Centurion United Kingdom Winter 2023

|Places| Biz

|Places| Biz İstanbul’s elegant terrace Istanbul. “We will reintroduce the spirit of old Istanbul, which encompasses manners, modesty, elegance and grace in a totally new setting,” says its founder, the successful Turkish entrepreneur Menderes Utku. “We also want to give much-needed hope to the inhabitants of this city,” he adds, “otherwise global brands will take over and leave us defenceless.” Given the challenges one faces living in this city of 16 million – endless traffic, overcrowding, rising inflation and political pressures, to name a few – it is true that the locals are in need of some extra hope and joy these days. As in many places around the globe, here, too, art offers a coping mechanism. A plethora of young art spaces are popping up every month and wellestablished yet always exciting institutions like Salt, Arter, Müze Gazhane and Istanbul Modern are offering creative oases. It is not surprising to find long queues in front of exhibition openings even on regular weekdays. “The Turkish art scene is currently undergoing a remarkably dynamic revival, marking one of the most vibrant periods in decades. An array of talented artists are engaging in both local and global platforms, achieving resounding success,” says Koza Güreli Yazgan, the creative director of the recently renovated Zeyrek Çinili Hamam. Originally built in 1540 as the Turkish bath of Kösem Sultan – a wife and mother of sultans who effectively ruled the empire for decades – this historic hammam is now repurposed as a cultural destination with restored baths showcasing contemporary art installations. This autumn, Çinili Hamam hosted a unique exhibition, Healing Ruins. Taking inspiration from the building’s past and the bath’s imposing architecture, the exhibition will grapple with themes of ruin, history, and healing. Another ambitious newcomer to cultural life in Istanbul is Artİstanbul Feshane, which opened its doors this summer with a much-discussed exhibition, causing an uproar among the conservative circles of the city. Artİstanbul Feshane is now one of the largest cultural centres in Europe, spanning over an area of 8,000 square metres. Renovated after years of meticulous work by the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality (IBB), this massive structure was once the most important industrial site of the late Ottoman era. “In cooperation with Tate Modern, we will bring a curated selection of artworks from London, to be followed by the Mediations Biennale from Poland,” explains Oktay Özel, the head of the Cultural Heritage Directorate at IBB. “We want to use this space as the meeting point of different artists and diverse points of views.” In a city where radical change is the norm, it has become more important than ever to protect these historic sites and tell their stories with a novel outlook. “We want our cultural heritage to establish new connections with both inhabitants and visitors of this city. Our monuments are being repurposed as living and evolving spaces that breathe together with Istanbul,” says Mahir Polat, director of the Istanbul Heritage programme developed by IBB. With this mission in mind, during the last four years, the municipality completed a number of significant renovation and restoration projects including old fortresses, ancient land walls and cisterns, Byzantine palaces, shipyards, factories, Ottoman-era gasworks and historic piers. Finally, Istanbul’s design scene also deserves a spotlight as a dynamic new generation of creatives is building their contemporary work on top of the city’s rich layers of history and culture. By developing an innovative technique of embossing raised patterns, Esma Dereboy, a ceramic artist, recently introduced a modern take on the centuries-old artisanal tradition of tile-making. In 2018, she launched a contemporary tableware brand, which already has won several prominent international design awards. “For me, the energy of Istanbul is like a constantly flowing river. As it flows, it mixes different colours and patterns at each moment. The chaos of this city coupled with its PHOTO © BIZ 28 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM

overbearing past urges me to create just the opposite: designs that are calm and timeless.” Les Benjamins, the Istanbul-based luxury streetwear brand now selling in major department stores around the globe, also has a mission to highlight the dynamism of the contemporary East. “Duality is a constant theme in the DNA of our brand. It’s also a reflection of who I am. I was born in Germany with Turkish roots. Everything about me seems to be about contrasts and juxtapositions. Istanbul is an endless source of inspiration for this,” remarks Bünyamin Aydın, the brand’s founder and creative director. Other designer brands making significant contributions to the global fashion scene include Begum Khan, Misela, Manu Atelier, Lug von Siga, Anim Living and Siedrés – to name just a few. Once the “queen of cities”, Istanbul is now a dazzling megalopolis. As one of the only cities in the world to span two continents, it sits comfortably neither in the East nor in the West. Instead, it intriguingly combines seemingly incompatible binaries: harmonious and incongruous, elegant and kitsch, crowded and peaceful, entertaining and spiritual, beautiful and yes, sometimes ugly. But who doesn’t want to have it all? Istanbul, Curated Bedding Down Istanbul has celebrated some major hotel openings in the past few years. Recently named Best New Hotel of 2023 by Virtuoso, The Peninsula Hotel Istanbul ( peninsula.com) has an excellent central location, boasting stunning views of the Bosphorus and the old city. Further up north on the shores of Kuruçeşme, the Mandarin Oriental Istanbul ( mandarinoriental.com) stands out with its sleek architecture and minimalist interiors. The Four Seasons ( fourseasons.com) has two alternative locations, one in the historic Sultanahmet area, the other by the Bosphorus Strait. A more urban option is the new Vakko Hotel & Residence (vakkohotel. com), situated in the shopping district of Nişantaşı. Sister hotels The Stay Nişantaşı and Bebek Hotel (thestay.com.tr) are also good choices, offering great dining options and contemporary rooms. Eating Out When it comes to dining, Istanbul has an endless array of options. The most talked-about recent openings are Gallada (peninsula.com), Okra İstanbul (okraistanbul.com) and Biz İstanbul (bizistanbul.com. tr). Another new hot spot for locals, Arkestra (arkestra.com.tr), is situated in a 1960s-style Etiler building with a lovely courtyard and a top-notch contemporary menu. Located inside Galataport, an ambitious port project with a diverse collection of shops, restaurants and world-class museums along the Bosphorus promenade, Frankie (frankieistanbul.com) is a buzzy restaurant with an excellent “Mediterasian” menu and impressive interiors. For more chef-driven local restaurants, Alaf (alafkurucesme.com), Neolokal (neolokal.com) and Araka (@araka.istanbul) are all great options. And for all-time local favourites, try Karaköy Lokantası ( karakoylokantasi.com) or Asmalı Cavit (+90 212 292 49 50) and taste your way through delicious mezes (Turkish tapas); hit Zübeyir Ocakbaşı (zubeyirocakbasi.com.tr) for juicy kebabs. PHOTO AYHAN ALTUN / ALAMY Inside the art and cultural space Artİstanbul Feshane Nosing Around Istanbul Modern (istanbulmodern.org), the city’s leading contemporary art museum, opened its doors this May in its new home designed by Renzo Piano. Just opposite is the Istanbul Museum of Painting and Sculpture (bienal.iksv.org), showcasing major works of modern art. There’s something mystical about entering the underground world of the historic Byzantine cisterns that hide underneath the city. Three have been recently renovated: Basilica Cistern, Theodosius Cistern and Gulhane Cistern. The new art and design centre situated in the historic building of Casa Botter is also a must-stop when strolling around the famous Istiklal Street. While there, art lovers should add Salt (saltonline.org) and Meşher (mesher. org) to their itineraries. To appreciate the amazing world of the Ottoman Empire’s leading architect Mimar Sinan, visit the Süleymaniye and Rüstem Pasha mosques. CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM 29