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CEN AUS Q1 2018

BLACKBOOK IN THE KNOW

BLACKBOOK IN THE KNOW Global Gourmand On our culinary radar: three Asian hot spots and a new Australian flavour of the moment, plus the best epicurean tomes. By ALEXANDER LOBRANO Aged mandarin sorbet, peanut soup and halwa Kanzuri risotto, carabinero, 25-year-old balsamic vinegar and nasturtium leaf NEW-AGE SINGAPORE “It’s crossroads cooking that bridges science and craft,” says the Brazil-born, Singapore-based chef Ivan Brehm about the dishes he prepares in the open kitchen of Nouri, the new 40-seater restaurant he opened last May after leaving the kitchen at Bacchanalia, where he won his first Michelin star. Brehm arrived in Singapore after a remarkable globetrotting career that began with culinary school in Brazil and the Culinary Institute of America, followed by stints in the kitchen at Per Se in New York, Mugaritz in Spain, Hibiscus in London, and then four years as the development chef in the experimental kitchen at Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck. This distinguished CV to one side, he has an angelic style all his own, which comes through in the regularly changing roster of dishes that compose his five- or seven-course tasting menus. Standouts from a recent meal included brilliantly original plates with unexpected juxtapositions of flavours and textures, including a starter of salad leaves with spiced cashew cream, trout roe and pickled lemon, and grouper prepared in two different ways – one version of the fish with cultured Sarawak green pepper and wild ginger kinilaw, and the other with coriander oil, charred pickled carrot and black pepper sauce. Brehm’s creativity always demonstrates a certain serenity and steely gastronomic logic, since there’s never anything affected or discordant about his cooking. The dining room itself is a pleasantly relaxed place, and service is flawless. nouri.com.sg PHOTOS PHOTOS CXXXXXXXXX © NOURI 38 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM

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