BLACKBOOK IN THE KNOW G
BLACKBOOK IN THE KNOW G L O GOURMAND B A L Manila by the Forkful An international tableau attracts diners to the tables of the city’s established favourites and delectable newcomers. Carrie Hutchinson pulls up a chair Top Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio reveals the secrets of a cuisine that is making the world sit up and take notice. phaidon.com Above: orangemarinated duck breast with pumpkin puree from Old Manila at The Peninsula; left: eggs and soft taco combination at A’Toda Madre T he fast-moving capital of the Philippines is making waves on the food scene for reasons other than the mouthwatering local dish, lechon (stuffed and roasted suckling pig, which is always worth a try). Airport food is rarely enticing, but at Blackbird (blackbird.com.ph) Scottish chef Colin Mackay is changing that notion. His gleaming space is located in the old Makati Airport. It’s the place to see and be seen – and, of course, dine on contemporary Asian and European dishes. Try prawn Scotch eggs served with betel leaves and coconut chilli sambal or crab cakes with green apple, radish and mustard slaw. With its 27th-floor setting, Black Sheep (blacksheepbgc.com) pairs chic decor with stunning panoramas. Each night, two separate set menus by chef Jordy Navarra feature new renditions of classic Filipino dishes, from smoked quail egg with crispy chicken skin to prawn fried in a spring roll wrapper and served with prawn head mayonnaise. Elsewhere in the capital, top-notch Italian is on offer C U L I N A R Y P A G E - T U R N E R S Twenty-five years on, Marco Pierre White’s seminal book is reissued, featuring the Briton’s outspoken opinions alongside his recipes. octopusbooks.co.uk at Finestra (solaireresort. com), with its crystal chandeliers, deep velvet banquettes and tempting handmade pasta. The Peninsula Hotel’s signature restaurant, Old Manila (manila.peninsula.com), had a revamp last year. New chef Ricardo Acquista brings a contemporary European sensibility to the menu, with dishes like the impressive smoked Mediterranean sea bass served under a glass dome. Spain comes to Manila at Vask (vaskmanila.com), where in the main room pintxos and tapas, both traditional (Iberian pork croquettes and chorizo tortilla) and contemporary (sous-vide egg with porcini and onion foam, foie gras on mango toast), are the order of the day. There’s also the option of going nuevo in the gallery, where a degustation menu is served. For the night owls, cosy tequila bar A’Toda Madre ( $ atodamadre.com. ph) dishes up excellent, authentically flavoured soft tacos, elotes callejeros (the Mexican street fare of grilled corn on the cob with butter and spices) and ceviche until 2 am. France’s three- Michelin-starred Anne-Sophie Pic provides a guide to classic meals, cooking for kids, welcoming guests and beyond. jacquismallpub.com PHOTOS FROM TOP: © THE PENINSULA MANILA, © A’TODA MADRE ; BOOKS: COURTESY OF THE PUBLISHERS 38 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM CONTACT CENTURION SERVICE FOR BOOKINGS
