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Centurion IDC Summer 2019

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BlackBook First Look A private dining room with a view at The Legacy House restaurant Crowning Jewel The newly opened Rosewood Hong Kong is a fitting new face for the Kowloon waterfront, says Lee Cobaj L ike all great cities, Hong Kong is constantly reinventing itself, and no part of the skyscraping metropolis has been in flux more often than the Kowloon waterfront. There are still changes to come – over in West Kowloon, for instance, the M+ Museum in the belated arts district is now forecast for 2020 – but square in the heart of the harbourfront the new Victoria Dockside is writing the area’s latest chapter, led by the towering, triumphant Rosewood Hong Kong. Ten years in the making, the 65-storey tower (43 of which comprise the hotel) rises above a curve of land once known as Holt’s Wharf, a former godown where ships would anchor en route from Europe to China and Australia. In 1971, the then run-down area was purchased by Cheng Yu-tung, the doyen of the Chow Tai Fook jewellery and property empire and grandfather of Rosewood’s dynamic 38-year-old CEO, Sonia Cheng. His transformational project on the site, the New World Centre, was an ahead-ofits-time development made up of shopping malls, über-desirable offices and a standout hotel. Nearly half a century later, the Cheng family has reshaped the harbourfront once again, this time morphing New World into the Victoria Dockside, a hip new district with sunny promenades, shaded gardens, PHOTO © ROSEWOOD 24 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM

An eclectic yet harmonious ensemble draws from Hong Kong’s rich histories PHOTOS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DURSTON SAYLOR, CALLAGHAN WALSH, PASCAL BONY Clockwise from above: dim sun from The Legacy House; a Harbour Corner Suite; the tower standing sentinel on the harbourfront outdoor galleries, shopping arcades, a K11 art-cum-shopping destination and, the jewel in its crown, the aforementioned Rosewood residence. In a city with more high-rises than anywhere else in the world – some 7,833 at last count – the architecture, a coppery steeple of mirrored glass, appears sophisticated if not particularly exhilarating. It is a brand of elegant understatement that continues inside, where Taiwan-born American designer Tony Chi achieves what he calls “invisible design”, which he says should be “perceived rather than seen”. In the reception area, the black and white marquetry marble floors are complemented by wooden walls featuring eight-point Bagua symbols, blue and white vases with long-stem lilies, displays of antique Chinese embroidery and a life-size sculpture of an elephant in repose – an eclectic yet harmonious ensemble that draws from Hong Kong’s rich histories. Next door, there’s a bright, prismatic patisserie and next to that is The Butterfly Room, where afternoon tea is served under a series of Damien Hirst acrylics. Swan up the nearby Disney princess staircase and you’ll find a suitably atmospheric hotel bar, DarkSide (the name is a cheeky nod to the impertinent nickname Hong Kong islanders once used for Kowloon). Elsewhere, there’s all-day dining establishment Holt’s Café (yet to find its sea legs) and a superb Chinese restaurant. Intimate, low-lit and relaxed, The Legacy House offers a delectable array of Shunde cuisine (southern Chinese regional fare known for the freshness of its ingredients) alongside refined Cantonese dishes and classics such as Peking duck. Start with a selection of the glossy, crisp, succulent, worth-the-trip-to- Hong-Kong roast meats and some zingy pan-fried fish cakes. Other gastronomic highlights come in the form of crunchy egg noodles softened with chunks of wagyu beef and woody matsutake mushrooms, wokfried chicken with a chilli kick, and summery mango sago pudding. There’s an exceptional tea menu as well as a wine list that features a remarkable array of more than 800 labels, including bottles from Lebanon, Mexico, Sardinia and Switzerland. “Swiss wines pair surprisingly well with Chinese food,” enthuses Rosewood Asia’s passionate director of wine Nicolas Deneux. And then there are the rooms: 413 in total, the largest standard rooms in Hong Kong, roughly 80 per cent with wondrous Victoria harbour views. Fabulous textures abound, drawing the eye (and hands) to woven leathers, herringbone fabric panels, Frette linens and thick woollen Chinese rugs. Weighty olivegreen lacquer doors with silver stag head handles open onto shimmering white marble bathrooms with centrepiece tubs and seasonal amenities from Maison Caulières. But for all the polish of Chi’s designs, it’s always going to be that view which steals the show, a glittering panoply of finely cut jewels encrusted in the velvety night sky. As Rosewood continues its rapid global expansion – 21 hotels are in development and it also runs The Carlyle in New York and Paris’s Hôtel de Crillon – one can only hope this Hong Kong flagship will serve as a glittering benchmark for what’s to come. rosewoodhotels.com • CONTACT CENTURION SERVICE FOR BOOKINGS CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM 25

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