|Objects| “Being a collector is different from being a champagne lover, as you are rarely just buying a bottle to drink; instead, you are buying a case to enjoy its evolution over time” just buying a bottle to drink; instead, you are buying a case to enjoy its evolution over time.” Crawford agrees that a great prestige cuvée [he references Laurent Perrier Grand Siècle] “can be enjoyed in its youth – as a beautiful expression of purity and freshness, but develops over a decade or more, becoming buttery and rich”. He goes on to commend a particular favourite, Charles Heidsieck Blanc de Millenaire 1995, as another wine for the ages. Wong, also a fan of Grand Siècle – “definitely one to watch, a unique project, best vineyards, best vintages”– recommends a practical policy of buying two cases of champagne when offered, enjoying some bottles early but laying down the rest in the cellar because “like Sleeping Beauty, they wake up more mature, enhanced, with greater depth and character”. This evolution is not limited to the most soughtafter cuvées, as even non-vintage champagnes benefit from extra ageing in the bottle, becoming noticeably more complex and interesting after just three years. “NV Pol Roger, Veuve Clicquot and Moët & Chandon are great after ten years,” says Crawford, “and, of course, [multi-vintage] Krug Grand Cuvée”. Avellan adds a note of caution to would-be collectors, saying, “Not all champagne ages well. Many grower champagnes [wines from smaller, more boutique houses] that are bone dry with no or low added sulphites are rather fragile and may not improve over a lengthy time in the cellar.” However, she highlights growers Ulysse Collin and Vilmart & Cie as small producers of notably cellarworthy cuvées. Gibb notes increased market activity around other growers including Agrapart, Jérôme Prévost and Larmandier-Bernier, while Crawford adds Frédéric Savart, Emmanuel Brochet and Pierre Péters to the list of notables. He points to the profound influence of Jacques Selosse, who he credits as a pioneer of the grower movement and as someone “who set himself apart and was able to communicate something different”. Today, Selosse’s wines are among the region’s most indemand and expensive. Meanwhile, Crawford points to grower Dhondt-Grellet as one to watch. Returning to exciting advances among the Grandes Marques, Avellan says, “Louis Roederer has been on the top of its game for a long time, with further evolution in the pipeline”. She continues: “Rare champagne is quickly entering the top collector’s league now, and Bollinger is showing a great dynamism with new, exciting blanc de noirs [100% pinot noir] cuvées.” These three maisons, along with Dom Pérignon and Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, comprise the top five current performers for Liv-ex. There is plenty more useful and varied advice – and a few warnings for those looking to begin a collection or take theirs to the next level. Crawford advises against obsessing over heralded years like 1988, 1996, 2002 and 2008, and instead recommends discovering lesser-known vintages, From left: Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle N°26, laurent-perrier.com Salon Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs, 2013, champagne-salon.fr Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Extra-Brut, 2001, philipponnat.com Dom Pérignon Plénitude 2, 2004, domperignon.com Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, 2013, taittinger.com PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE CHAMPAGNE HOUSES 54 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM
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