A Foggy Day at Lake Willastein
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January/February 2017<br />
12<br />
One of the things th<strong>at</strong> has<br />
puzzled me about wine<br />
writing is th<strong>at</strong> wine writers<br />
seldom discuss their personal<br />
wine background or their<br />
writing credentials, apparently assuming<br />
their readers will simply conclude th<strong>at</strong><br />
the writer is an expert. I recall one wine<br />
writer in the remote past who never mentioned<br />
th<strong>at</strong> he was completely blind and<br />
th<strong>at</strong> all of his wine writing about vari<strong>at</strong>ions<br />
and complexities in color, appearance and<br />
similar m<strong>at</strong>ters were written by an unidentified<br />
person.<br />
I cheerfully admit th<strong>at</strong> while my wine<br />
knowledge probably exceeds th<strong>at</strong> of someone<br />
who started enjoying wine last year,<br />
th<strong>at</strong> knowledge often needs supplement<strong>at</strong>ion.<br />
Invariably, the needed supplement<strong>at</strong>ion<br />
starts with Frank Schoonmaker’s “Encyclopedia<br />
of Wine.”<br />
Th<strong>at</strong> st<strong>at</strong>ement may be a bit puzzling<br />
when it is considered th<strong>at</strong> my copy of the<br />
Encyclopedia was published more than 50<br />
years ago and Frank died in 1976. Certainly<br />
the Encyclopedia is out of d<strong>at</strong>e in many respects<br />
but it often remains the best place to<br />
start when I research an aspect of wine with<br />
which I am not familiar.<br />
As to Frank, most people consider him<br />
to be the gre<strong>at</strong>est wine authority of his time.<br />
His wine book is impeccably detailed and<br />
presents wine inform<strong>at</strong>ion in authorit<strong>at</strong>ive<br />
but still understandable language. While the<br />
gre<strong>at</strong>est emphasis in the book’s more than<br />
400 pages is on California and France, it covers<br />
most of the other regions and aspects of<br />
wine enjoyment, including wine and food<br />
affinities. It even dares to recommend “no<br />
Wine Inform<strong>at</strong>ion<br />
By Ken Forrester<br />
wine <strong>at</strong> all” in <strong>at</strong> least one instance. It contains<br />
dozens of maps of wine regions and is<br />
still widely available. If your personal wine<br />
journey is just starting do find a copy and<br />
buy it.<br />
I haven’t bought a lot of wine books<br />
<strong>at</strong> new retail prices in recent years since<br />
friends give me many of them and publishers<br />
sometimes send complimentary copies<br />
of upcoming books although some of the<br />
complimentary copies have obvious defects<br />
e.g., the cover is installed upside down.<br />
One recent purchase was titled simply,<br />
“Wines of the World,” a 688 page “Visual<br />
Reference Guide” th<strong>at</strong> bills itself as “Your Essential<br />
Handbook.” It is published by Metro<br />
Books of New York; Susan Keevil is listed as<br />
a consultant and there are several contributors.<br />
The back page gives essential inform<strong>at</strong>ion:<br />
comprehensive facts on each wine<br />
region, its grape varieties, vineyards producers<br />
and wines with detailed reports on<br />
styles, flavors of hundreds of wines, best vintages,<br />
who makes them. Also covered are<br />
hundreds of photographs, maps and special<br />
illustr<strong>at</strong>ed fe<strong>at</strong>ures. There is a comprehensive<br />
wine glossary and a section on wine<br />
and food m<strong>at</strong>ching.<br />
My only criticism of the book is th<strong>at</strong><br />
it crams so much inform<strong>at</strong>ion into its reduced<br />
size (about 5 inches by 8 ½ inches,<br />
688 pages). If th<strong>at</strong> is a problem for you, do<br />
buy a magnifying glass or see if you can run<br />
a copy through your computer to enlarge<br />
it. If your seeking of wine knowledge is just<br />
starting, or isn’t yet very comprehensive,<br />
I suggest th<strong>at</strong> you buy a copy of the book<br />
and shelve it next to your copy of the Frank<br />
Schoonmaker book.<br />
A ploy th<strong>at</strong> has worked well for me and<br />
which you may find useful in acquiring wine<br />
books is going to library book sales. Libraries<br />
frequently discard books in their collection.<br />
This likely is fine for ordinary books but<br />
not for wine books, since older wine books<br />
often contain inform<strong>at</strong>ion not available<br />
elsewhere. (A friend once found an old set<br />
of encyclopedias giving then-current inform<strong>at</strong>ion<br />
on Benjamin Franklin’s experiments<br />
with electricity.) When my local library has a<br />
sale I go and take a number of sacks which<br />
I fill with any books rel<strong>at</strong>ed to any aspect<br />
of wine. The price is usually a dollar or under<br />
per book and I can fill a sack with wh<strong>at</strong><br />
would otherwise be the cost of one new<br />
book. I take the books home and examine<br />
them carefully. The ones I wish to add to<br />
my wine library I keep; the others I return to<br />
the library to sell <strong>at</strong> future sales. Books by<br />
favored wine writers (Alexis Lichine, Hugh<br />
Johnson, Philip M. Wagner, Alexis Bespaloff,<br />
many others) I keep and add to my personal<br />
wine library.<br />
This system has an added advantage: it<br />
“sort-of” separ<strong>at</strong>es the wine books into c<strong>at</strong>egories:<br />
winemaking, cooking with wine,<br />
wine producers, wine regions and others.<br />
The Wine Spect<strong>at</strong>or is an excellent, authorit<strong>at</strong>ive,<br />
upscale magazine and source of<br />
wine inform<strong>at</strong>ion. I recommend it with only<br />
one rel<strong>at</strong>ively small reserv<strong>at</strong>ion: wine reviewers<br />
have excellent credentials but tend<br />
to use cutsey-poo language in their reviews.<br />
Ignore this other-world (in my opinion) language<br />
and the rest of the reports are very<br />
worthwhile.<br />
Now for a bit of personal aggrandizement:<br />
I have been selling my writing about<br />
wine for more than 50 years and during<br />
th<strong>at</strong> time I have acquired a gre<strong>at</strong> deal of<br />
practical inform<strong>at</strong>ion not usually available<br />
elsewhere. A minor illustr<strong>at</strong>ion: the most<br />
important sentence in any manuscript you<br />
hope to get published (whether th<strong>at</strong> manuscript<br />
is about wine or any other subject) is<br />
the first sentence. If th<strong>at</strong> sentence doesn’t<br />
Ken Forrester, a retired administr<strong>at</strong>ive<br />
law judge, is the published author of<br />
numerous articles and columns on wine.<br />
Ken is a member of the Authors League, the American<br />
Wine Society and the Society of Wine Educ<strong>at</strong>ors.<br />
figur<strong>at</strong>ively reach out and grab the reader<br />
by the lapels and say, “Listen up, dammit, I’m<br />
talking to you,” your chance of a sale often<br />
decreases to the vanishing point.<br />
I have included most of this practical<br />
knowledge In a multi-page monograph<br />
titled, “About Wine, To Get You Started.” As<br />
one reviewer st<strong>at</strong>ed, “It starts just forward<br />
of which end of the bottle you open and<br />
goes on from there.” It also mentions, describes<br />
and discusses most aspects of wine<br />
in a practical way, lists a dozen or so specific<br />
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wines to taste as well as the pages of additional<br />
wine inform<strong>at</strong>ion.<br />
It sells for $4.95 and is not available from<br />
me but from barnesandnoble.com or amazon.com.<br />
In the search window type “Ken<br />
Forrester” and a list of this and my other<br />
“About” monographs will appear.<br />
My admittedly biased opinion is th<strong>at</strong><br />
the monograph gives you more practical<br />
wine inform<strong>at</strong>ion for less money than you<br />
are likely to get from any other source. MM<br />
501.851.3641<br />
www.quyspa.com<br />
www.MauMag.com<br />
13