BLACKBOOK THE TASTE Sara Kramer, left, and Sarah Hymanson, cofounders of Kismet Broad City In LA’s innovative culinary scene, a woman’s place is running the kitchen. By CHRISTINE MUHLKE Sweet potato with tahini, shishito peppers, mustard greens and harissa vinaigrette at Simone From the strip-mall fermentation lab Baroo (baroola.strikingly. com) to the futuristic finedining experience of Destroyer (destroyer.la), Los Angeles’s restaurant scene is having a moment, one defined at every level by fearless experimentation. The cuisine – from Californian kaiseki to a rethinking of classic Jewish – is diverse, the neighbourhoods varied, and if any common denominator stands out, it is the creative women helming so many of the new restaurants. Whether they grew up in LA or were lured west by superior produce and favourable rents, these chefs are putting their stamp on California cuisine. In contrast to the restaurant scene in New York, this path was cleared decades ago. Nancy Silverton rose from pastry chef at Spago in the 1980s to create Campanile and La Brea Bakery (labreabakery.com) before establishing her beloved Mozza PHOTOS FROM TOP: BRANDON HARMON, ALIZA J. SOKOLOW 22 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM CONTACT CENTURION SERVICE FOR BOOKINGS
