British Travel Journal | Autumn 2019

© VISITSCOTLAND / PAUL

© VISITSCOTLAND / PAUL TOMKINS / KENNY LAM towering eight storey houses into an internal courtyard where, in a corner tower stands the Writer’s Museum. Here you can discover all manner of literary relics. There is a whole basement devoted to Robert Louis Stevenson which includes his boots and cap, and a wardrobe that belonged to his family (built by one Deacon Brodie whose infamous double-life in Edinburgh inspired Stevenson to write Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde). Cutting through another passageway, this time under Gladstone’s Land, a six storey house built in 1727, brings you out on to the Royal Mile.This sequence of ancient roads links Holyrood Palace, the Queen’s residence in Edinburgh, with the castle. Turn right and walk up to the castle itself and you will pass many shops selling cut-price cashmere, tartan and whisky, as well as “Boswell’s Court” where the great biographer was said to have dined with his subject, Dr Johnson. Suddenly there is the forecourt of the castle, a huge squat impregnable fortification built “The narrow path passes under one of Edinburgh’s towering eight storey houses into an internal courtyard where, in a corner tower stands the Writer’s Museum.” on top of an old volcano. The view on each side of this apron is panoramic, but on the left hand - southern - side you can see the towers of George Heriot’s School, which is said to have inspired local author, JK Rowling with the idea of Hogwarts. Leaving the castle, take the steps known as Wynd North down to Johnston Terrace and then further down still through Upper Bow, a convoluted stone staircase that leads to Victoria Street. This new, gradual incline of a road was built in the 1830s to make western access to Edinburgh less of a climb. Gaily painted, Victoria Street is one of the grandest and yet most colourful terraces in Edinburgh. It rises seven storeys high and contains shops like the fashionable tweed merchants Walker Slater and the famous Whisky Shop as well as a very good basic Edinburgh drinking den known as Bow Bar. From here climb up Victoria Street and to your right, over George IV Bridge you’ll find the National Museum of Scotland and opposite it the Elephant House Café where JK Rowling wrote Harry Potter. Turn left and you’ll come back to the Royal Mile and St Giles’ Cathedral whose remarkable steeple is topped by a coronet that is based on the medieval crown of the Kingdom of Scotland. u P L A N N E R WHERE TO EAT THE SHIP ON THE SHORE When Murray Georgeson began this fish restaurant in 2006 in rundown Leith he had no idea he’d spearhead a revival of Edinburgh’s old dockland and eventually create a culinary icon. If you like seafood, book a table in this bohemian diner with its splendid seafood platters and original art. (24-26, Shore) theshipontheshore.co.uk BRASSERIE PRINCE BY ALAIN ROUX The new all-day brasserie at the Balmoral Hotel is a coproduction between hotelier Sir Rocco Forte and Alain Roux, son of Michel Roux and chef patron of the three-Michelinstarred Waterside Inn. The décor is a stylish – but not slavish – homage to the Parisian bistro. (1 Princes Street) roccofortehotels.com LE DI-VIN In 2008 this Polish oratory near the Caledonia Hotel was converted into a restaurant and a dramatic wine bar. Over the entrance is a giant monochrome mural celebrating the Auld Alliance of France and Scotland. Look out for Mary Queen of Scots and Sean Connery on one side and Dumas Pére and Brigitte Bardot on the other. (9 Randolph Place) ledivin.co.uk 86 BritishTravelJournal.com

BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL Loves... N E W ! YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE... BELMOND ROYAL SCOTSMAN ADVENTURES UNDER THE STARS Scotland’s only luxury sleeper train, announces bespoke excursions that takes guests off the rails and into the wilds of Scotland. Guests can now tailor their itinerary by choosing from a range of activities including stargazing under some of the darkest skies in Europe in the Cairngorms; hiking the gorges of Aviemore, canoeing on Loch Ness, clay pigeon shooting at Rothiemurchus Estate or teeing off for golf at some of Scotland’s most famous links courses. Departing from Edinburgh’s Waverley Station, Belmond Royal Scotsman travels on circular routes through the heart of the Highlands. With only 40 passengers on board, the train replicates a ‘Country House on Wheels’ and has two, three- or four-night itineraries. belmond.com VISIT THE ROYAL YACHT BRITANNIA A visit to Edinburgh is simply not complete without a tour of this iconic ship. The Royal Yacht Britannia - Her Majesty The Queen’s former floating palace, where Prince Charles and Princess Diana honeymooned, and where the young princes William and Harry spent their school holidays sailing the Western Isles of Scotland. Today a museum, voted as Scotland’s Best Attraction for over 10 years - and it’s clear to see why it’s fabulously brilliant. Visitors are welcomed to step on-board and explore for themselves the yacht where Presidents Mandela, Reagan and Clinton were wined and dined, and celebrities like Liz Taylor and Frank Sinatra, (or more recently, Zara Philips and Mike Tindall) have been entertained. There are five decks of the yacht to explore while listening to the super-informative and engaging audio. From the gleaming Engine room to The Sun Lounge, Her Majesty The Queen's favourite room, and where she would enjoy breakfast and afternoon tea. Allow time to enjoy a champagne lunch or tea and scones in the Royal Deck Tea Room with its panoramic views over the River Forth and enjoy the delicious menu, all prepared on board in the original Royal Galleys by Britannia’s team of chefs. royalyachtbritannia.co.uk YOU CAN EVEN HIRE THE STATE DRAWING, STATE DINING ROOM OR THE OFFICERS' WARDROOM FOR PRIVATE EVENTS, WHERE EVERYTHING I S REPLICATED TO THE SAME HIGH STANDARDS AS WHEN BRITANNIA WAS IN R O Y A L SERVICE WITH EXCEPTIONAL CUISINE AND FINE WINES SERVED BY BRITANNIA’S BUTLERS! BritishTravelJournal.com 87