TERROIR ON A PLATE STELLAR FOOD AND WINE COMBINATIONS THAT PROVE WHAT GROWS TOGETHER GOES TOGETHER 1 1 CTC URBAN GASTRONOMY, ATHENS CTC may be in Kerameikos, just north of Athens city centre, but there are few better places in which to stroll – metaphorically speaking – through Greek vineyards, and nowhere puts more thought into combining food with wine. And CTC’s spacious, verdant terrace is a splendid setting for a feast. Despite an ancient history of winemaking – and a plethora of new winemaking talent – Greece’s terrific wines have yet to attract significant international attention, which makes dinner at the Michelin-starred CTC all the more fascinating. Chef and co-owner Alex Tsiotinis works closely with head sommelier Kanelos Triantafyllopoulos on his wine-pairing menu, and it demonstrates both the chef’s grasp of modern Greek cuisine and the sommelier’s skill in matching its flavours with some fascinating wines. Sweetcorn velouté with lobster, truffle and bergamot is paired with a natural savatiano from Papagiannakos – “the lees-ageing of the wine adds to the creaminess of the soup; the truffle and bergamot add a fruitiness to the wine; the green apple on the finish refreshes the palate” - while Triantafyllopoulos matches pesto calamari, simmered in tomato water, with beurre blanc, pine nuts, parmesan and basil, with a Xinomavro rosé, “which has strong flavours of tomato, harmonising with the basil oil on the plate”. A meal at CTC is both a delight and a revelation. 58
