way the stone rests on
way the stone rests on the metal, which can greatly enhance those qualitiy. The settingis intimately tied to design, and the thoughtful jeweller examines every stone to work out which one best suits it. The prong setting – where the stone is held by bent-over metal claws, as small as possible to let in maximum light – is the most common but can also form a component of more complex settings. Some mounts suit particular gem cuts, or create different light effects, and some are associated only with specific houses. But chances are, when you see an absolutely stunning jewellery piece centred on a scintillating gem, there is a unique, or very rare, setting that raises the masterpiece above its merely beautiful brethren. In the 1940s Winston invented a setting that is still the brand’s signature – the cluster. Said to have been inspired by snow glistening on the leaves of a holly wreath, it mixes diamond cuts layered at different angles to create a 3D effect, receiving and reflecting light from each angle, sparkling in all directions. Set in a delicate tracery of platinum, each stone is held by claws, but the secret lies in slanting the setting of each diamond, a process of determining angles and heights so no gaps and very little metal show. The Harry Winston (harrywinston. com) signature version entails pear, marquise and round brilliant cuts, while other designers who sometimes use a version of the cluster, such as David Morris (davidmorris. com), may introduce others. Also all about sparkle is the popular pavé setting, a “pavement” of tiny diamonds all over a flat or curved surface. Modern cutting means tiny stones reflect lots of light, and pavé gives good-value shine. At an elevated level it becomes art: De Grisogono (degrisogono.com) creates pavé with coloured gems for a deep, sumptuous effect, especially when the stones are graduated with minute precision from light to dark, like a shadow passing across the piece. Letting light in is crucial and an airily decorative back in gold, especially where it will be on show as in diamond earrings from Damiani (damiani.com), or De Grisogono’s signature ”volutes” pattern, is integral. The painstaking technique is also popular with Chinese designers such as Cindy Chao (cindychao.com) and Michelle Ong. More spectacular and much rarer is the snow setting, where the pavé is composed of apparently random-sized stones that Clockwise from above: BOGHOSSIAN white-gold Kissing Gems earrings set with sapphires and diamonds TIFFANY & CO platinum Pavé Tiffany Setting ring set with diamonds VHERNIER white-gold and ebony Calla necklace set with diamonds Previous page: HARRY WINSTON platinum Winston Cluster Wreath necklace set with marquise, pearshaped and brilliant-cut diamonds 52 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM
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