|Places| F or decades, Lake Como has thrived on that most tenuous of tightropes: a luxury brand that is both aristocratically aspirational and wildly popular. It is the Louis Vuitton of destinations. Implausible. Charming. And always crowded. Which is to say: every day spent on these steep, tree-lined banks is infused with glamour, some just more so than others. At even the most basic hostelries, you’re still at Como, free to enjoy the spectacular views and dine in any of the numerous family-run enotecas and the six nearby Michelin-star restaurants. The best hotels are tremendous repositories of sophistication whose decor and indulgences compete on a global scale. And, at the very top, the one thing in this rarefied sanctuary that is prized above all else is, of course, not a thing at all but rather an experience: it is that prototypical dolce vita atmosphere, equal parts louche and loving, that can only arise at a wonderfully decadent, multiday house party. Invitations to such gatherings, and the villas where they are hosted, are not easy to come by, but the just-opened Passalacqua delivers a remarkable approximation – and brings something entirely new to Como. The 24-key resort was dreamed up by Valentina De Santis and her parents, Paolo and Antonella, who already own one of the lake’s premier properties, Grand Hotel Tremezzo. They bought the Passalacqua estate at auction in 2018 from American investment banker Jim Cantwell – who extensively restored the 18th-century villa and grounds during his nearly two decades there – which meant the hotel team, lead by Valentina, could spend their renovation budget (some €20 million) on crafting every detail of their paradise exactly as they imagined it. She certainly has had practice: under Valentina’s stewardship over the past decade, the Grand Hotel has become even grander, adding something new each season: an entire floor dedicated to eight rooftop suites in 2012; the three-storey standalone T Spa in 2016; and, among other features, the beach club and super-chic waterside restaurant that boast some of the best views on the lake. At Passalacqua, the new refinements have the compelling glow of not just careful attention but actual love: each bespoke Murano glass chandelier complements the room in which it hangs; the lace curtains bear wistful images of numerous Como landmarks; the boxes that hold the retractable TVs are the pride of a local craftsman. All the above were specially commissioned by Valentina, and the list of such bespoke pieces goes on and on – and they are, even more impressively, often in conversation with the remarkable history of the property. So, for example, the Bellini suite, where its namesake composer wrote two of his bestknown operas, Norma and La Sonnambula, boasts a beautiful piano in its jaw-dropping music room. “Every corner of the property has been dreamed and created from the heart,” explains Valentina, The blue dining room features a chandelier by Florentine firm Il Bronzetto 28 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM
