DEPARTURES TRAVEL URBAN
DEPARTURES TRAVEL URBAN PRIMER 38 In the same neighbourhood, Santo Mauro – A Luxury Collection Hotel ( marriott.com) is the city’s one-of-a-kind 19th-century palacio owned by the Duke of Santo Mauro, and frequented by generations of ministers, ambassadors, film and sports stars. The recently revisited interiors by designer Lorenzo Castillo may have toned down the ornate period-piece decor, but thankfully, the rooms’ timeless charm (think elaborately patterned wallpaper) prevails. The showstopper: the wood-panelled library lined with antique books and beautifully set round tables draped with white tablecloths and polished silver. The restaurant, Gresca, features a menu of flavourful Mediterranean fare. Guests also dine in the bar or in the landscaped garden, awash with palms and century-old chestnut trees. Best bet at cocktail hour: the duchess’s favourite, a mix of vodka, lemon, Campari and chestnut syrup. No need to be nostalgic for days gone by to appreciate the city’s overwhelmingly rich heritage. With over 40 museums, including some of Europe’s finest art collections at the Prado, Reina Sofia and the Thyssen-Bornemisza, the latest cultural gem, the Royal Collections Gallery (patrimonionacional.es), boasts 170,000 state-owned works spanning five centuries, including masterpiece paintings by Caravaggio and Goya and a spectacular display of opulent Clockwise from left: a peaceful courtyard at Marriott’s Santo Mauro hotel; the elegant fittings of a one-bedroom suite at the Rosewood Villa Magna; soldaditos de Pavía (fried cod wrapped in roasted pepper) at Sala de Despiece furnishings, tapestries and precious luxury objects, from clocks to gilded dishware. But it’s not all about glitz and glamour. The city’s influx of affordable, arty tapas bars in up-and-coming neighbourhoods like Chamberí and Malasaña – try Sala de Despiece (saladedespiece.com) or Playing Solo ( playingsolorestaurant.com) – run by wildly creative chefs, is indeed a step in a new direction. “Madrid is a city that now wants to keep up with modern global trends, but we also know when to stop and return to our traditions,” says local food writer Paula Móvil. “Meanwhile, we’re having a blast.” Scan this QR code to discover our curated collection of global cities guides on departures-international.com CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: © MARRIOTT SANTO MAURO, © ROSEWOOD, © SALA DE DESPIECE
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