD 

Murray St 

Cruise Ship Complex 

Hayes St 

Gray St 

Mary St 

Maraval Rd Maraval Rd 

Marli St 

Alcazar St 

Rust St 

Baden Powell St 

Cornelio St 

Newbold 

Serpentine Rd 

Jackson 

Sq 

Vallot St 

William St 

Picton St 

Warner St 

Gatacre St 

WRIGHTSON RD 

Licensing Office Licensing Office 

Lady Chancellor Rd 

Herbert St 

Woodford St 

TRAGARETE RD 

French St 

Lammy St 

Flood St 

Queen’s 

Royal 

College 

Methuen St 

Mc Donald St 

Cruise Ship Complex 

Kitchener 

Buller 

Cotton Hill 

Prada St 

Magnificent Seven 

Sackville St 

Fire Station 

Horticultural 

Society 

Maraval Rd Maraval Rd 

Stone St 

Cipriani Boulevard 

Emperor Valley 

Zoo 

Marli St 

Picton St 

Warner St 

Gatacre St 

WRIGHTSON RD 

Scott Bushe St 

Lady Chancellor Rd 

Albion St 

Stanmore Ave 

Lapeyrouse 

Cemetery 

QUEEN’S PARK SAVANNAH QUEEN’S PARK SAVANNAH 

Woodford St 

TRAGARETE RD 

Sackville St 

Fire Station 

Phillips St 

Shine St 

Charles St 

Botanical 

Gardens 

Horticultural 

Society 

Stone St 

QUEEN’S PARK WEST QUEEN’S PARK WEST 

Cipriani Boulevard 

Victoria 

Sq 

Sackville St 

Dere St 

Melville 

Borde St 

Fraser St 

Melbourne St 

London St 

Albion St 

Stanmore Ave 

Lapeyrouse 

Cemetery 

Scott Bushe St 

Richmond St 

Prime Minister’s Residence 

Prime Minister’s Residence 

and Diplomatic Centre 

and Diplomatic Centre 

Dundonald St 

Park St 

Charles St 

Government 

Campus Plaza 

Shine St 

Botanical 

Gardens 

Emperor Valley 

Zoo 

Phillips St 

Victoria 

Sq 

Sackville St 

Chancery 

Lane 

Edward St 

President’s 

House 

St Vincent 

Queen’s Hall 

Keate St 

Gordon St 

New St 

Oxford St 

Abercromby St 

Pembroke St 

Nook Ave 

La Fantasie 

Q UEEN’S PARK EAST 

Memorial 

NAPA NAPA Park 

National Museum National Museum 

Dere St 

Melville 

Borde St 

Fraser St 

Melbourne St 

London St 

Richmond St 

Dundonald St 

Chancery 

Lane 

Edward St 

St Vincent 

Frederick St 

Duke St 

Hall of Justice Hall City of Hall Justice City Hall 

Red Red 

House Woodford House Woodford 

Sq Sq 4 

Hart St 

5 

Hart St 

5 

National National 

Library Library 

Queen St 

6 

Queen St 

Knox St 

Keate St 

Gordon St 

New St 

Oxford St 

Abercromby St 

Henry St 

Belmont Circular 

Cadiz Rd 

Charlotte St 

Cascade 

Hilton Hotel 

Pembroke St 

Nook Ave 

La Fantasie 

Q UEEN’S PARK EAST 

Coblentz Ave 

Palmiste St 

Prince St 

Lady Young Rd 

Lady Young Rd 

Industry 

Erthig Rd 

Jerningham Ave Jerningham Ave 

Port of Spain 

Norfolk St 

Observatory 

Piccadilly 

Cascade Morvant, Barataria, Churchill Roosevelt Highway 

General Hospital General Hospital 

1 1 2 

2 

Park St 

Government 

Campus Plaza 

President’s 

House 

Queen’s Hall 

Knox St 

Memorial 

Park 

Frederick St 

Duke St 

Henry St 

3 

Belmont Circular 

Cadiz Rd 

Charlotte St 

Cascade 

Hilton Hotel 

4 

Coblentz Ave 

Palmiste St 

Prince St 

6 

Industry 

Erthig Rd 

Port of Spain 

Norfolk St 

Observatory 

Piccadilly 

3 

Cascade Morvant, Barataria, Churchill Roosevelt Highway 

International 

Waterfront Centre 

International 

Waterfront Centre 

GULF OF PARIA 

GULF OF PARIA 

Water Taxi 

Water Taxi 

South Quay 

Chacon St 

INDEPENDENCE INDEPENDENCE SQ/BRIAN LARA SQ/BRIAN PROMENADE LARA PROMENADE 

7 8 

12 

South Quay 

Chacon St 

10 11 

7 8 

9 

9 

10 11 

13 

13 

12 

Terminus/City Gate Terminus/City Gate 

Eastern Main Rd 

Eastern Main Rd 


77

Morne 

Catherine 

St Clair 

Maracas Bay & North Coast Santa Cruz 

North Coast Rd 

Cascade 

Lady Young 

Rd 

Independence Sq 

Queens Park 

Savannah 

Morne Coco Rd 

lar Rd 

ircu 

Long C 

t e 

Blue Basin 

Bagatelle 

Goodwood Park 

C o c o r i 

l f 

o f P 

a r i a 

a 

S e 

n 

e a 

Macqueripe 

Bay 

b b 

ri 

C a 

c 

B o 

a 

d e 

M o n o s 

Boca de Huevos 

Boca de Novios 

Boca Grande 

Chacachacare 

Huevos 

Monos 

Teteron Bay 

Gaspar Grande 

Chaguaramas Golf 

Course 

Edith 

Falls 

North Post 

Glencoe 

Paramin 

St James 

Woodbrook 

Maraval 

St Andrew's 

Golf Course 

St Ann's 

Belmont 

Laventille 

Saddle Rd 

Wrightson Rd 

Diego Martin Main Rd 

Tracking Station 

Gasparee Caves 

Petite 

Gourde 

Carrera 

Carenage 

Bay Carenage 

Chagville 

Five Islands 

Diego 

Pt 

Cumana 

West Mall 

Ft George 

PORT OF 

SPAIN 

R d 

M a i n 

North west 

N 

River Estate & 

Waterwheel 

Diego 

Martin 

Petit 

Valley 

TUCKER VALLEY 

Scotland Bay 

The Dragon's Mouth 

Carenage 

C H A G 

U A R 

We s t e rn 

A M 

A S 

Western Main Rd 

Starlite 

Shopping 

Centre 

G u 

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Port of Spain 

Port of Spain 

Eastern Ma 

Saline Bay 

Matura Bay 

Balandra 

Toco 

N 

Cumana 

Bay 

Sans Souci 

e a 

S 

a n 

b b e 

C a r i 

Grande 

Tacaribe 

Bay 

Madamas 

Bay 

Cumaca 

Grand 

Matelot 

Pt 

Matelot Bay 

Matelot 


Matura 

Salybia 

Cumana 

Rampanalgas 

Salybia 

Bay 

Galera 

Pt 

Road 

in 

To co Ma 

North east 


Bay 

Paria Bay 

Yarra Bay 

Chupara 

Pt 

La Fillete 

La Fillette 

Paria Main Rd 

Blanchisseuse Bay 

Pt 

North Coast Trail 

Las Cuevas Bay 

Tyrico Bay 

Blanchisseuse 

North Coast Rd 

Maracas Bay 

Rincon 

Brasso Seco 

Santa Cruz Maracas Falls 

Asa Wright 

Nature 

Sombasson 

La Veronica 

Centre Dunstan 

La Laja 

La Pastora Cave 

Caura 

Mt St 

Benedict 

Monastery 

Lopinot 

Guanapo 

Gorge 

Aripo 

Cumaca 

Rio Seco 

Valencia 

Tunapuna 

St Augustine 

Arouca 

ARIMA 

Tacarigua 

Curepe 

Las Cuevas 

El Tucuche 

(936m) 

Cleaver 

Woods 

El Cerro del Aripo 

(941m) 


Caura Royal Road 

Lopinot Rd 

El Socorro 

University of 

the West Indies 

Santa Rosa Race Track 

Paria 

G E 

A N 

N R 

H E R 

N O R T 

Maracas Royal Rd 

Saddle Rd 

St Joseph 

San Juan 

Barataria 

in Rd 

Valsayn 

NGC National 

Science Centre 

D'Abadie 

Turure Water 

Steps 

Aripo Rd 

Heights of Guanapo Rd 

Arima-Blanchisseuse Rd 

Trincity 

Mall 

San Fernando San Fernando Sangre Grande 

Sangre Grande & East Coast 

Wallerfield 

Madamas 


79

Tunapuna 

Couva 

Southern Main Rd 

y 

i n R d 

M a 

To c o M a in R d 

E a s t e rn M a i n R d 

Bay 

Grand 

El Socorro 

Bazaar 

Valsayn 

Caroni Swamp and 

Bird Sanctuary 

Curepe 

Caroni 

Piarco 

St Helena 

San Rafael 

Cunupia 

Chaguanas 

Longdenville 

CARONI PLAIN 

Talparo 

Friendship Hall 

Todd's Rd 

Mundo Nuevo 

Valencia 

Tamana 

Bat Caves 

Manzanilla 

Upper 

Pt 

Manzanilla 

Lower 

Manzanilla 

Plum 

Mitan 

Brigand Hill 

Lighthouse 

Plum Mitan Rd 

L o p 

C a u r 

i n o 

a R 

r a c a 

C 

u 

h 

h i ll - R o o s e v e l t H i g h w a y 

c 

r 

PORT OF SPAIN 

Piarco International 

Airport 

Divali 

Nagar 

Freeport 

d 

y a 

d l 

l R 

Y o u n g R d 

R 

Chase Village 

Temple in 

Waterloo 

Potteries 

the Sea 

Carapichaima 

Hanuman 

Murti 

ORANGE 

ESTATE 

California 

Brechin 

Castle 

Pt Lisas 

Industrial 

Estate 

Chicklands 

Flanagin 

Town 

La Vega 

Garden Centre 

Brasso 

Gran 

Pepper 

Couva 

Village 

Tabaquite 

Brasso 

Venado 

Navet Dam 

& Reservoir 

M a i n R d 

C o u v a 

S o u th e rn M a in R d 

Solomon Hochoy Highway 

San Fernando 

Marabella 

Reform 

St Madeleine 

MONSTERRAT 

HILLS 

Tortuga 

Mayo 

Tabaquite 

Tunnel 

Piparo 

Brickfield 

Bargain 

Busy 

Williamsville 

Corner 

Princes 

Indian 

Walk 

New 

Grant 

Devil's Woodyard 

Rio 

Claro 

Tabaquite Rd 

Moruga 

Manahambre Rd 

Claxton Bay 


Wildfowl 

Trust 


Cumuto 

Cunaripa 

SANGRE 

GRANDE 

Biche 

THE 

COCAL 

Nariva River 

Cunapo Southern Rd 

Cuche 

Nariva Swamp & 

Bush Bush Wildlife 

Sanctuary 

Manzanilla-Mayaro Rd 

Navet Navet River 

Pt 

Radix 

Killdeer River 

M a 

a ro R d 

N a p a ri m a 

ARIMA 

Caroni- 

Arena Dam 

& Reservoir 

Mayaro 

R i o C l a ro G u a y a g u y a re 

R A N G E 

Arouca 

Ta lp a ro R d 

C E N T R A L 

Port of Spain 

San Juan 

Uriah Butler Highway 

St Mary's 

SAN 

FERNANDO 

Lopinot 

Blanchisseuse 

& North Coast 

Valpark Shopping 

Trincity 

Plaza 

Mall 

Hollis 

Reservoir 

Central 

N 

80 


32

Gulf of Paria 

Mayaro Bay 

Mayaro-Guayaguayare Rd 

N 

Nariva Swamp 

Rio Claro Tabaquite 

Rio Claro 

Tableland 

Indian Walk 

St Madeleine 

Devil's Woodyard Mud 

Volcano 

Basse Terre 

La Romaine 

Pitch Lake 

La Brea 

La Lune 

Columbus 

Bay 

Fullarton 

Cedros Bay 

Bonasse 

Chatham 

North 

Chatham 

South 

Sixth Company 

Pt Fortin 

Vessigny 

Princes 

Town 

Oropouche 

Lagoon 

Southern Trunk Rd 

Granville Siparia 

San Fernando-Siparia-Erin Rd 

Erin Rd 

Erin ( San 

Francique) 

Palo Seco Quinam 

Erin 

Los Iros 

Icacos 

Pt 

Mayaro 

Ortoire River 

Guayaguayare 

Cunapo Rd 

N a parim a 

SAN FERNANDO 

Naparima-Mayaro Rd 

Guayaguayare 

Bay 

Galeota 

Pt 

TRINITY HILLS 

Port of Spain Tabaquite Sangre Grande 

Solomon Hochoy Highway 

Pointe-à-Pierre Wildfowl Trust 

Rd 

South 

Third Company 


Debe 

Barrackpore 

TRINITY HILLS 

WILDLIFE SANCTUARY 

& RESERVE 

Penal 

Rock Rd 

Morne 

Diablo 

Mon Desir 

Moruga 

Fyzabad 

Banwari 

Trace 


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Calendar 

For more on many of 

these celebrations, see 

our Festivals pages 

on pg 29 (Tobago) and pg 44 

(Trinidad). 

January 

1 (public holiday): New Year’s Day 

Carnival season begins (see full schedule of events 

through early March on ncctt.org), and our Trinidad 

Carnival section on pg 34) 

Trinidad & Tobago International Marathon (Trinidad) 

rapso imaging 

February 

Carnival season continues 

Tobago Carnival Regatta 

March 

Carnival season peaks (ncctt.org) 

4–5: J’Ouvert, Carnival Monday and 

Carnival Tuesday 

21: Phagwa (Holi) 

30 (public holiday): Spiritual Baptist 

Liberation Day — commemorating 

the 1951 repeal of the colonial-era 

Shouters Prohibition Ordinance 

(1917), which had effectively 

banned this Christian/Orisha 

syncretic religion 

Turtle nesting season begins 

(through September) 

82 

Kiddies carnival 

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of events 

April 

6: Jazz Artists on the Greens (Trinidad) 

12–14: NEW FIRE Festival 

19–22 Easter Weekend: (public holidays Friday 

and Monday) — hot cross buns, horse racing, and 

Tobago’s goat and crab races (Mt Pleasant on 

Monday and Buccoo on Tuesday) are highlights. 

Look out for the beating of the Good Friday bobolee 

— an effigy of Judas Iscariot, representing 

politicians, nefarious characters, and occasionally 

some particularly bad ex-boyfriends… 

Bocas Lit Fest — the Trinidad & Tobago 

Literary Festival 

Rally Trinidad 

Tobago Jazz Experience 

Pt Fortin Borough Day (Trinidad) — full 

week of J’Ouvert, mas, pan, and parties 

leading up the big street party 

Tobago Fashion Coda 

May 

22: Tobago Sea to Sea Marathon 

30 (public holiday): Indian 

Arrival Day — commemorates the 

arrival of the first indentured labourers 

from India in 1845 

European Film Festival (Trinidad) 

May MTB Madness (Tobago) — 

mountain biking event 

June 

TBC (public holiday): Eid-ul-Fitr — 

marking the end of the holy Muslim 

month of Ramadan, and celebrated 

in homes and mosques 

8: Rainbow Cup International 

Triathlon (Tobago) 

15: Yoruba Village Drum Festival 

(Trinidad) 

19 (public holiday): Labour Day, 

marked by trade union marches 

and gatherings in Fyzabad, Trinidad 

20 (public holiday): Corpus Christi 

Ganga Dhaara (Blanchisseuse, 

Trinidad) — Hindu river festival 

honouring the descent of India’s 

sacred River Ganges 

WeBeat Festival (St James, 

Trinidad) 

Tobago Dragon Boat Festival 

Junior Tobago Heritage Festival 


83

July 

15–1: Tobago Heritage Festival 

4–28: Great Fete Weekend (Tobago) 

23–31: Trans-Atlantic Expo, International 

Market & Trade Exposition (Lidj 

Yasu Omowale Emancipation Village, 

Trinidad) 

Africa Film Festival (Trinidad) 

Mango Festival (Trinidad) 

Trade & Investment Convention 


Motor Rally (Tobago) 

Opera festival (Trinidad) 

Carnival band launch season 

begins (through September/ 

October) 

August 

1 (public holiday): Emancipation Day 

31 (public holiday): Independence 

Day — commemorates the islands’ 

independence from Britain in 1962 

Santa Rosa Festival (Trinidad) 

Arima Borough Day (Trinidad) 

Laventille Steelband Festival (Trinidad) 

Oshun River Festival (Trinidad) — 

marked by Orisha devotees celebrating 

the goddess of love, fertility and inland 

waters 

Pan on d’ Avenue (Woodbrook, Trinidad) 

Great Race (from Trinidad to Tobago) 

Moruga Heritage Day Festival (Trinidad) 

September 

24 (public holiday): Republic Day — marks the adoption in 1976 of a new 

republican constitution (in which a President replaced the Queen of England as 

the head of state, and the islands became a republic within the Commonwealth), 

and the first meeting of the republican parliament 

trinidad+tobago film festival (ttff) — the Caribbean’s second largest festival 

devoted to film, showcasing short and feature length productions from the 

region and its diaspora, plus industry workshops and training sessions 

Hosay (Trinidad) 

Angostura Rum Festival (Trinidad) 

Trinidad & Tobago Restaurant Week 

Maracas Open Water Swim (Trinidad) 

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Lighting deyas at Divali 

October 

1–6: Tobago International 

Cycling Classic 

7–16: Santa Rosa First 

People’s Heritage Week 

TBC (public holiday): Divali 

Blue Food Festival (Tobago) 

Ramleela Festival (Trinidad) 

COCO Dance Festival (Trinidad) 

Steelpan & Jazz Festival (Trinidad) 

Chinese Arrival Dragon Boat Festival 


November 

Green Screen: The Environmental Film Festival 


Sailing and surfing seasons begin (through April) 

jason audain 

December 

25 (public holiday): Christmas Day 

26 (public holiday): Boxing Day 

Paramin Parang Festival (Trinidad) 

Assembly Day (Tobago) — Tobagonians’ achievements are 

celebrated and awarded 

Tobago Flying Colours — annual kite flying festival in 

Plymouth 


85

Getting to T&T 

Scheduled carriers 

Aeropostal, Air Canada Rouge, American Airlines, AVIANCA, British Airways, Caribbean Airlines, 

Copa, Condor, Conviasa, JetBlue, LIAT, Rutaca Airlines, Surinam Airways, Thomas Cook, United, 

Venezolana, Virgin Atlantic, WestJet, and charters 

Airports 

Trinidad: Piarco International Airport (27km/17 miles from Port of Spain) 

Tobago: ANR Robinson International Airport (10km/7 miles from Scarborough) 

Entry requirements 

A passport valid for three months beyond your intended stay; documentation for return or onward 

travel; and a local address (non-residents only). Visas generally not required for visits up to 30 days 

Arriving by sea (yachts & sailing boats) 

Arriving yachts should have a clearance certificate from the last port of call, and the vessel’s 

registration certificate (or authorisation for use) 

Check in with Customs & Immigration at CrewsInn in Chaguaramas (Trinidad); Scarborough or 

Charlotteville (Tobago) 

Cruise lines 

Carnival, Crystal, Costa, Fred Olsen, Hapag-Lloyd, Holland America, MSC, Oceania Cruises, MV 

Adriana, P&O, Princess, Regent Seven Seas, Saga, Seabourn, Silver Whisper, and Viking 

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Getting around in T&T 

Taxis 

NB: Authorised public taxis have licence 

plates beginning with “H” (for “Hire”) and are 

not metered, so confirm the fare in advance 

Airport transfers: authorised taxis operate 

with a set fares by destination (displayed in 

the arrivals area) 

Private taxis: available at the airports, 

through hotels, and apps like DROP 

“Route taxis” (cars registered as taxis) and 

maxi-taxis (mini-buses painted with brightly 

coloured bands) work specific routes, picking 

up and dropping off passengers along 

the way. They have designated stands in 

Port of Spain, San Fernando, Chaguanas, 

Scarborough, and other main towns 

Buses 

The Public Transport Service Corporation 

(PTSC, ptsc.co.tt) operates buses from Port 

of Spain to most towns, sometimes on an 

“express” basis, and from hubs in Arima, 

Chaguanas, San Fernando, and Scarborough. 

Tickets ($2–12) or travel cards must 

be bought before boarding 

Car rentals 

Local and international companies operate in 

both islands and at both airports 

Ferries 

Inter-island ferry service (Port of Spain– 

Scarborough) operated by Port Authority 

(ttitferry.com), with the fastest ferry taking 

2.5 hours, and the longest roughly 5 hours. 

Tickets: $100 return (adults); $50 (children 

under 12); free for children under three, 

and senior citizens (65+); and $200 one 

way/$350 return for adults travelling with a 

vehicle 

Trinidad Water Taxi: west coast service 

operated by the National Infrastructure 

Development Company (nidco.co.tt). Single 

journeys: 30–45 minutes. Tickets: $15 

(adults). Infants under one and senior 

citizens (65+) travel free on off-peak sailings 

Air bridge 

Caribbean Airlines (625-7200, 

caribbean-airlines.com) operates several 

flights daily. Tickets: US$48 round trip 

(roughly 20 minutes each way) 


87

Money matters 

Money: ABMs (ATMs) and credit/debit 

cards are routinely used 

Currency: Trinidad & Tobago dollar (TT$); 

US$1 = approximately TT$6.8 (floating 

exchange rate) 

Taxes & tipping: 10% room tax + 10% service 

at hotels; 12.5% VAT (value added tax) 

on most goods and services; 10% service 

charge at most restaurants. Tipping optional 

but encouraged 

Driving 

Driving: on the left. Seatbelts are required 

by law 

Speed limits: between 50kph (31mph) and 

100kph (62mph) — be attentive to road 

signs 

Driving permits: visitors can drive for up to 

90 days on a valid foreign licence 

Travel basics 

Communications 

Country phone code: +1 868 

Mobile telephones: bmobile and Digicel 

SIM cards are available for unlocked, GSM 

phones 

WiFi: available at several hotspots, hotels, 

restaurants, and malls. Some PTSC buses 

also provide the facility 

Safety 

Take practical precautions when travelling: note 

emergency numbers; always lock your room/ 

house/vehicle (including windows); don’t wear 

expensive jewellery, and conceal/secure valuables; 

move in groups where possible; avoid 

deserted locations, and be aware of your surroundings. 

If you’re on the road, buckle up, and 

drive defensively 

rapso imaging 

Utilities 

Electricity: 115v/230v, 60Hz 

Water: tap water is safe to drink (boil to be 

doubly sure); bottled water is widely available 

Emergency contacts 

Ambulance (public hospitals): 811 

Coast Guard: 634-4440, 634-8824, 634- 

4439 

EMS (emergency medical services): 624- 

4343 (north Trinidad), 653-4343 (south/ 

central Trinidad), 639-4444 (Tobago) 

Hyperbaric medical facility (decompression 

chamber, Roxborough, Tobago): 660-4744 

x3000 or 660-4000 

Fire Services: 990 

Office of Disaster Preparedness & 

Management Emergency: 511 or 640-1285 

Police Service: in Trinidad, 999 or 555; in 

Tobago, 639-2520 or 639-5590 

Tobago Emergency Relief: 211 

Tufted coquette 

88 

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Capital 

National capital: Port of Spain 

Tobago capital: Scarborough 

T&T in a nutshell 

Climate 

Tropical. Dry season January–May, wet 

June–December 

Located just south of the hurricane belt 

(11°N, 61°W) 

Temperature: 72–95°F (22–35°C); average 

83°F (29°C) 

Highest points 

Trinidad: El Cerro del Aripo (940m/3,085ft) 

Tobago: Main Ridge (549m/1,860ft) 

Size 

Trinidad: 4,828km 2 (1,864 sq miles) or 105 

x 80km (65 x 50 miles) 

Tobago: 300km2 (116 sq miles) or 48 x 

16km (30 x 10 miles) 

Tobago and Trinidad are 33km (21 miles) 

apart 

Trinidad is 10km (7 miles) from Venezuela 

Time zone 

Atlantic Standard Time year-round (GMT/ 

UTC -4, EST +1) 

Government 

Trinidad & Tobago is a parliamentary democracy; 

elections have been held regularly 

since self-government in 1956 

President: Paula-Mae Weekes 

Prime Minister: Dr Keith Rowley 

Ruling party: the People’s National Movement 

(PNM) 

Opposition: United National Congress (UNC) 

Opposition leader: Kamla Persad-Bissessar 


Population & demographics 

Population: 1.4 million (Tobago approx 

61,000) 

Ethnicities: 35% of Indian descent, 34% of 

African descent, 23% mixed 

Religions: 55% Christian (22% Roman 

Catholic), 18% Hindu, 5% Muslim 

Urban populations: Port of Spain 37,000 

(nearly 600,000 along East-West Corridor 

between Chaguaramas and Arima); 

Chaguanas 83,000; San Fernando 49,000; 

Scarborough 17,000 

Official language: English 

Economy 

Major resources: oil and natural gas 

Major industries: petroleum and petroleum 

products, liquefied natural gas (LNG), methanol, 

ammonia, urea, light manufacturing and 

assembly, agriculture, agriprocessing 

Major services: tourism, conference and 

convention facilities, financial services, 

construction, maritime 

Key indicators (2018): GDP per capita approx 

US$17,000; unemployment rate 3.9%. 

The economy contracted by 2.6% for 2017, 

and was projected to grow by approximately 

1% in 2018. 

Sustainable tourism tips 

Buy local goods and souvenirs 

Recycle plastic, glass, cans, paper, cardboard, 

and e-waste through bins at various 

locations, or through collections 

Reduce: turn off electrical devices when 

you don’t need them; avoid plastic bags, 

single-use plastics, and styrofoam; buy and 

consume only what you need; reuse when 

you can 

89

T&T history at a glance 

c 15,000–1,000 BC: islands part of South 

America; settled by Amerindians or 

First Peoples 

1498: Christopher Columbus lands in Trinidad 

on 31 July, claims island for Spanish 

and names it after Catholic Holy Trinity 

1596: Tobago claimed by British 

1627–1650: Courlanders settle Tobago’s west 

coast near Plymouth, and Dutch the 

east 

1699: Trinidad First Peoples rebel against 

Capuchin missionaries (Arena Uprising) 

1757: Trinidad’s Spanish governor moves 

capital to Port of Spain from St Joseph 

1768–9: first Tobago Assembly established; 

Scarborough becomes island’s capital 

1776: oldest forest reserve in western 

hemisphere designated in Tobago 

1781: French seize Tobago, convert it to 

sugar colony 

1783: Spanish governor Chacón’s Cedula de 

Población entices Catholic white and 

free coloured settlers to Trinidad with 

land incentives; rapid capitalisation 

begins 

1797: Trinidad captured by Sir Ralph Abercromby’s 

British fleet 

1801: massive slave uprising in Tobago 

quelled 

1806: first Chinese workers brought to 


1814: Tobago ceded to British under Treaty 

of Paris 

1816: six companies of free blacks from the 

United States (mainly Baptist) settle in 

southern Trinidad, and one in Tobago 

1834–8: slavery abolished in the British Empire, 

leading to apprenticeship (1834) 

then emancipation (1838) 

1834–1917: indentured labour brought to 

Trinidad from other islands, China, 

Portugal, Syria, Lebanon, and India 

1881: Canboulay Riots in Trinidad, in 

response to criminalisation of Carnival 

1884: Hosay Riots in Trinidad; Tobago’s 

sugar industry collapses 

1889–98: Tobago annexed to Trinidad 

1903: Water Riots in Port of Spain 

1908: commercial oil production begins in 

southern Trinidad 

1914: first calypso recorded in Trinidad 

1925: first national elections (limited franchise) 

1935–41: first steelpans emerge in Laventille, 


90 

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1937: oilfield and labour strikes led in southern 

Trinidad by Tubal Uriah “Buzz” 

Butler 

1940: national airline British West Indies Airways 

(BWIA) commences operations 

1941: Chaguaramas peninsula leased to 

United States for 99 years 

1945: public emergence of steelbands (V 

Day celebrations); universal suffrage 

implemented 

1951: repeal of ordinance prohibiting activities 

of Spiritual “Shouter” Baptist faith 

1956: islands win self-government 

1958: islands join Federation of West Indies 

1960: Trinidad campus of University of the 

West Indies (UWI) established 

1962: islands leave Federation, gain independence 

from Britain; Dr Eric Williams 

becomes first prime minister 

1963: Hurricane Flora devastates Tobago; 

Chaguaramas returned to Trinidadian 

control 

1970: “Black Power” uprising in Trinidad 

1974: Garfield Blackman (Ras Shorty I) 

releases first soca album 

1976: islands become a republic in the Commonwealth 

1981: George Chambers (PNM) becomes 

prime minister 

1983: oil prices fall, crippling local economy 

1986: National Alliance for Reconstruction 

(NAR) unseats PNM in national 

elections; Tobagonian ANR Robinson 

becomes prime minister 

1990: attempted coup by Jamaat al Muslimeen 

1995: coalition government between United 

National Congress (UNC) and NAR 

unseats the PNM; Basdeo Panday 

becomes prime minister 

2007: Caribbean Airlines replaces BWIA as 

national carrier; record oil prices fuel 

economic boom 

2010: UNC-led coalition government 

(People’s Partnership) ousts PNM at 

general and local elections under first 

female prime minister, Kamla Persad- 

Bissessar 

2015: oil prices crash, causing economic 

slowdown; PNM, under Dr Keith 

Rowley, wins general elections 

2018: Paula-Mae Weeks becomes the country’s 

first female president 

rapso imaging 


Yachts anchored in Chaguaramas 

91

A glass-bottom boat leaves for 

Buccoo Reef and the Nylon Pool 

ziad joseph 

94 

discovertnt.com

DISCOVER, EXPLORE, DREAM 

Discover the beautiful and unique Island of Tobago. 

Discover the beautiful rainforest, natural waterfalls, Nylon pool and so much more. 

Discover nature at its finest with rare and beautiful orchids, butterflies, and birds. 

Discover relaxation at one of our three pools, beach, spa and fitness center. 

Discover new and delicious food selections at one our three restaurants and cafe. 

Discover Magdalena Grand Beach & Golf Resort, Tobago’s fi nest oceanfront resort. 

Tobago Plantations Estate, Lowlands, Tobago, Trinidad & Tobago, West Indies 

Phone: 868-660-8500 • info@MagdalenaGrand.com 

W W W.MAG DA L E N AGRAND.COM

Tobago 

— the unspoilt paradise 

Welcome to the beautiful island 

of Tobago! Whether you are 

visiting us for a romantic getaway, 

a family adventure, attending 

a special event, or simply a vacation away 

from your daily hassle, we are delighted you have 

chosen to spend some quality time with us in the 

“Capital of Paradise”. 

Our clean, green, safe, and serene island 

possesses an abundance of natural, historical, 

and cultural attractions that satisfy the discerning 

tastes of contemporary travellers seeking 

authentic, distinctive, indigenous experiences. 

If your passion is diving, you are sure to be 

drawn to the colourful marine life in our magnificent 

underwater realm. If you are an outdoor 

enthusiast, the serene and beautiful Main 

Ridge Forest Reserve invites you to explore its 

pristine nature trails and marvel at exotic flora 

and fauna. If our clear sparkling waters entice 

you, then engage your adventurous side with 

exciting watersports, or simply soak up the 

sun in peaceful tranquillity on our uncrowded 

beaches. 

Tobago is also famous for hosting yearround 

festivals and activities that cater to a 

variety of tastes: Tobago Jazz Experience, 

Tobago Heritage Festival, Tobago Blue Food 

Festival, and Goat & Crab Racing Festival, just 

to name a few. 

With a colourful and vibrant history, Tobago 

is a gem of culture and historic diversity that 

brims with adventure. Whatever your pleasure, 

you are far more likely to run short of time than 

things to do in Destination Tobago. 

— The Division of Tourism, Culture & 

Transportation 

courtesy tdc 

Beautiful Buccoo beach 

96 

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Where to stay 

Around Crown Point & 

Scarborough 

Check out the lovely Bananaquit Apartments 

(self-catering studios and lofts); 

Kariwak Holistic Haven (for yoga, natural 

living, and absolutely delicious food); Fountain 

Court Apartments (self-catering apartments); the 

intimate Sunspree Resort (with pool, restaurant, 

and bar); Belleviste Apartments; the Coco Reef 

Resort & Spa (all-inclusive); Crown Point Hotel; 

Sandy Point; and Tropikist Beach Hotel & Resort 

(all-inclusive). 

courtesy kariwak holistic haven 

98 

discovertnt.com

Bananaquit 

APARTMENTS TOBAGO 

Studios and Family Apartments 

close to airport and beaches 

• restaurant 

• kitchenettes 

• air conditioning 

• cable tv 

• free wifi 

• regular 

cleaning 

service 

R ESORT 

L T D 

868 368 3539 

bananaquit.tobago@gmail.com 

www.bananaquit.com 

R ESORT 

L T D 

An Oasis of Serenity 

Pantone Reflex Blue U 

YELLOW 

Plantation Beach Villas 

Ideal for families, 

reunions and intimate weddings 

Tel: (868) 639-9377 | Black Rock, Tobago 

www.plantationbeachvillas.com | info@plantationbeachvillas.com 


99

Lowlands 

Off the Milford Road, find the stunning grounds 

of the Tobago Plantations development. This is 

home to the Magdalena Grand Beach & Golf 

Resort (all-inclusive options, three pools, a kids 

club, several celebrated restaurants, a golf 

course, and a windswept beachfront where turtles 

nest in season); and the Sugar Mill Suites, 

offering bungalows, condos, and villas. 

courtesy magdalena grand beach & golf resort 

Rooms and apartments overlooking 

beach, close to Buccoo Reef and airport 

One And Two Bedroom Apartments • Kitchen 

Dining Room • Living Room • Bathroom 

Washer, Dryer And Iron 

Fully Air Conditioned • Office for Computer Access 

Free Wifi • Spacious Parking • Pool Area 

• Luvinia’s Seafood & Steak Restaurant • 

• Air conditioning, cable TV • 

• Free WiFi • 

• Regular cleaning service • 

100 

#47C Store Bay Feeder Road 

Crown Point Tobago W.I. 

Tel. 1 (868) 479-2075 • Tel. 1 (868) 743-2753 

Email. renatheone@hotmail.com 


office@millersguesthouse.com 

Tel: (868) 660 8371 

Buccoo Point, Tobago


101

Caribbean coast 

You’ll want to check out the rustic and charming 

Miller’s Guest House in Buccoo (with an 

on-site restaurant); the Mt Irvine Bay Resort; 

and — all around Black Rock, a popular site 

for leatherback turtle nesting, in season — the 

beautiful and luxurious Plantation Beach Villas, 

and the Seahorse Inn (both with direct 

access to Stonehaven Bay); Turtle Beach by 

Rex Resorts (right on Great Courtland Bay); 

Birdie’s Nest; Le Grand Courland Resort & 

Spa (adults only); and Hibiscus Heights are 

ever-popular choices, while the opulent, fullservice 

Villas at Stonehaven are perched on 

a hill with magnificent ocean views and lovely 

landscaped grounds. 

Green retreats 

A few of the properties keeping the environment 

top of mind — Castara Retreats and 

Naturalist Beach Resort (also in Castara); 

Cuffie River Nature Resort (near Runnemede); 

Adventure Eco Villas and Top o’ Tobago (in the 

hills above Arnos Vale); Footprints Eco Resort 

(Culloden); Villa Being (Arnos Vale); and for 

divers and birders, Blue Waters Inn and Top 

Rankin Guesthouse (Speyside). 

Castara Retreats 

ALEX TREADWAY, COURTESY CASTARA RETREATS 

102 

discovertnt.com

courtesy caribbean estates, lands and villas 

Buy your place in the sun 

Looking to buy your own piece of Tobago paradise? 

Check out premier agents like Abraham Tobago 

Realty and Caribbean Estates, Lands & Villas. 

STUNNING BEACHFRONT PROPERTIES FOR SALE 

Beautiful Homes & Land for sale 

Vacation Villa Rentals 

Whether you desire a luxury ocean 

front villa or a small retirement 

cottage… or simply wish to spend 

your vacation in paradise, we’ll find 

“your place in the sun” 

www.abrahamrealty.com 

Email: abrahamrealty@gmail.com 

Tel: 868-639-3325 


103

Shopping 

& Leisure 

Spas 

re to stay 

EM Karuna/shutterstock.com 

If you’re in the market for self-care, you’ll want to take in 

what’s on offer at French Secrets Tobago Day Spa; Silk 

Cotton Holiday Home & Wellness Centre; and Kariwak 

Holistic Haven. 

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apso imaging 

Shopping 

For most of your shopping needs, head to the Gulf City 

Lowlands Mall, or the plazas in Crown Point like Shirvan 

Town Plaza, Milford Bay Plaza, Buccoo Town Centre, and 

Shoppes@Westcity. Make sure to visit Peeping Fish for all 

of your beach and holiday wear needs. There are also craft 

stalls at many beaches, including Store Bay. Please don’t 

buy anything made from endangered or environmentally 

sensitive species (eg coral, sea turtles, conch, some snakes, 

some birds). 

SWIMWEAR • FOOTWEAR • SURF GEAR 

12 Mucurapo Rd. 

St. James, Trinidad 

Mon-Fri: 10am - 6pm 

Sat: 10am - 5pm 

D’Colosseum Mall, 

Crown Point, Tobago 

Mon-Sat: 10am - 6pm 

Tel: 1 (868) 639-8666 

Shoppes @ Westcity, 

Canaan, Tobago 

Mon-Sat: 10am - 6pm 

Tel: 1 (868) 631-0263 


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Aisha Sylvester 

— off the beaten path 

Her favourite beaches, sightseeing, and 

waterfall adventures 

QA & 

Aisha 

travel blogger & marketer 

What are your favourite places or experiences in Tobago? 

Tobago might be small but there are so 

many places to see, things to do. I love 

getting into my car with no plan, and 

veering off the main roads just to see what’s 

there, and I get so excited when “what’s there” 

turns out to be amazing. 

My favourite road trip route is along the 

Northside Road. My must-do stops on this route 

include the lookout above Castara, where you 

can soak up a gorgeous view of the beach and 

the village; Castara Waterfall; Englishman’s 

Bay; Glasgow’s Bar for a drink and that postcard 

perfect view of Parlatuvier Bay; and my go-to 

lunch spot, the open deck at Sunshine Café. 

Englishman’s Bay 

rapso imaging 

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sherridan kirk courtesy Aisha Sylvester 

What day/half-day trips or 

tours would you recommend? 

I highly recommend a coastal cruise. They usually last around eight hours, and include snorkelling 

at Arnos Vale reef; swimming at Cotton Bay, a lovely beach that’s only accessible by boat; 

a delicious local lunch on No Man’s Land; and, of course, a mandatory dip in the Nylon Pool. 

Pirate’s Bay 

There are many reasons to love Pirate’s 

Bay — ideal water conditions 

topping the list — but the thing I love 

most is getting there. To approach 

the beach by boat is to get a unique 

view of Charlotteville’s lush coastline 

while riding high on the waves. On 

the other hand, descending the stairs 

through the tall trees and lush vegetation 

leaves you in awe of the island’s 

diverse flora. 


beaches? 

I’m yet to encounter a beach in Tobago that 

I didn’t like. But I absolutely love Buccoo 

beach, Englishman’s Bay, and Pirate’s Bay. I 

hate crowds, and all three of these offer pristine 

stretches of coastline without the clutter. 

Castara Bay, Richmond Bay, and King Peter’s 

Bay are all lovely beaches that allow visitors to 

feel like they’re truly connecting with nature. 

No loud music, no modern infrastructure, and 

no crowds — just the sound of the waves and 

wildlife. 


107

EDITOR’S PICK 

Being With Horses 

If you love animals, the sea, 

and have a soft spot for 

rescued horses with moving 

back-stories, then you’ll 

want to check out Being 

With Horses. They offer 

sunset swim-ride sessions, 

trail rides, picnic rides, 

and horseback weddings. 

being-with-horses.com, 

639-0953 

piotr andrews 

What makes the 

island special? 

A large part of Tobago’s 

charm is its ability to bring 

people closer to nature. Even 

if you’re staying in more developed 

areas, you can find 

yourself almost completely 

off the grid and on a mini 

adventure in a matter of 

minutes! Whether your preference 

is trekking through 

the jungle or snorkelling at 

a reef; diving a shipwreck 

or ATV-ing up a mountainside, 

Tobago offers such a 

wide variety of eco activities 

that anyone who loves being 

outdoors will be able to find 

something that piques their 

interest. 

What are your favourite hikes 

or waterfall treks? 

I’d recommend Argyle Waterfall, the highest and most popular 

waterfall on the island (admission $60 adults, $30 children, 

660-4152). 

For those who prefer a low impact trek but don’t mind 

manoeuvring through thick bushes, the journey to Twin River 

Falls in the Pembroke forest is a bit long, but quite easy. 

No hills, no cliffs, just an overgrown trail and the occasional 

stream-crossing. And for people who want to venture off the 

beaten path without exerting too much energy, a stone’s throw 

off the Northside Road is Castara Waterfall; or take a threeminute 

stroll for a dip in the two pools of Parlatuvier Waterfall. 

The trail to Highland Waterfall in Moriah is one I would 

highly recommend. It’s of moderate difficulty with a few tricky 

spots along the way, but if I can do it with a smile on my face, 

anyone can! I honestly consider it to be the most breathtaking 

waterfall on the island. While other waterfalls occur in steps or 

layers, Highland is one continuous drop with a powerful flow. 

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endan delzin 


Highland Waterfall in Moriah 

109

Pigeon Point jetty 

rapso imaging 


Tour operators 

You can find listings of tour guides and operators at visittobago.gov.tt 

and touroperatorsassociationtt.com, and many hotels and guesthouses 

should also be able to help you choose the best provider for your 

needs. Harris Jungle Tours, Kelton Thomas, Newton George, Eureka 

Natural History Tours, Unique Tours Tobago, and Waterholics are 

among the most notable, or you could rent a car from outfits like 

Econo Car and go exploring on your own! 

• JETSKIS • BANANA BOAT ATTACK 

• COASTLINE / DOLPHIN WATCHING / 

SNORKELLING TOUR 

• GLASS BOTTOM BOAT TOUR 

• BUCCOO REEF AND BBQ 

• SUNSET CRUISE AND BONFIRE 

• PIRATE’S BAY / LOVER’S BAY 

(ISLAND TOUR) ... And more! 

Tel: 868.639.8822 • Mobile: 868.688.7669 | 868.377.7668 

tobagowaterholics @waterholicstobago @waterholics 

Email: tobagowaterholics@gmail.com 

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More beach escapes 

If you prefer the creature comforts of the 

more developed (and sometimes crowded) 

beachfronts, check out Pigeon Point in the 

southwest, with its much-photographed jetty, delicious 

food offerings, and array of watersports 

(entrance fee: $20). 

Store Bay, right near the airport, is a tiny 

but stunning beach, and the launch pad for 

glass-bottom boat tours to Buccoo Reef and 

the Nylon Pool. Don’t miss the delicious dishes 

in the on-site food court and craft stalls selling 

fantastic souvenirs. 

You also can’t go wrong with the beauty 

of Bloody Bay and Parlatuvier Bay further 

up the Caribbean coast, or Speyside and Batteaux 

Bay up in the northeast. Glass-bottom 

boats leave here for tours of Angel Reef and 

Little Tobago (a must for birders). 

Turtle magic on the beach… 

Each March –September, 

add this magical ancient 

sea ritual to your itinerary 

— it is humbling and inspiring 

to witness. 

Each season, five species of 

marine turtles (in particular the 

giant, endangered leatherback; 

hawksbill; and green) come ashore 

to nest. Their adorable offspring 

hatch 6–8 weeks later (starting in 

June), and make a mad dash for 

the open sea. All (and their eggs) 

are vulnerable, and consequently 

legally protected. 

While many of Tobago’s beaches 

see nesting turtles each year, 

leatherbacks come ashore primarily 

on the southwestern coast, and 

hawksbills on the southeast. 

For further information and 

free guided tours contact SOS 

Tobago (Save Our Sea Turtles: 

sos-tobago.org, 328-7351), or a 

reputable tour guide. 

Green turtle at Speyside 

Remember: 

Do not touch or disturb nesting turtles or hatchlings 

(including by using flash photography) 

Do not drive on nesting beaches — the weight of 

the vehicle can crush eggs buried in the sand. 


rapso imaging 

111

Duane Kenny 

— ocean adventurer 

QA & 

Duane 

tour & villa rental operator 

courtesy duane kenny 


watersports activities in Tobago? How 

can visitors get involved? 

What are your 

favourite beaches? 

Mt Irvine for waves, Pirate’s 

Bay for beauty and secret 

snorkelling spots. 

112 

Surfing, stand up paddle, and snorkelling (snorkeltobago.com). 

Surfing is my passion and it trumps everything I have ever 

done. The feeling you get from riding a wave, the connection 

with nature, and the friends you make along the way are why 

I love it. Anybody can surf, they just have to want to get wet 

and have fun. There are a few instructors in the island, and I’m 

happy to teach visitors as well. 

discovertnt.com

What makes the 

island special? 

Uncrowded locations that 

cater to almost every type of 

eco adventure lover — coral 

reefs, the oldest protected 

rainforest in the western 

hemisphere, waterfalls … All 

you need is an adventurous 

spirit and a good guide. 

What sites and experiences do you most 

recommend? 

We offer a night tour — our Bioluminescence Tour (standuppaddletobago.com, 

681-4741) — where we kayak or stand up 

paddle into a lagoon with glowing plankton. It’s like the aurora 

borealis in the sea. It requires a little fitness, but it is one of 

those experiences you will remember for the rest of your life. 

Best time of year is the rainy season, but we get good bio all 

year round. 

If rainforest and birds are your thing, definitely check out 

the rainforest with a guide. If you like hidden beaches, hire 

a fisherman in Charlotteville to take you out to see Pirate’s 

Bay, and Lovers Bay. The guide is the key to really unlock the 

secrets of these locations. 

The coral reef at Cotton Bay, 

accessible only by sea 

brendan delzin 


113


Boons for birders & 

nature lovers 

Corbin Local Wildlife Park 

(Mason Hall) 

Conservationist Roy Corbin has built a wildlife 

sanctuary that houses many of Tobago’s endangered 

animals for reintroduction into the 

wild — boa constrictors, agoutis (including a 

rare albino), opossums, green iguanas, collared 

peccary (nearly extinct in Tobago), and 

the spectacled caiman. 

tobagowildlife.com, 327-4182 

Tobago Cocoa Estate 

(Roxborough) 

Sold by Fortnum & Mason’s in the UK, Tobago 

Cocoa Estate’s chocolate is made exclusively 

from our highly acclaimed Trinitario beans. 

Scheduled tours operate. tobagococoa.com, 

390-2021 

… And great fun for the whole family! 

Little Tobago 

(off Speyside) 

An absolute must for birders, this remote little 

island is where Sir David Attenborough filmed 

frigatebirds hijacking tropicbirds for their fish 

in mid-air. You can take a glass-bottomed boat 

from Blue Waters Inn (Speyside), and on the 

way you can stop off to see the brain coral 

and the Japanese Gardens. In fact, Angel 

Reef is perhaps the island’s finest coral reef. 

rapso imaging 

Green iguana 

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apso imgaging 

Barred antshrike 

rapso imaging 

Trinidad motmot 


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apso imaging 

RAPSO IMAGING 

Adventure Farm & Nature 

Reserve (Arnos Vale) 

In this haven of sustainable tourism, nothing is 

wasted and 52 species of birds can be seen. 

Herbs from the garden are used to prepare 

meals. Everything is powered by solar energy. 

Open from 7am Monday–Saturday, 

639-2839 

Left: white-tailed sabrewing 

Above: Main Ridge Forest Reserve 

Main Ridge Forest Reserve 

The Main Ridge is the backbone of Tobago, a 

spine that runs across two thirds of its surface 

to a height of 876m (1,890ft). This 14,000- 

acre reserve, protected since 1776 and the 

oldest in the western hemisphere, is home to 

210 species of birds, including the rare whitetailed 

sabrewing hummingbird, which is endemic 

to Tobago. The reserve’s 10,000 acres 

of evergreen rainforest have been designated 

by UNESCO as being of Outstanding Universal 

Value. The most famous of the trails is Gilpin 

Trace (5km). Other popular treks are the Atlantic, 

Blue Copper, and Niplig trails. 

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Cuffie River Nature Retreat 

(Runnemede) 

A popular base for birders (up to 80 species 

sighted) and nature lovers, the familyrun 

eco-lodge is remote yet modern and a 

pioneer in sustainable tourism. You can go 

on nature hikes with a very knowledgeable 

guide who will explain everything about the 

island’s birds, agriculture, wildlife, and medicinal 

plants. cuffie-river.com, 660-0505 

rapso imaging 


117

Derek Chung 

— diving guide 

QA & 

DEREK 

dive operator & instructor 

What are the diving conditions 

like in Tobago? 

If someone has never been 

diving before, what do they 

need to get started? 

Try a Discover Scuba Diving course, 

which provides a diving experience 

comprising a short DVD presentation, 

basic skill development and an instructor-guided 

dive on a shallow coral reef. This course only 

takes a few hours and is open to anyone over 10 

years of age. Don’t worry if you are not a strong 

swimmer as this isn’t a requirement. 

Tobago’s diving conditions vary depending on 

the season. Water temperature averages 81– 

82°F (27 –28°C) for most of the year and can 

drop to 79°F (26°C) during January and February. 

Visibility ranges 10–35m (33–115ft), 

with the average in the south being 18m (59ft) 

and 27m (89ft) in the north. It’s important to 

note that while Tobago has gained a reputation 

for currents and drift diving, there are many 

sites with little or no currents which are suitable 

for novice divers. 

courtesy undersea tobago 

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courtesy undersea tobago 

What’s the best time of year, if 

any, to go diving? 

The best time of year for visibility would be 

November–May although fish activity remains 

consistent year round. 

How is Tobago different from 

other Caribbean locations? 

Typically Tobago does not enjoy the water 

clarity of her more northerly Caribbean 

neighbours due to the influence of the Orinoco 

River in Venezuela. However, this also gives 

Tobago greater density and diversity of both 

coral reefs and marine life, trading a bit of 

visibility for more nutrient-rich waters. 

What can people expect to 

see on a dive? 

You’ll find all the colourful Caribbean fish that 

live on coral reefs together with moray eels, 

octopi, batfishes, stingrays, sharks, eagle 

rays, barracuda, and turtles — which are always 

a big favourite! 

Where are some of best dive 

sites around Tobago? 

Mt Irvine Wall and Arnos Vale Reef (for beginners); 

Flying Reef, Castara Reef, Keleston 

Drain, and Japanese Gardens (intermediate); 

Maverick Wreck, Diver’s Thirst, Bookends, 

Picker, and Diver’s Dream (advanced). 


119


Diving sites & sights 

More than 60 dive sites — from easy 

to expert — await the diving enthusiast: 

fringing reefs, bank reefs, patch reefs, 

outcrops, pillars and headlands 

These sites attract tiger, bull, nurse, 

reef, blacktip, hammerhead, lemon, and 

whale sharks; stingrays and manta rays; 

and a host of colourful tropical fish! 

Average costs 

Discover Scuba Diving PADI course: US$95 

Single dives trips: US$50–$80 

Two-dive morning trip (for certified divers): 

US$95–US$125 (inclusive of equipment hire). 

Most also have packages for six or 10 dives 

Snorkelling trip: starting at US$20 

Contact Undersea Tobago (underseatobago.com, 

680-4209), or a member of 

the Association of Tobago Dive Operators 

(tobagoscubadiving.com) for more. 

Aisha 

travel blogger & marketer 

My favourite dive on the island 

is the Maverick, a purposesunk 

wreck off the coast of Mt Irvine. 

It’s the perfect example of man and 

nature working together to create 

something positive, unique, and sustainable. 

Over the course of two decades, 

coral formations have covered 

the frame of the ship almost completely, 

creating a home for various forms of 

marine life, and it’s always amazing to 

watch them exist within and around this 

man-made structure. 

Coco Reef Resort • Magdalena Grand Beach Resort 

• Mt Irvine Resort 

Tel: 868.631.2626 • E: dive@underseatobago.com 

www.underseatobago.com 

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Jared Prima 

— an eye for culture & 

festivals 

QA & 

Jared 

aCTor, writer & director 

Which Tobagonian festivals 

are the most special for you? 

It’s a tough choice but the Tobago Heritage 

Festival (mid-July to 1 August) would be my 

favourite. This is a two-week festival which 

presents all of Tobago’s history and traditions to 

a viewing audience. It takes patrons to the various 

villages to engage in the practices of my elders 

and ancestors. This festival is also ripe with 

stories, characters, even superstitions that would 

be fuel to any Caribbean writer and filmmaker 

like me. In 2018, visitors tasted traditional foods 

and learnt to make some of our sweets; children 

enjoyed tours all over Tobago and pulled seine, 

learnt dances and songs; patrons were able to 

come dressed in wedding wear and be part of 

the Tobago Ole Time Wedding procession. This 

time of year is the one time to put a Tobagonian 

stamp in your passport and to lose yourselves in 

our rich cultural history. 

What are your favourite heritage 

sites and experiences? 

Beyond the beaches, we have our Mystery 

Tombstone (Plymouth) with such a cryptic 

inscription that it baffles and intrigues tourists. 

We have massive silk cotton trees, but 

they must be visited after hearing all the stories 

of their mystical power! Then, it would 

be remiss of me not to advocate for visitors 

to go to Charlotteville and escape into a 

new world, right on the island. Driving down 

into the village is like entering a whole new 

paradise. The people, the beautiful beaches 

and landscapes, the food! It is definitely a trip 

worth making. 

courtesy THA 


121

Tell us about Tobago 

Carnival 

Carnival in Tobago is not as massive as it 

is in Trinidad. It is a more intimate display 

that focuses more on traditional mas and 

J’Ouvert. There is also a massive upsurge 

in the number of mud mas players on Carnival 

Tuesday — it seems that Tobago is now 

the place to come play mud mas! 

You can catch goat racing action at 

Easter time and during the Heritage 

Festival each July 

What do you recommend for 

live arts and entertainment? 

Performances may be more prevalent during 

one of the festivals on the island, but during 

cruise season (November–April), characters 

and other performers can be seen lining the 

streets in Scarborough and Crown Point dancing 

and entertaining all visitors. The Tobago 

THETA Company, one of Tobago’s most creative 

and dynamic performance companies, 

usually posts information on their Facebook 

page about their pop-up performances, living 

museums, and plays at various spots on the 

island. 

courtesy THA 

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The Heritage Festival’s Ole Time 

Wedding procession in Moriah 

courtesy THA 


123


Blue Food Festival 

Dasheen and other root crops take centre 

stage each October in Bloody Bay, L’Anse 

Fourmi, and Parlatuvier as these villages 

pay homage to the versatility and utility of 

“blue food”. Some varieties of dasheen can 

turn blue or indigo when cooked, hence the 

term — which now is used to describe all 

root crops. For the festival, all of the dasheen 

plant is used to prepare bread, cookies and 

sweets, ice-cream, and even lasagne! 

Dragon Boat Festival 

Each June at Pigeon Point, senior and junior 

teams from T&T compete over a weekend 

for dragon boating supremacy. Count on 

good food and music too. 

More highlights of the festival calendar 

Goat & Crab Racing Festival 

Prized goats and crabs compete down a 

special 110m (360ft) track to the finish line, 

hustled on by barefoot “jockeys” who sprint 

behind their charges, holding the colourfully 

attired goats on long ropes, and the crabs on 

short strings. The showdown happens each 

Easter Monday and Tuesday at Mt Pleasant 

and Buccoo (the main location). There’s a 

repeat at the Heritage Festival. 

Great Fete Weekend 

This annual party fest takes place in late July/ 

early August. Five straight nights of partying 

until dawn at Pigeon Point and other locations, 

with DJs, sound systems, and live entertainment. 

Be mindful of turtles and turtle nests as 

you party! 

Daniel Knecht, courtesy Tobago Mountain Bike Tours 

May MTB Madness attracts mountain 

bikers from around the world 

rapso imaging 

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Great Race 

First held in 1969, each August this 

speedboat race (about 185km/115 

miles) starts at the Port of Spain waterfront 

early in the morning and ends 

in Scarborough two to three hours later. 

Naturally, a rollicking beach party 

ensues. 

courtesy tha 

Harvest festivals 

One Sunday each month, one or more 

villages in Tobago host a Harvest Festival. 

Once an annual thanksgiving for 

the year’s harvest, in many ways these 

vibrant celebrations are the core of 

community life. Days begin with church 

services, followed by preparing and 

feasting on delicious local dishes. 

Tobago Jazz Experience 

Each April, jazz takes over with events 

(some free) in Speyside, Signal Hill, Scarborough, 

Castara, and Pigeon Point. The 

event showcases some of the best in local 

and regional music alongside international 

stars. 

discovertnt.com 125

The best dining 

spots & hangouts 

Roundtable 

Aisha 

travel blogger & 

marketer 

erwinova/shutterstock.com 

My absolute favourite restaurant on the 

island is Seahorse Inn, Restaurant & Bar. 

The food there is impeccable and consistent. 

Dinner there is always a treat because you get 

to dine in the beautiful, rustic, well-appointed 

open-air dining area and listen to the waves 

crashing nearby. My favourite meal on the 

menu is the lamb (yum!) and I’m obsessed 

with their pineapple cheesecake. 

My favourite bar on the island is 

Glasgow Bar in Parlatuvier. Bago Bar on 

the drive to Pigeon Point, as well as Renmar’s 

inside Pigeon Point Heritage Park, 

are great options. Waves at Grafton has 

a great location and the perfect beach 

vibe. If I’m going for a more refined experience, 

I head to Time to Wine in Shirvan 

Plaza; the decor is rustic-meets-trendy 

and you can enjoy a glass/bottle of wine 

and cheese platter all for a great price. 

Other favourite spots of mine 

are: The Fish Pot in Black Rock, where 

you get delicious seafood and the best 

coconut cream cheesecake I’ve ever 

tasted; Jemma’s Treehouse Restaurant in 

Speyside where you can get a delicious 

spread of local dishes, including their 

amazing breadfruit pie; Traditions Bar at 

Pigeon Point where I’ve eaten the best 

curry and paratha on the island (seriously); 

Suckhole in Charlotteville; and 

Sunshine Café in Bloody Bay — on Sundays 

she offers up a Sunday spread that 

includes some of the best curried shrimp 

I’ve ever tasted! 

126 


Pan-fried snapper with tempura 

vegetables and herb topping

zi3000/shutterstock.com 

Jared 

aCTor, writer & director 

Skewers of grilled vegetables and meat. 

I like Café Bistro on 

Store Bay Local Road; Bar- 

Code Sports Bar in Scarborough; 

and Overhang Bar at 

Crown Point, which has a nice 

kerbside grill. Honourable 

mention: Fairways Restaurant 

& Golf Lounge at Tobago Plantations 

is good! 



entrepreneurs 

La Tartaruga is the best 

for fine Italian dining. Also 

check out Shore Things Café 

& Crafts — the cake is great. 

Hit Store Bay for some of the 

best curried crab and dumpling 

as well as the coocoo and 

callaloo with ground provisions 

(yeah, it’s heavy on the 

carbs but worth it!). 


127

Duane 

tour & villa rental 

operator 

courtesy tdc 

Crab, callaloo and coocoo is a signature 

Tobagonian dish 

These days fresh fish cooked with 

friends on a beach is my favourite, but small 

restaurants like Shore Things in Lambeau, 

Caribbean Kitchen in Castara, or Suckhole 

in Charlotteville are my favourites. You can’t 

miss Tobago Chocolate Delights at Shore 

Things, if you are a chocolate fan. Sunset 

beers at Surfers Restaurant & Bar on Mt 

Irvine, and later that night Revs Steakhouse 

& Bar is my go-to. 

T HE S EAHORSE I NN 

R estaurant & Bar 

BEACHSIDE DINING AT ITS BEST 

Grafton Beach Road, Black Rock 


(868) 639 0686 

seahorseinntobago@gmail.com 

WWW.SEAHORSETOBAGO.COM 

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discovertnt.com

FULL SERVICE 

WEDDING AND 

EVENT CATERING 

HORS D’OEUVRES 

DINNER 

DESSERT 

WEDDING CAKE 

868.790.8030 

niceandsweettgo@gmail.com 

www.niceandsweettgo.com 

niceandsweettgo 


129

Nigel 


Jade Monkey and The 

Shade are all-night spaces 

that revel in the energy that 

comes alive at night. Island 

Crashers Festival in Pigeon 

Point is a secret no more, 

and a must-do fete for a 

younger cohort. 


More dining options 

Check out Skewers (a halal Middle Eastern grill with a 

Trini flavour), Rooster’s for yummy fried chicken, and Il 

Portico Italian Pizzeria for delicious pizza (all in Crown 

Point); and Bake my Day in Shirvan Plaza for soups, salads, 

sandwiches, and delicious desserts. If you’re looking 

to have an event catered, make sure to check Kerry’s 

(niceandsweettgo.com)! 

More liming options 

Keep an eye out for what’s on at the Shaw Park Complex 

(shaw-park.org), and check out Dream Nightlife (Scarborough) 

— the new club on the block! You’ll also be able 

to catch the latest films at MovieTowne in Lowlands; live 

music at various hotels; and the infamous Sunday School 

street party, every Sunday night in Buccoo from 9pm. 

Roosserie & Grill PLUS 

Roosserie Chicken 

Pork Chops | Baby Back Ribs 

Garlic Chicken | BBQ Pigtail 

Grilled Fish | Jerk Wings 

Buffalo Wings 

and more 

Located at Pelican Plaza, 

Milford Road, Crown Point, 

Tobago, W.I. 

Tel. (868) 639-8563 

Sister outlets 

ANR Robinson airport 

639 5000 

Shirvan Plaza 

631 1000 

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Laura 


Tobago (not Trinidad) 

is where the top parties take 

place during the year: Island 

Crashers, three days of parties 

targeted to the 16–24 

crowd, and Great Fete weekend 

which sees performances 

by top local, regional, and 

international acts. A great 

Ash Wednesday cool down is 

Candy Coated’s Blush. 

courtesy candy coated events 


131

Map Key (applies to all maps) 

Police Station 

Gas Station 

Waterfall 

Hospital 

Bird Watching 

Sailing & boat tours 

Turtle Nesting 

Golf Course 

Fort 

Shopping Centre 

Scuba Diving 

Airport 

Lighthouse 

Place of interest 

Surfing 

Beach with 

Restrooms 

Food Available 

Swamp 

Caves 

Highway 

Museum 

Planned 

Highway 

Lifeguard on Duty 

Major roadway 

Englishman's Bay 

Parlatu 

Ba 

Castara Bay 

Parr 

King Peter's Bay 

Castara 

Store Bay 

Ft Milford 

Pigeon Pt 

Crown Point 

BUCCOO REEF & 

NYLON POOL 

Bon Accord 

Lagoon 

N 

Buccoo 

Bay 

Milford Rd 

ANR Robinson 

Intl Airport 

Stonehaven Bay 

Mt Irvine Bay 

Canoe Bay 

Turtle Beach 

Great Courland Bay 

n R d 

Sh irv a 

Ft Bennett 

Mt Irvine 

Buccoo 

Gulf City 

Arnos Vale Bay 

LOWLANDS 

Black Rock 

Grafton Sanctuary 

Patience Hill 

Signal Hill 

Plymouth 

Bethel 

Claude Noel Highway 

Culloden Bay 

Arnos 

Vale 

Plymouth Rd 

Lambeau 

Little Rockly 

Bay 

Culloden 

Les Coteaux 

Adventure 

Farm & Nature 

Reserve 

Rockly 

Bay 

Northside Rd 

Scarborough 

Mall 

Moriah 

Mason Hall 

Runnemede 

Craig Hall 

Ft King George 

Bacolet Bay 

Bacolet Point 

Mt Dillon 

Mt St George 

Cuffie River Nature 

Retreat 

Barbados Bay 

SCARBOROUGH 

Hill 

132 

discovertnt.com

St Giles Islands 

Sisters 

Rocks 

Man-o'- 

War Bay 

Pirate's 

Bay 

Flagstaff Hill 

vier 

y 

ot Hill 

sborough Dam 

Bloody Bay 

Parlatuvier 

MAIN RIDGE FOREST RESERVE 

Pembroke 

Rainbow 

Waterfall 

Glamorgan 

Richmond 

L'Anse Fourmi 

Argyle 

Roxborough 

Falls 

Bellevue 

Belle Garden 

Prince's Bay 

Richmond 

Great House 

Carapuse Bay 

W i n d w a r d R d 

King's Bay 

Delaford 

Richmond 

Island 


Cocoa 

Estate 

Charlotteville 

King's Bay 

Delaford 

Bay 

Speyside 

Blue 

Waters 

Tyrrel's 

Bay 

Goat 

Island 

Little Tobago 

Goldsborough 

Goodwood 

Pinfold Bay 

Granby Point 



133

eyond ordinary... 

...Explore the extraordinary Caribbean island. 

Unspoilt, untouched, undiscovered Tobago 

TobagoBeyond.com | #101ReasonsTobago

Discover Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide 2019 (issue #30)

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