STYLE & BEAUTY BEHIND THE SCENES Asian jewellery, where Jaipur brands such as Amrapali (amrapalijewels.com) and Gyan (gyanjaipur.com) add a fine gold-foil layer between stone and gold frame for richness. Sometimes a bezel forms protection for the top stone in the extraordinary setting known as inlay, where a feature gem is set into a matrix, often of rock crystal or rose quartz. Geneva-based brand Boghossian (boghossianjewels.com) is a master of the technique also used by Boucheron and Lebanese designer Noor Fares (noorfares.com). Boghossian also uses the kissing stones setting, where gems are set on top of each other, just touching. “Inlay is an ancient technique that we have revived, while ‘kissing’ is its natural evolution,” says CEO Albert Boghossian. “Both demand exceptional knowhow, precision and perfect stones and have taken us years to develop. Stones for inlay have to be carved and shaped to fit perfectly, while kissing requires a perfect stone to hold the upper one, to be solid with very little metal obscuring them. Both must be harmonious yet provide contrast and brilliance.” It is contrast that’s the focus of the most unusual setting to stir up the jewellery world: the spiky yet subtle point of the reverse setting – literally turning a stone on its back – is finding favour, especially those who use black diamonds. Brazilian designer Ara Vartanian (aravartanian.com) started using the reverse setting for women’s items and finds men love them too, while Annoushka Ducas (annoushka.com) loves them to give texture to charms – everything from hedgehogs to blackberries. Meanwhile Tiffany & Co (tiffany.com) places emphasis on the point with its unique Tiffany Setting, designed to make the absolute best of special stones. From the top it looks like a conventional solitaire with claws and a fine border of pavé. From the side you see the stone is raised on a Y-shaped shank held in a delicate pavé frame that both traces the pointed base of the stone and allows maximum light to enter and blaze out from the top. It is built to the individual proportions of each stone and allows it to shine – the latest take on the setting’s age-old purpose and one of the few that allows everyone to see just how magnificent an unusual setting can be. Clockwise from above: BOGHOSSIAN white-gold Kissing Gems earrings set with sapphires and diamonds TIFFANY & CO platinum Pavé Tiffany Setting ring set with diamonds VHERNIER white-gold and ebony Calla necklace set with diamonds 50 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM
Charles discovered a new point of view, somewhere between DWC and MLE. When flying becomes personal, a journey becomes a passion. From Al Maktoum to Malé and 40,000 places where you want to be. Book your private jet charter with our app or at flyvictor.com/centurion BER - OYN DPO - ORS FBO - HLP NES – KRQ CRS - PUR TXR - FLP VTU - KLH JIB - SWR OGZ - TWP BVZ - XTO PRV - ITQ CHX - PKG CTA - FHZ VXO - WES MYC - TXG CHA - AET MLS - GHT SUF - BLN BFI - TIU OTR - JHG BCA - CQS SDU - NRT NCT - YAL TEB - OAK SFO - LAS EGN - TGZ ICR - NCE BKA - CDG LYX - CPT ZUN - AUY ADL - HND JIB - SWR OTR - JHG Personal Flying Experiences Alto Points | On-Demand Jet Charter | Flight Concierge
