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knut hoemEn veiviserFoto: Adrià Ariste Santacreu


Berlin© Spartacus Forlag 2010omslag og sats: Øystein Vidnesforsidefoto: Till Krechtypesnitt: FF Meta & FF Meta Seriftrykk: Valdres trykkeri, FagernesPrinted in Norwayisbn: 978-82-430-0537-2spartacus forlag asPb. 2587 Solli, 0203 Oslowww.spartacus.no<strong>forord</strong>inn i berlinmittepr<strong>en</strong>zlauer bergfriedrichshainmur<strong>en</strong>kreuzbergneuköllncharlott<strong>en</strong>burgschönebergtiergart<strong>en</strong>16203054688094116128138150bøkerbobarngalleriermat & drikkefilmklubb & barmuse<strong>en</strong>eteatershopping162168176184190202208218228232utflukter100 forslagtil ting å gjøre i berlinregister242252262Foto: Secret Pilgrim


<strong>forord</strong>fem stikkord?Olympiastadion. Foto: Andreas LeversFoto: Adrià Ariste SantacreuKjære <strong>lese</strong>r! D<strong>en</strong>ne bok<strong>en</strong> er <strong>en</strong> veiviser til <strong>en</strong> vi<strong>du</strong>nderlig by somdet <strong>kan</strong> være litt kronglete å finne frem i. Det skyldes at Berlinbestår <strong>av</strong> <strong>en</strong> rekke landsbyer som opp gj<strong>en</strong>nom histori<strong>en</strong> har lattseg innlemme mer <strong>eller</strong> mindre frivillig i det som var og atter skullebli hovedstad<strong>en</strong> i Tyskland. Berlin er rett og slett by<strong>en</strong> ut<strong>en</strong> s<strong>en</strong>trum,og folk lever fortsatt sine liv i landsby<strong>en</strong>e som nå er blitt tilbydeler. I hver <strong>en</strong>kelt bydel <strong>kan</strong> man fort bli vippet litt <strong>av</strong> pinn<strong>en</strong> <strong>av</strong>at no<strong>en</strong> gater <strong>kan</strong> være så til de grader syd<strong>en</strong>de <strong>av</strong> liv, m<strong>en</strong>s gat<strong>en</strong>eved sid<strong>en</strong> <strong>av</strong> er fullst<strong>en</strong>dig døde.D<strong>en</strong>ne bok<strong>en</strong> er laget for at <strong>du</strong> <strong>en</strong>klere skal kunne finne fremtil de gode, lev<strong>en</strong>de strøk<strong>en</strong>e i Berlin, og ikke minst forstå mer<strong>av</strong> hvorfor disse strøk<strong>en</strong>e er blitt som de er blitt. I bok<strong>en</strong> har jegkalt disse områd<strong>en</strong>e for oaser. I oas<strong>en</strong>e finnes det et utvalg kafeer,restauranter, klubber og barer, butikker og lekeplasser, museer oggallerier, som utgjør små verd<strong>en</strong>er i seg selv. En del <strong>av</strong> disse sted<strong>en</strong>efinner <strong>du</strong> <strong>av</strong>merket på et kart som ledsager histori<strong>en</strong> om hver<strong>en</strong>kelt bydel. Enda flere steder finner <strong>du</strong> i de tematiske kapitl<strong>en</strong>ebak i bok<strong>en</strong>.17


Holocaust-Mahnmal. Foto: Adrià Ariste Santacreu<strong>forord</strong>Da Berlinmur<strong>en</strong> kom ble alt <strong>en</strong>da mer komplisert. Folk somtrodde de bodde s<strong>en</strong>tralt, h<strong>av</strong>net i periferi<strong>en</strong>. T-banestasjon<strong>en</strong>Stadtmitte (bykjerne) ble delvis murt igj<strong>en</strong>. Etter at mur<strong>en</strong> ble reveti rekordfart i må<strong>ned</strong><strong>en</strong>e etter november ’89, h<strong>av</strong>net <strong>en</strong> hel by påtegnebrett<strong>en</strong>e til no<strong>en</strong> <strong>av</strong> verd<strong>en</strong>s fremste arkitekter. Nå er mange<strong>av</strong> disse tegning<strong>en</strong>e satt ut i livet. D<strong>en</strong>ne bok<strong>en</strong> forsøker, som d<strong>en</strong>første norskspråklige guidebok<strong>en</strong> til Berlin etter tus<strong>en</strong>årsskiftet, åfange opp disse <strong>en</strong>dring<strong>en</strong>e.«Berlin er fattig, m<strong>en</strong> sexy», sa borgermester Klaus Wowereittreff<strong>en</strong>de i 2003. D<strong>en</strong>ne fattigdomm<strong>en</strong> er også by<strong>en</strong>s store styrke.Kunstnere fra hele verd<strong>en</strong> etablerer seg her, <strong>eller</strong> bor i by<strong>en</strong> <strong>en</strong><strong>av</strong>gr<strong>en</strong>set periode. Berlin er Europas teater-, klubb- og gallerihovedstad.Etter at filmpark<strong>en</strong> Babelsberg igj<strong>en</strong> begynte å trekketil seg internasjonale storpro<strong>du</strong>ksjoner, aspirerer by<strong>en</strong> også til tittel<strong>en</strong>Europas filmhovedstad.Berlinerne har alltid opponert mot klisjéforestilling<strong>en</strong> om tysker<strong>en</strong>som ord<strong>en</strong>sm<strong>en</strong>neske. Under d<strong>en</strong> kalde krig<strong>en</strong> kom militærnekterefra hele Vest-Tyskland til Vest-Berlin for å slippe unnamilitærtj<strong>en</strong>este. I ddr kom såkalt asosiale individer til Øst-Berlinpå jakt etter et friere liv. På 00-tallet kom unge m<strong>en</strong>nesker fra heleEuropa, og ikke minst fra Norge, for å få et pusterom fra de live<strong>ned</strong>e hadde begynt på i sine hjemland. Du treffer dem på de mangekafe<strong>en</strong>e og bar<strong>en</strong>e hvor takhøyd<strong>en</strong> er større <strong>en</strong>n hjemme og livetsmange kr<strong>av</strong> er satt på v<strong>en</strong>t.Du kommer helt sikkert, selv <strong>med</strong> d<strong>en</strong>ne bok<strong>en</strong> i hånd<strong>en</strong>, til å gådeg vill i Berlin, m<strong>en</strong> før <strong>du</strong> vet ordet <strong>av</strong> det vil <strong>du</strong> oppdage fjernsynstårnetsom <strong>en</strong> spiddet fullmåne mellom husrekk<strong>en</strong>e, og da vil<strong>du</strong> atter være på sporet <strong>av</strong> by<strong>en</strong> igj<strong>en</strong>.18


Foto: Skyinn i berlinfem stikkord?På tross <strong>av</strong> d<strong>en</strong>s <strong>en</strong>kle fremtoning er guidebok<strong>en</strong>et <strong>av</strong> mine mest utfordr<strong>en</strong>de verk.vl adimir nabokovflyfilm<strong>en</strong> «himmel<strong>en</strong> over berlin» <strong>av</strong> Wim W<strong>en</strong>ders fra 1987åpner <strong>med</strong> at skuespiller<strong>en</strong> Peter Falk, også kj<strong>en</strong>t som privatdetektiv<strong>en</strong>Colombo, flyr inn over Berlin. Han lander på flyplass<strong>en</strong> Tegel,som i løpet <strong>av</strong> 1960-år<strong>en</strong>e ble hovedflyplass for reis<strong>en</strong>de fra det frievest<strong>en</strong> <strong>eller</strong> det «kapitalistiske utlandet», som Vest-Tyskland gjerneble kalt på andre sid<strong>en</strong> <strong>av</strong> Mur<strong>en</strong>. Hadde han ankommet <strong>med</strong> et littmindre fly, kunne han like gjerne ha landet på Tempelhof, flyplass<strong>en</strong>Hitler ønsket å gjøre til hovedflyplass i det nye, stortyske riket.Tempelhof, som ligger s<strong>en</strong>tralt i by<strong>en</strong>, er nå lagt <strong>ned</strong>, og Tegel<strong>en</strong>da l<strong>en</strong>ger vest har ikke l<strong>en</strong>ge igj<strong>en</strong> d<strong>en</strong> h<strong>eller</strong>. Tegel ligger i det<strong>av</strong>sidesligg<strong>en</strong>de Reinick<strong>en</strong>dorf, og kommer til å bli s<strong>av</strong>net <strong>av</strong> demsom har et bank<strong>en</strong>de hjerte for det gamle Vest-Berlin. M<strong>en</strong> i det jegskriver disse linj<strong>en</strong>e er Tegel <strong>en</strong>nå i full drift. Hvis <strong>du</strong> vil fly inn iBerlin på Colombo-manér, velger <strong>du</strong> SAS <strong>eller</strong> Air Berlin. Da vil <strong>du</strong>allerede fra luft<strong>en</strong> kunne se <strong>ned</strong> på d<strong>en</strong> karakteristiske seks<strong>kan</strong>tete<strong>av</strong>gangs- og ankomsthall<strong>en</strong>. Tegel er noe så sjeld<strong>en</strong>t som <strong>en</strong> driveinflyplass. Uansett hvor <strong>du</strong> kommer inn i bygning<strong>en</strong>, befinner<strong>du</strong> deg like ved <strong>en</strong> innsjekkingsskranke. Tidlig på 1960-tallet, da21


Foto: Skykapittelmittefem stikkord?For Guds åsyn er eg<strong>en</strong>tlig allem<strong>en</strong>nesker berlinere.theodor fontane<strong>eller</strong> så fortsetter <strong>du</strong> videre langs rut<strong>en</strong> til Google. Pr<strong>en</strong>zlauerAllee glir over i Karl-Liebknecht-Straße, og her m<strong>en</strong>er Google at <strong>du</strong>er fremme. Hvorfor akkurat her? Se opp! Der er fjernsynstårnet.Fjernsynstårnet på Alexanderplatz er nå blitt d<strong>en</strong> kompassnål<strong>en</strong> heleby<strong>en</strong> ori<strong>en</strong>terer seg etter. Det er bare å stille seg i kø<strong>en</strong>. Telekafé<strong>en</strong>,som restaurant<strong>en</strong> i fjernsynstårnet heter, bør oppsøkes (så sant <strong>du</strong>ikke er rullestolbruker, for da kommer <strong>du</strong> ikke inn). Heis<strong>en</strong> opp tarførti sekunder, d<strong>en</strong> koster for tid<strong>en</strong> 10 euro for voksne og 5,50 forbarn. Selve kafé<strong>en</strong> snurrer rundt sin eg<strong>en</strong> akse på <strong>en</strong> halvtime.I fjernsynstårnet kunne ddr-borgere før mur<strong>en</strong>s fall få <strong>en</strong>sjeld<strong>en</strong> utsikt utover de vestlige bydel<strong>en</strong>e de ikke hadde tilgangtil. Charlott<strong>en</strong>burg <strong>med</strong> Kurfürst<strong>en</strong>damm og S<strong>av</strong>ignyplatz.Schöneberg <strong>med</strong> sine homsebarer, varehuset KaDeWe og D<strong>av</strong>idBowie (han bodde i Vest-Berlin fra 1974-77), Kreuzberg <strong>med</strong>Orani<strong>en</strong>straße, klubb<strong>en</strong> SO36, Landwehr<strong>kan</strong>al<strong>en</strong> og Neukölln<strong>med</strong> sine funkiskvarter. Øst for mur<strong>en</strong> lå Pr<strong>en</strong>zlauer Berg <strong>med</strong> sinevakre bygårder (som riktignok holdt på å falle fra hverandre) ogFriedrichshain <strong>med</strong> d<strong>en</strong> monum<strong>en</strong>tale Karl-Marx-Allee.31


mittekapittelovernatting1 Circus Hotel2 Circus Hostel3 Park InnAlexanderplatz4 Ackselhaus5 Lux 11restaurant6 Manngo7 Altes Europa8 Heinrich9 Monsieur Voung10 Bocca di Baccokaffe11 Milchhalle12 Barcomi’s13 Café Einstein U.d.Lind<strong>en</strong>kneipe14 Hackbarth’sGaststätte15 Alt-Berlinklubb16 Bar Taus<strong>en</strong>d17 Week<strong>en</strong>d18 Tape Club19 Clärch<strong>en</strong>s Ballhausmuseum20 Alte Nationalgalerie21 Altes Museum22 Bode-Museum23 Pergamonmuseum24 Neues Museum25 ddr-Museumgalleri26 SammlungHoffmann27 Kunst-Werke28 Sammlung Boros29 Neu 4830 c/oGerhards<strong>en</strong>-Gernermusikk31 B-Flat32 Konzerthaus Berlin33 Kunstfabrik Schlot34 Acudteater35 Volksbühne36 Maxim-Gorki-Theater37 Deutsches Theater38 Berliner Ensemblekino39 Hackesche HöfeKino40 C<strong>en</strong>tral Kinobok og papir41 Berlin Story42 DussmannKulturkaufhaus43 RVSPZinnowitzerStraßelekeplass44 Spielplatz MonbijouChausseestraßeInvalid<strong>en</strong>- straßeMari<strong>en</strong>str.SchiffbauerdammDorothe<strong>en</strong>str.klær45 Hookahey shop46 Delight47 APCBrand<strong>en</strong>burgerTor48 Starstyling49 Adidas originalstore50 American Apparel51 Drykorn52 Firmasko53 Tripp<strong>en</strong>Gertrud-Kolmer-Str.Wilhelmstr.1833293728ReichstaguferBehr<strong>en</strong>str.Schlegelstr.Tieckstr.Orani<strong>en</strong>burgerTor16Mauerstr.Unter d<strong>en</strong> Lind<strong>en</strong>3813NordbahnhofWeinmeisterstr.Friedrichstr.41Novalisstr.FranzösischeStraßeJägerstr.Taub<strong>en</strong>str.Borsigstr.TorstraßeLini<strong>en</strong>str.Johannisstraße10Mohr<strong>en</strong>str.Planckstr.Bergstr.Invalid<strong>en</strong>str.Ackerstr.Schröderstr.Gartnerstr.Behr<strong>en</strong>str.Charlott<strong>en</strong>str.32Bergstr.Augustr.Orani<strong>en</strong>burgerStraßeDorothe<strong>en</strong>str.Anklamer Str.27362324Französische Str.Jägerstr.Ackerstr.19Oberwallstr.Leipziger Str.Krausnickstr.2122Torstraße44Bodestr.Kron<strong>en</strong>str.Lini<strong>en</strong>str.20712Große Hamburger Str.34141126Gipsstr.Sophi<strong>en</strong>str.Am Lustgart<strong>en</strong>SchloßplatzKurstr.Zehd<strong>en</strong>icker Str.WeinbergswegRos<strong>en</strong>thalerPlatz21Ros<strong>en</strong>thaler Str.HackescherMarkt2531453940 515343Rathausstr.Breite Str.Choriner Str.Zionskirchstr.Mulackstr.Steinstr.Rochstr.Gertraud<strong>en</strong>str.SpittelmarktTempliner Str.Fehrbelliner Str.Lottumstr.Alexanderplatz4964615484752950Max-Beer-Str.Amstadtstr.Karl-Liebknecht-Str.Mühl<strong>en</strong>dammFischerinselWallstr.Münzstr.Schwedter Str.Neue Roßstr.5Christin<strong>en</strong>str.8Hin<strong>en</strong>str.JannowitzbrückeMärkischesMuseumNeue35S<strong>en</strong>efelderkapittelPlatz4TorstraßeKlosterstr.Inselstr.Straßburger Str.Lini<strong>en</strong>str.3Jakobstr.Saarbrücker Str.Wallstr.Rungestr.49Wadzeckstr.17AlexanderplatzLitt<strong>en</strong>str.Alexanderstr.Belforter StrMetzer StrPr<strong>en</strong>zlauer AlleeMohr<strong>en</strong>straßeHausvogteiplatz30


mittemitteOvernatting1. Circus Hotel. Nytt, fargesterkt,internasjonalt.Ros<strong>en</strong>thaler Str. 110119 Berlin+49 3020003939U8 Ros<strong>en</strong>thaler Platz2. Circus Hostel. Ekstremtveldrevet hostel.Weinbergsweg 1a+49 3020003939U8 Ros<strong>en</strong>thaler Platz3 Park Inn Alexanderplatz. 1012 rom.37 etasjer midt på Alexanderplatz.Alexanderplatz 7+49 3023890U2, U8 Alexanderplatz4. Ackselhaus. P<strong>en</strong>sjon. Temarom.Nydelig portrom og bakgård.Ackselhaus & Blue home GmbHBelforter Straße 21+ 49 3044337633U2 S<strong>en</strong>efelderplatz5. Lux 11. Wallpaper-kompatibel ogstylish tysk minimalisme.Chambers Berlin-Mitte ServicedApartm<strong>en</strong>ts GmbH & Co. KGRosa-Luxemburg-Straße 9–13+49 309362800U2, 5, 8 AlexanderplatzRestaurant6. Manngo. Billig og meget br<strong>av</strong>ietnameser.Mulackstr. 29+49 3028040558U2 Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz7. Altes Europa. Sjarmer<strong>en</strong>de tysk/itali<strong>en</strong>sk kjøkk<strong>en</strong>. Livlig.Gipsstraße 11+49 3028093840U8 Weinmeisterstraße8 Heinrich. Oppdatert tysk kjøkk<strong>en</strong>.Art deco fra tjuetallet.Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße 39–41+49 3013899906U2 Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz8 Monsieur Voung. Morsom ogekstremt pop vietnameser.Alte Schönhauser Str. 46+49 3099296924U2 Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz10 Bocca di Bacco. Itali<strong>en</strong>sk gourmet.Friedrichstraße 167+49 3020672828U6 Französische StraßeKaffe11 Milchhalle. Lyst og shabby chic.Langbord og americano.Auguststraße 50U8 Ros<strong>en</strong>thaler Platz12 Barcomi’s. Kjedekafé full <strong>av</strong>kunstnere i Sophie-Gips-Höfe.Sophi<strong>en</strong>straße 21+49 30 28598363U8 Weinmeisterstraße13 Café Einstein Unter d<strong>en</strong> Lind<strong>en</strong>.Kaffe <strong>med</strong> stil. All verd<strong>en</strong>s <strong>av</strong>iser.Tyske kj<strong>en</strong>diser.Unter d<strong>en</strong> Lind<strong>en</strong> 42+49 302043632U55 Brand<strong>en</strong>burger TorKneipe14 Hackbarth’s Gaststätte. Har holdtstil<strong>en</strong> sid<strong>en</strong> tidlig 90-tall. Også frokost!Auguststraße 49a+49 302827704U8 Ros<strong>en</strong>thaler Platz15 Alt-Berlin. Tysk øl. Kålrulade. Altgodt gjort. Münzstr. 23+49 302819687.U8 WeinmeisterstraßeKlubb16 Bar Taus<strong>en</strong>d. Hedonistisk luksus.Ut<strong>en</strong> skilt. Dørvakt. Som i <strong>en</strong> film <strong>av</strong>Wong-Kar-Wai. Ofte jazz.Schiffbauerdamm 11. +49 3027582070U6 Friedrichstr.17 Week<strong>en</strong>d. Øverst i <strong>en</strong> gammelddr-høyblokk i helg<strong>en</strong>e.Alexanderstr. 7. +49 3024631676U2, U5, (8 Alexanderplatz18 Tape Club. Like ved HamburgerBahnhof. Heidestraße 14U55 Hauptbahnhof19 Clärch<strong>en</strong>s Ballhaus. Selskapsdanstil storband. Auguststr. 24+49 302829295U8 Ros<strong>en</strong>thaler PlatzMuseum20 Alte Nationalgalerie. Caspar D<strong>av</strong>idFriedrich er her. Bodestraße 1–3+49 3020905801U6 Friedrichstraße / S5, 7, 9, 75Hackescher Markt21 Altes Museum. Egyptisk samling<strong>med</strong> Nefertiti. Bodestraße 1–3+49 30266424242U6 Friedrichstraße / S5, 7, 9, 75Hackescher Markt22 Bode-Museum. Skulptur<strong>en</strong>eshistorie. Bodestraße 1–3+49 30266424242U6 Friedrichstraße / S5, 7, 9, 75Hackescher Markt23 Pergamonmuseum. På sporet <strong>av</strong> <strong>en</strong>tapt sivilisasjon. Bodestraße 3+49 20905566U6 Friedrichstraße / S5, 7, 9, 75Hackescher Markt24 Neues Museum. Fasciner<strong>en</strong>degreske vaser og urner.Bodestraße 1–3. +49 30266424242U1 Kurfürst<strong>en</strong>straße25 ddr-Museum. Sværtunderhold<strong>en</strong>de.Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1+49 30847123731U2, 5, 8 AlexanderplatzGalleri26 Sammlung Hoffmann.Privatsamling på loftet.Sophie-Gips-Höfe, Aufgang CSophi<strong>en</strong>straße 21+49 3028499120U8 Weinmeisterstraße27 Kunst-Werke. Med arty kafé.Auguststraße 69+49 302434590U8 Ros<strong>en</strong>thaler Platz50 51


mittemitte28 Sammlung Boros. Privatsamling igammel teknobunker.Reinhardtstraße 20+49 3027594065U6 Orani<strong>en</strong>burger Tor29 Neu. Konseptkunst nær HamburgerBahnhof. Philippstr. 13+49 302857550U6 Orani<strong>en</strong>burger Tor30 c/o Gerhards<strong>en</strong>-Gerner. Norskgallerist <strong>med</strong> gode n<strong>av</strong>n.Holzmarktstr. 15–18+49 3069518341U8 JannowitzbrückeMusikk31 B-Flat. Streit jazz.Ros<strong>en</strong>thaler Straße 13+49 302833123U8 Ros<strong>en</strong>thaler Platz32 Konzerthaus Berlin. Fire saler frasamtidsmusikk til tidligmusikk.G<strong>en</strong>darm<strong>en</strong>markt 2+49 30203090U6 Französische Straße33 Kunstfabrik Schlot. Jazz og Cabaret.Chausseestraße 18. +49 304482160U6 Zinnowitzer Straße34 Acud. Frikete jamsessionsog kino i ett. Veteran<strong>en</strong>straße 21+ 49 3044359498U8 Ros<strong>en</strong>thaler PlatzTeater35 Volksbühne. Vilt og uhemmet.Lini<strong>en</strong>straße 227+49 30240655U2 Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz36 Maxim-Gorki-Theater. Ny giv underArmin Petras. Am Festungsgrab<strong>en</strong> 2+49 3020221115U6 Friedrichstraße37 Deutsches Theater. Prisvinn<strong>en</strong>depå 3 sc<strong>en</strong>er. Schumannstraße 13a+49 3028441221U6 Orani<strong>en</strong>burger Tor38 Berliner Ensemble.Publikumssuksess under ClausPeymann.Bertolt-Brecht-Platz 1+49 30284080U6 FriedrichstraßeKino39 Hackesche Höfe Kino. Oftestoriginalversjoner <strong>med</strong> tekst.Ros<strong>en</strong>thaler Straße 40/41+49 302834603U8 Weinmeisterstraße40 C<strong>en</strong>tral Kino. Høy kvalitet i d<strong>en</strong>alternative nabogård<strong>en</strong> til HackescheHöfe. Ros<strong>en</strong>thaler Str. 39+49 3028599973U8 WeinmeisterstraßeBok og papir41 Berlin Story. Absolutt alt om Berlin.Geschäftsführer Wieland GiebelUnter d<strong>en</strong> Lind<strong>en</strong> 26+49 3020453842U6 Friedrichstraße42 Dussmann Kulturkaufhaus.Et eget varehus for bøker og CD-er.Friedrichstraße 90+49 3020251111U6 Friedrichstraße43 rvsp. Sjeldne papirvarer.Skrivebøker. Blyanter og p<strong>en</strong>ner.Mulackstr. 14U8 WeinmeisterstraßeLekeplass44 Spielplatz Monbijou.Vannlekeplass om sommer<strong>en</strong> me<strong>du</strong>tsikt til Museumsinsel.Orani<strong>en</strong>burger Straße 78+49 302828652U8 Witt<strong>en</strong>auKlær45 Hookahey shop (dame)Kastani<strong>en</strong>allee 89+49 3044037640U2 Eberswalder Straße46 Delight (dame)Alte Schönhauser Straße 33+49 3097894705U2 Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz47 apc. Fransk mote. (dame/herre)Mulackstraße 35+49 3028449192U2 Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz48 Starstyling. Ikke minst t-skjorter.(dame/herre)Mulackstraße 4+49 3097005182U2 Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz49 Adidas original store. Sporty.(dame/herre)Münzstraße 13+49 3027594381U8 Weinmeisterstraße50 American Apparel.Sporty. (dame/herre/barn)Münzstraße 19+49 3028096318U8 Weinmeisterstraße51 Drykorn. Prestisjefylt tysk merke.(dame/herre)Neue Schönhauser Straße 14 (dame)/ 6 (herre)+49 3028045666U8 Weinmeisterstraße52 Firma. Berlin-mote. (herre)Mulackstraße 1+49 3040054047U2 Rosa-Luxemburg-PlatzSko53 Tripp<strong>en</strong>. Design og bekvemt.Ros<strong>en</strong>thaler Straße 40–41Hackesche Höfe, Hof 4, 6,+49 3028391337U8 Weinmeisterstraße / S5, 7, 9, 75Hackescher Markt52 53


egisterfem stikkord?Kun treff for gat<strong>en</strong><strong>av</strong>n i tekst<strong>en</strong>,og ikke på kartsid<strong>en</strong>e, er oppførti registeret.aAb<strong>en</strong>teuerlicher BauspielplatzKolle 37 178, 1838mm Bar 65, 67, 210, 215Adalbertstraße 97Adam, Hans Christian 166Adlon Kempinski 170Alexanderplatz 23, 27, 31f, 36, 41,46, 48, 50, 69, 171–173, 176,182, 205, 213, 224Aloha Berlin 83Alte Nationalgalerie 48, 51, 222,224Alte Schönhauser Straße 23, 43,53, 238Alt<strong>en</strong>bourg, Gerhard 187Ambjørns<strong>en</strong>, Ingvar 25, 133, 164Ampelmännch<strong>en</strong> 43Ankerklause 108, 110, 122, 198Anne Schmuhl 43Anonyma. En kvinne i Berlin 165Aqua Dom und Sea Life 181fAr<strong>en</strong>a 249Arkonaplatz 194Augestad, Tora 229bBabelsberg 181f, 205fBabylon Kino 41, 111, 207Bachmann, Joseph 131Badeschiff 206, 249, 253Bahnhof Zoo 22f, 25f, 118f, 132,165, 180Ballhaus Ost 58, 64, 66, 229, 231Bar Americain 133, 135f, 216Barcomis 106, 185Foto: Marie Sjøvold262 263


egisterregisterFriedrich Wilhelm, «soldatkong<strong>en</strong>»(1688–1740) 245Friedrich, Caspar D<strong>av</strong>id 51, 222,224Friedrichshain 27, 31f, 35, 69–79,88, 91, 172f, 183, 187, 196f,204f, 207, 211–214, 238, 253f,256–258Friedrichstraße 37, 47, 50–53,85–89, 167, 173, 180, 186, 194,196, 224, 231, 238, 250, 258fgGainsbourg, Serge 133Galao 55, 57, 59, 64, 66, 200Galerie Brusberg 135, 137, 187,188Galerie Opdahl 187Galeriehaus Lind<strong>en</strong>straße 34–35187Ged<strong>en</strong>kstätte Berlin-Hoh<strong>en</strong>schönhaus<strong>en</strong> 220,225, 256Ged<strong>en</strong>kstätte Bernauer Straße220, 225Ged<strong>en</strong>kstätte Sachs<strong>en</strong>haus<strong>en</strong>220, 225Gemäldegalerie 149, 159, 161,222, 225Getsemanekirche 58Goebbels, Joseph 244Goodbye to Berlin 140, 165Gorbatsjov, Mikhail 35f, 70,Gotische Bibliothek 246Gotscheff, Dimiter 227Grand Hyatt 159f, 170, 174, 201Grass, Günter 56, 71, 85–87, 144,155–157, 166Gr<strong>en</strong>se Jacobselv 165, 170Grimmelshaus<strong>en</strong> 71Gropiusstadt 118f, 155Grosch, Christian H<strong>en</strong>rik 222Großer Bunkerberg 74Gräfestraße 107Gröb<strong>en</strong>ufer 93Grønnsakskrig<strong>en</strong>,Gemüseschlacht 73hHa<strong>av</strong>ardsholm, Esp<strong>en</strong> 164Habermeyer 211Hackescher Markt 23, 41f, 51,53, 55, 58, 186, 207, 224, 233,236, 238Hamburger Bahnhof 26f, 51f,186, 188, 213, 223Hans-Otto-Theater 246Hartmann, Jörg 92fHartmann, Sebastian 227Hauptbahnhof 22f, 25–27, 51,151, 209, 213, 244Hauptmann, Gerhard 56Haus am Checkpoint Charlie 40,89, 220fHebbel am Ufer 106, 115, 195,229, 231Christoph, Hein 165Heinrich 48, 50, 193, 196Heinrich-Heine-Straße 82, 90Hel<strong>lese</strong>n, T. 164Helmholtzplatz 63, 67, 178, 182,195, 210H<strong>en</strong>selmann, Hans 32<strong>Her</strong>mann, Judith 166<strong>Her</strong>mannplatz 122, 126, 207, 212,214f<strong>Her</strong>oes 118, 140<strong>Her</strong>r Lehmann 91, 166, 192<strong>Her</strong>rlich – Männergesch<strong>en</strong>ke 106,113, 115, 147, 236, 239Heydrich, Reinhardt 247Heym, Stefan 36, 70Hiller, Marta 166Himmel<strong>en</strong> over Berlin 21 33, 151Himmler, Heinrich 39Hind<strong>en</strong>burg, Paul von 244Hitler, Adolf 21, 38–40, 152–154,244, 248Hobrecht, James 59, 133Hoffmann, Erika 185fHoffmannswaldau 71Hoh<strong>en</strong>zollern-slekt<strong>en</strong> 32, 243,246Honecker, Erich 28, 35f, 89fHoppetosse 249Hotel Heidelberg 132Hubertuslounge 211, 214, 254,256Hufeis<strong>en</strong>siedlung 119, 155Høst, Gerd 165iI d<strong>en</strong> korte <strong>en</strong>d<strong>en</strong> <strong>av</strong> Sonn<strong>en</strong>allee92jJahn, Helmut 156James-Simon-Galerie 221Janousch 181Joachimsthaler Straße 130, 132Johans<strong>en</strong>, Jahn Otto 133Josipovici, Isolde 136, 172, 174Junge, Traudl 39Jüdisches Museum Berlin 106,113, 115, 147, 224Jäger, Harald 84kKaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis-Kirche 130Kaminer, Wladimir 166Kanzleramt 151Karl-Liebknecht-Straße 36, 103,154, 221Karl-Marx-Allee 31, 182, 207Kastani<strong>en</strong>allee 23, 46, 53, 55, 57f,66, 122, 200, 229, 238Kaufhaus des West<strong>en</strong>s (KaDeWe)132, 139, 149, 194, 235f, 240Keiser Wilhelm II (1859–1941)246Kiezkind 62f, 65, 67, 178, 180,182Kinderbad Monbijou 178Kino International 69, 205, 207Kino Moviem<strong>en</strong>to 109, 203, 207Kino Neues Off 203, 207Kleine Hamburgerstraße 45Knesebeckstraße 132, 135–137,170, 174, 183, 216, 240Koch, Hag<strong>en</strong> 89Kohl, Helmut 84, 87Kollwitz, Käthe 56Kollwitzplatz 56f, 240Komische Oper 32, 37, 194Konnopkes Imbiss 193, 258Kottbusser Brücke 122Kottbusser Tor 95f, 101, 110f, 127,198, 207, 214, 239Krapps siste spole 97Kreuzberg 27, 31, 35, 38, 40, 69,71, 73, 82, 88–91, 93–115,117f, 120, 122, 139, 141,144, 164, 172–174, 181, 183,188, 191, 195, 197, 198, 203,206–208, 211f, 214, 220,224, 229, 231, 236, 239, 248,253–259Kreuzberger Mischung 96Kreuzkölln 122Kroll-opera<strong>en</strong> 152, 244Krumme Lanke 259Kulturforum 33, 222Kunst-Werke 48, 51, 188Kurfyrste Friedrich Wilhelm I(1620–1688) 245Kurfyrste Joachim II (1505–1571)132Kurfürst<strong>en</strong>damm 22, 31, 130–134,136f, 139, 149, 187f, 216, 224,228, 231, 233, 236, 240266 267


egisterKünstlerhaus Bethani<strong>en</strong> 97, 109,111, 188, 256Königsberger Klopse 32Köp<strong>en</strong>ick 32, 88lLandwehr<strong>kan</strong>al<strong>en</strong> 31, 91, 96, 103,120f, 222, 229, 248Lausitzer Platz 96, 109, 111, 183Le Carré, John 89Leg<strong>en</strong>d<strong>en</strong> om Paul og Paula 203Lehniner Platz 132Leibing, Peter 83Leibniz, Gottfried 129Leipziger Platz 155L<strong>en</strong>né, Peter-Josef 155Libeskind, Daniel 40, 106, 115,220, 224Licht<strong>en</strong>berg 24, 88Liebermann, Max 222, 247Liebknecht, Karl 42Limpopo 178, 183Literaturhaus Berlin 133, 135f,201Love Parade 153Luise H<strong>en</strong>riette von Orani<strong>en</strong>(1627–1667) 35Luxemburg, Rosa 35, 42Luxus Bar 67, 210, 215,Lych<strong>en</strong>er Straße 59, 66, 199mMaerzmusik 229Manufactum 137, 233, 240Marga Scho<strong>eller</strong>s Bücherstube133, 137, 240Margaux 194Mariann<strong>en</strong>platz 97, 111, 120Mariann<strong>en</strong>straße 97Mari<strong>en</strong>kirche 32, 37Markthalle 192Marthaler, Christoph 227Massigli, R<strong>en</strong>é 88Matrix 212Mauerpark 85, 237Maxim-Gorki-Theater 52, 231Meinhof, Ulrike 313M<strong>en</strong>delsohn, Erich 245M<strong>en</strong>zel, Adolph 222Merkel, Angela 26Mert, Çetin 93Metropolis 206Michelberger Hotel 78, 172fMinelli, Liza 140Mitte 32, 37f, 47, 50, 82, 88, 90,141, 169–173, 185, 187, 194,212, 220, 229Modersohnbrücke 71Mohn, Albert H<strong>en</strong>rik 163fMohr<strong>en</strong>straße 38fMonbijou-park<strong>en</strong> 26, 221Munch, Edvard 38, 149, 161, 222,224Mühl<strong>en</strong>damm 37Münzstraße 41, 53 238Märch<strong>en</strong>brunn<strong>en</strong> 74Møtet i Telgte 71nNabokov, Vladimir 130Nefertiti 51, 221, 224Neu 187Neue Deutsche Welle 95Neue Nationalgalerie 149, 161,187, 222Neue Wache 36, 56Neues Kreuzberger Z<strong>en</strong>trum 95,96Neues Museum 51, 221, 224Neues Palais 246Nikolaikirche 37Noi Quattro 194oOberbaumbrücke 37, 71, 73, 78,90, 93, 103, 173, 212Oderberger Straße 66f, 83, 200,239, 258Orani<strong>en</strong>burger Straße 46, 53,183, 186Orani<strong>en</strong>straße 31, 95, 102, 110,120, 198Osloer Straße 22Osteria no. 1 116, 114Ostermeier, Thomas 137, 228, 231Ostkreuz 24, 167pPalast der Republik 32, 85Panorama Bar 212Park Inn Alexanderplatz 50, 173Paul-Löbe-Haus 27Paula Banholzer 45–46Peek & Clopp<strong>en</strong>burg 236P<strong>en</strong>sion Ackselhaus 28, 172, 210P<strong>en</strong>sion Kettler 136, 172, 174Pergamonmuseum 51, 219, 224Petras, Armin 52, 229, 231Peymann, Claus 52, 227, 228, 231Pfefferberg 186Piano, R<strong>en</strong>zo 156Pollesch, R<strong>en</strong>é 227Potipoti 43Potsdam 205, 243–246Potsdamer Platz 33, 41, 45, 132,149, 151f, 155f, 161, 170, 174,187, 201, 204–206, 222, 225,240Prater 66, 200, 229,Pr<strong>en</strong>zlauer Allee 28, 31, 55, 62Pr<strong>en</strong>zlauer Berg 22f, 27, 31, 46,54–62, 66f, 74, 83, 85, 88,102, 119, 122, 132, 141, 144,163, 169, 172, 174, 177f, 180,183, 186, 193–195, 199, 210,212, 215, 229, 231, 237, 239,254–259Prometheus 102Pub Crawl 212qQ 170rRadeberger 58Reg<strong>en</strong>er, Sv<strong>en</strong> 91, 166, 192Reingold 209Reinick<strong>en</strong>dorf 21, 88Reuter, Theresa 82RIAS 70, 92, 142, 247,Riksdag<strong>en</strong> 244, 151f, 154, 155,180, 244Rodeo Club 194, 210Roosevelt, Theodore 88, 244Rosa-Luxembourg-Platz 41fRos<strong>en</strong>thaler Platz 50–52, 55, 66,168–170, 173, 178, 188, 196,199, 200, 213,Ros<strong>en</strong>thaler Straße 41, 52f, 173,213, 238Rote Armee Fraktion (RAF) 313Røssum, Jon 84sregisterSaksin, Gregori 88Sandmann (Jon Blund) 181fSarah Wi<strong>en</strong>er 27S<strong>av</strong>ignyplatz 31, 132f, 136f, 183,188, 216,Scharoun, Hans 33, 70, 136, 216Schaubühne 132, 136f, 216, 228,231, 233Schlesisches Tor 27, 91, 93, 95,96, 101f, 110, 174, 188, 198,214, 239Schleus<strong>en</strong>er, Lothar 92fSchliemannstraße 50, 60, 67, 183Schling<strong>en</strong>sief, Christoph 227Schloss Cecili<strong>en</strong>hof 246Schmidt, Günter 96Schumann, Conrad 83, 163Schygulla, Hanna 204Schönefeld 22–24, 32268 269


egisterregisterSchönhauser Allee 55, 58, 66f,119, 199f, 210, 215Seghers, Anna 86Seitz, Gust<strong>av</strong> 5616.07.41 27, 117, 122, 164Siekmann, Ida 83Skalitzer Straße 90, 101, 110f,198, 214SO 36 (klubb<strong>en</strong>) 95, 101SO 36 (postområdet) 95, 101Solstad, Dag 27, 97, 117f, 120,122, 164Soma 164Sophie Charlotte <strong>av</strong> Hannover(1668–1705) 129Sophie-Gips-Höfe 50f, 185, 188,196,Sophi<strong>en</strong>saele 229Sophi<strong>en</strong>straße 43, 50f, 165, 185,188, 196, 229Spandau 88, 181fSpeer, Albert 39, 154,Spilker, Karl-Heinz 84Spindler & Klatt 195Spion<strong>en</strong> som kom inn fra kuld<strong>en</strong>89Spree 24, 47, 78, 151, 173, 206,249Springer, Axel 131St. Oberholz 170, 173St. Thomas-Kirche 97Staatsoper Unter d<strong>en</strong> Lind<strong>en</strong> 32Stadtbad Neukölln 127, 181fStahn, Otto 91Stalin, Joseph 70, 88, 244, 248Stalinallee 70Stargarder Straße 23, 58, 62,66, 215Steglitz 88, 204Steiff 233, 240Stein, Peter 228Stok<strong>kan</strong>, Ketil 84Strausberger Platz 69, 70, 194,207, 213,Strindberg, August 38Suhrkamp, Peter 47Sunflower Hostel 58Sykkel (Reg<strong>en</strong>bog<strong>en</strong>fabrik) 257tTandberg, Vibeke 101, 187Tape Club 51, 187, 209, 213Taut, Bruno 119Taylor, Fredrick 82Tegel 21–23Telegraf<strong>en</strong>berg 245Tempelhof. 21, 88Temporäre Kunsthalle 223Terror<strong>en</strong>s topografi, Topographiedes Terrors 39fThalheimer, Michael 228The Whitest Boy Alive 187Thiel, Tamiko 82Tiergart<strong>en</strong> 23, 33, 35, 40, 57, 88,151–161Tismer, Anne 229Ton, Steine, Scherb<strong>en</strong> 96Treptow 78, 88, 90f, 213, 237,243, 248–250, 253, 259,Troost, Paul Ludwig 39Tropical Islands 180–182Trödelmarkt Treptow 237Tübke, Werner 187uUlbricht, Walter 32, 47, 90,Unsicht-Bar 55Unter d<strong>en</strong> Lind<strong>en</strong> 32–38, 47, 50,53, 56, 85, 89, 132, 154, 167,170, 196, 220, 223, 229, 238,245vVallgr<strong>en</strong>, Carl Johan 164VAU 194Veverne 56Volksbühne 35, 41f, 44, 46, 52,227, 229, 231, 256Volkspark am Weinbergsweg 178Volkspark Friedrichshain 73f, 78,197, 204, 258Vöner 69, 78, 196wWaltz, Sasha 229Wannsee 181, 243, 246, 247Warschauer Straße 24, 27, 70, 73,78f, 172f, 197, 213Watergate 73, 103, 111, 212, 214Wauer, Britta 42Wedding 22, 62, 83f, 88, 187,236,Weigel, Hel<strong>en</strong>e 46Weinbergsweg 49, 50, 55, 65fWeinerei 65f, 195, 199, 256Weinstein 65f, 195, 199Weiß<strong>en</strong>see 46, 88W<strong>en</strong>ders, Wim 21, 151, 205Wessel, Horst 42Westin Grand Hotel 172fWilhelmstraße 38–40Will<strong>en</strong>brock 165Wilmersdorf 88, 204, 207Wilson, Robert 47, 228Winant, John G. 88Witt<strong>en</strong>bergplatz 132, 139, 149,224, 240Wohnzimmer 65, 67, 210f, 215Wolf, Christa 36yYaam 79, 213, 259zZehl<strong>en</strong>dorf 88, 259Zionskirchplatz 23, 195Zionskirchstraße 58, 67, 183Zitty 71, 119, 130Zum schwarz<strong>en</strong> Ferkel 38Zum Umsteiger 146, 192–194,198,Zur letzt<strong>en</strong> Instanz 192Zwiebelfisch 133äÄ 122, 126, 214åÅ være ung er for jævlig 119, 165270

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