PHOTOS © VAN CLEEF &
PHOTOS © VAN CLEEF & ARPELS the special gems that VC&A sources from around the world and makes the centrepieces of major designs. Highlights include the Burmese ruby of almost four carats adorning the Filtro d’amore ring with its ruby and diamond ribbons symbolising the lovers’ intertwined destinies; the magnificent 42.86ct Sri Lankan sapphire on the detachable pendant of the Maiolica diamond necklace symbolising the blue and white ceramics of Verona palazzos; the rare purplepink Sri Lankan sapphire (representing the merging of red and blue) that centres the Matrimonio necklace with its mix of wedding-ring circles and geometric lozenges on the detachable clip; and the Giardino necklace with a carved, hexagonal Colombian emerald of over 80 carats symbolising both the lovers’ short-lived hopes and the gardens of Verona. The more figurative pieces in the collection are no less imaginative. An undisputed star is the Balcone clip, a depiction of Juliet’s balcony with diamond windows and tumbling foliage in emeraldsand tsavorites; the reverse shows the lovers in engraved gold, a secret touch for the wearer. The Reticella necklace is also notably ornate, a modern-day bejeweled ruff that includes two D flawless, pear-shaped diamonds, each between six and seven carats yet so integrated into the complex design that they do not dominate as such investment stones can. The other standout feature of the collection is VC&A’s craftsmanship, as apparent here as on the historic pieces from the house’s private collection displayed at the new Sydney flagship store’s 1906 room, named after the brand’s founding year, and which is hosting an exhibition of iconic Art Deco pieces through December. Classic techniques in the new collection include the firm’s patented Mystery Setting, where no metal is visible, as Clockwise from top left: white-gold Filtro d’amore ring set with one cushion-cut ruby and diamonds; the Renaissance-inspired Reticella diamond necklace; the white- and rose-gold Balcone clip, featuring emeralds, garnets and diamonds; the Matrimonio necklace in the ruby Merli bracelet reflecting Verona’s battlements, and the complex layering of gems with hardstones such as lapis lazuli in the Matrimonio necklace. The vivid leaves with ruby cabochons of the Night or Day clip, meanwhile, tell their own intense story: the red and blue of Montague and Capulet are intermixed with secret symbols of day and night – sun and moon, nightingale and lark – on the reverse, representing the end of the lovers’ night. But nothing in the collection is as evocative as the 3D Romeo and Juliet clips in worked gold and gems with the finest detail like Romeo’s sword hilt and the tiny puff shoulders of Juliet’s gown. Intensely emotive but also richly decorative, the two figures perfectly embody the firm’s technical and artistic mastery – as well as the deep romance of the namesake pair. vancleefarpels.com • CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM 39
Style & Beauty Object Lesson A Fresh Start The cult Italian design duo Dimore Studio injects a modern edge into Dior’s traditional homeware collection. By Dan Thawley Dimore Studio for Dior Plexiglasand-gold vase and ashtray 40 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM
