Explore More - 2019

MAGIC on the RHINE A

MAGIC on the RHINE A river cruise is the ideal way to discover local culture, cuisine and some unexpected sights, says travel writer John Wilmott Pfalzgrafenstein Castle and the Rhine River

TRAVEL Clockwise, from facing page: Cologne Cathedral lit up at night; a decorative window in the Black Forest, Baden- Württemberg; glorious views of the Rhine Look, there is an ancient castle, high up on the riverbank. Did you see that huge flock of swans? That cathedral looks magnificent from here on the water. I wonder what those windmills were used for? Those must be Riesling grapes in that vineyard. Wow, what an impressive bridge we are sailing under. There is an interesting medieval village ahead; I hope we are stopping there. Yes, we are!” This, perhaps, is what you imagine a river cruise to be like—a gentle journey along a beautiful waterway with enchanting, ever-changing views. And indeed it is. Above are just a few examples of what we heard on our meander on the Rhine with Viking. But I am going to give you another list, one I did not expect to encounter. In the comfortable Lounge of my Viking Longship, there was a music quiz. Up on the Sun Deck, it was 10:30 PM and two couples were still playing shuffleboard in the midsummer twilight. One evening, a guest joined the ship’s resident pianistsinger for a duet, then both were persuaded to move aside by another guest so he could knock out a few of his own favorites. A river cruise with Viking does not just present a variety of scenic and cultural encounters, it is also enormous fun. If you will permit, here is a third list, which again may be unexpected. A shore excursion in every port. Wine, beer and soft drinks with onboard lunch and dinner every day. Flights. Transfers. Wi-Fi. Tea and coffee 24 hours a day. The significance? They are all included in your cruise fare. This really was a comprehensive, cohesive cruise. Just as the design of the ship brought the outside in, the onboard experience did too. When traveling through The Netherlands, we were treated to Dutch coffee with whipped cream and a splash of eggnog. That evening, I chose a Dutch cheese soufflé. After a day in Strasbourg, local musicians joined us on board our Longship to play French tunes; earlier, I had accepted a glass of Gallic wine at dinner. Over the course of a week and hundreds of miles of river, I came to deeply appreciate the design and style of my Viking Longship, but it was the ambience that left the greatest impression. The Lounge, Restaurant and Aquavit Terrace were a hubbub of chatter, laughter and chinking glasses. Yet there were always quiet corners to be found—the alcoves of the Library; the huge, peaceful Sun Deck; and the sanctuary of my delightful stateroom with a private veranda. Viking is the leader in European river cruising. It provides a small ship experience and takes you into the heart of great cities and quaint villages. The itinerary excelled in its diversity of longer and shorter stops. The local guides were full of all sorts of stories and nuggets of quirky information. We learned how thrifty Dutch millers reused the same wooden component four times when building their windmills so it only needed replacing every 28 years. In Cologne, we heard how a public outcry stopped the authorities from removing thousands of padlocks—symbols of love—from Hohenzollern Bridge. We found out how the expression “going to the dogs” came about at the fairytale Marksburg Castle above the river. At the huge Heidelberg Castle, my fellow guests and I chuckled at the tale of the court jester who guarded what is still the world’s largest wine barrel, so massive it has a dance floor on top. We also discovered why the pretty medieval village of Colmar has New York’s Statue of Liberty in the middle of a traffic circle. Viking Longships have excellent Guest Services staff who can not only arrange a special meal or a private visit, for example, but also provide a mine of very useful firsthand information. With free time in Speyer, we visited the Technik Museum which houses Europe’s greatest transport collection—everything from airplanes to space shuttles. Viking also offers a selection of optional immersive excursions alongside the wonderful range of complimentary tours, from tastings of local cuisine and wines to a visit to the Mercedes-Benz car factory. One night, our Program Director suggested we catch the finale of a performance by the city’s Academy of Music and Dance, then we were to set sail at midnight past the mighty Dom, Cologne’s cathedral. Cameras in hand, on the Sun Deck, we admired the Gothic masterpiece, eerily floodlit like something out of Harry Potter. “It is magical,” said a few wide-eyed guests. Rather like the cruise itself, I thought. Go online: Watch a video of the Rhine Getaway cruise at vrc.com/videos EXPLORE MORE 2019 VIKING.COM 51