STYLE & BEAUTY LOOKBOOK
STYLE & BEAUTY LOOKBOOK Above left: LOCK & CO HATTERS bleached fine Valencia panama with taupe leather headband SHAMBALLA JEWELS Limited Edition Zebra choker in white gold featuring white and black diamonds PAIGE cotton and elastane Gracelyn vest PRIVATE WHITE VC brown VCX Alexander Leathers C-3 shearling waistcoat PAUL SMITH handcrafted navy leather medium fishing bag STEPHEN WEBSTER Rayman Double Bead bracelet set in sterling silver with hematite (right wrist) HANNAH MARTIN yellow gold Vincent’s Empty Sovereign ring featuring dark blue sapphires (right hand) HANNAH MARTIN yellow gold Bid For Freedom Heavy Shackle bangle featuring orange sapphires from the Aguila Dorada collection (left wrist) BRUNELLO CUCINELLI cotton and silk white tailored trousers Above right: FINLAY & CO Pembroke Champagne sunglasses ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA grey cotton vest GIEVES & HAWKES blue suede biker jacket SHAMBALLA JEWELS Korne Pavé bracelets in leather featuring blackened gold and black diamonds (right wrist) HANNAH MARTIN sterling silver Spur ring from the Rocknroll collection (right hand) MONCRIEF croise emboss calf leather men’s case IWC Schaffhausen Portofino Midsize Automatic Day & Night in stainless steel with diamonds JOSEPH blue leather Tessa trousers W omen who step into the most hallowed emporia of men’s style are now just as likely to be shopping for themselves as for a partner. Androgynous looks have long been a fashion staple, with women appropriating men’s tailoring shapes, shirts, jeans and accessories including watches and cufflinks, but now rather than using female versions, sized down or made lighter, women are going to the source, fitting pieces designed and made for men into their feminine wardrobes. One reason is an increasingly casual, minimal and upsized wardrobe where items from sweatshirts to dress shirts work equally for both sexes. Another is the sheer quality of much men’s clothing. Less transient than women’s fashion, it is built to last which, when personal style is more important than seasonal change, women appreciate. Fine leather or suede jackets at Hackett or Gieves & Hawkes, Emma Willis’s smooth shirts and cloud-soft silk, or cashmere scarves at Berluti and Holland & Holland really do look at least as good on a woman. Accessories, where quality is equally key, are also woman-friendly. Manbags at Berluti or Jimmy Choo, studded brogues at Church’s, cufflinks from Theo Fennell, striking jewellery from Hannah Martin and man-size but lightly diamond-trimmed watches at IWC are all covetable. This is not entirely a one-way process. Brands such as Private White, designed by Nick Ashley, and Brunello Cucinelli now do styles including trousers in men’s and women’s sizes. Jonathan Anderson, who started with menswear and now also has a womenswear collection, likes to put ruffles and skirts into menswear, and does identical, deep turn-up jeans for both sexes at Spanish leather brand Loewe, where he is the new creative director. Sensing what its creative director, Linda Hewson, calls a “cultural shift”, Selfridges in London is running Agender until April – a threefloor experiment with no gendered mannequins and online items not necessarily photographed on the obvious sex. Forty brands from Ann Demeulemeester to Yohji Yamamoto are involved, plus exclusive capsules from five international labels. “It allows shoppers to approach without preconceptions and us, as retailers, to move our presentation forwards,”says Hewson. It may also be a glimpse of the future. HAIR & MAKE-UP LINDA JOHANSSON/ONE REPRESENTS; MANICURE ZARRA CELIK/LMC; MODEL DENIJA/FM 42 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM
EMMA WILLIS Ladies Bespoke shirt in Swiss cotton THEO FENNELL yellow and white gold and black rhodium Bee cufflinks IWC Schaffhausen Portofino Midsize Automatic Day & Night in stainless steel with diamonds Opening page: THOM BROWNE TB-706 tortoise shell acetate round-frame optical glasses HOLLAND & HOLLAND burgundy and ochre Dog & Gun silk scarf with tassels BERLUTI cotton knit with leather details HACKETT brown lamb’s leather reversible jacket HANNAH MARTIN sterling silver Spur ring from the Rocknroll collection (right hand) STEPHEN WEBSTER Thorn Inlay Bracelet in sterling silver set with bullseye (right wrist) HANNAH MARTIN yellow gold Vincent’s Signet Facet Ring featuring black onyx and a diamond (left hand) IWC Schaffhausen Portofino Midsize Automatic Day & Night in stainless steel with diamonds (left wrist) PRIVATE WHITE VC Goodwood Worksuit Navy Trousers in cotton CHURCH’S Burwood studded Oxford shoes in polished calf leather CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM 43
