DEPARTURES TRAVEL
DEPARTURES TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 30 The Heart of Istria The burgeoning Croatian region exports its bountiful produce to the world, but there is no better place to sample it than at its source – and no better time to visit than now. by John McNamara CROATIA IS A COUNTRY where history seeps through every village, town and city, yet the indomitable spirit of a young nation, independent only since 1991, is impossible to miss. It’s an attitude that fuels a fierce pride in everything Croatians do and one that is helping the country to blossom in all manner of ways. Nowhere is this more true than in the beautiful northwest region of Istria. From its stunning Adriatic coastline to its verdant interior, Istria’s bounty includes its wines, olive oils and truffles that have garnered an international reputation – and multiple awards – for their quality. Now, many of the best producers are opening their gates to offer a fully immersive Istrian experience. Roxanich A background in mechanical engineering is hardly the normal way into winemaking, but little about Mladen Rožanić and his family – he has six daughters – suggests orthodoxy. A disciple of Rudolf Steiner, considered by many to be the father of biodynamic agriculture, Rožanić produces an array of organic wines – reds, whites, rosés and oranges – that are characterised by the natural processes that are used to produce them, often with a sharp, tangy The view over the Istrian countryside from Roxanich The tasting room at Ipša taste. They could be considered an acquired taste, but it is well worth acquiring. The same could be said for the latest project from the family, converting what was once the communal wine cellar for the picturesque town of Motovun into first the basis of the operation for the winemaking business and more recently into a boutique hotel. Behind a classical façade lies a colourful collection of 32 rooms, all individually designed and featuring some intriguing quirks (not least rooms with double bunk beds). The development and winery are now in the hands of Mladen’s daughters. His eldest, Lara, is in charge of the winemaking business, while daughter No 3, Sara, looks after the hospitality side (with the help of No FROM TOP: MARIJA GASPAROVIC, © ROXANICH
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: MARIJA GASPAROVIC, ŽIGA INTIHAR, © PRODAN TARTUFI Many of the best producers are opening their gates to offer a fully immersive Istrian experience 4 Mara – and, when school commitments allow, the two youngest Zara and Tara join in. Spot a theme?). The outlier in the clan is the second eldest, Petra, though she does design the labels for the bottles, among other artistic tasks. In keeping with the disruptive nature of the family business these are colourful designs that are a deliberate riposte to the more staid nature of European wine presentation. It’s particularly relevant in the latest collection from the winery – the Sorelle (or sisters). Six wines are named after each of the daughters and each boasts its own character, yet shares a tannic quality that comes from the longer contact with the grape skins. These are best sampled in one of the viewing points at the rear of the hotel that overlook glorious countryside – a reminder that, for all the modernity, it’s nature that truly captures the imagination here. roxanich.com Prodan Tartufi A short drive from Motovun, a truffle-hunting family brings a very different – but no less indulgent – experience. Housed in a collection of rustic-chic buildings looking across to the medieval town of Buzet and the private forest owned by the Prodan family, it is here where the hunt for truffles takes place. As well as producing a wealth of truffle products, the third generation of the family to work in the business, brother-and-sister team Višnja and Mirko, Clockwise from top left: olive picking at Ipša; Lara Rožanić of Roxanich; the prized products ot Prodan Tartufi revel in presenting both the history of the truffle hunt and the practicalities of heading into the woods. A tour that starts with a taste of home brandy – a tradition seemingly to be respected at any point in the day – continues with the selection from among the collection of highly trained truffle hounds, who will play the key role in the hunt. Then it is off into the forest to watch the remarkable humancanine collaboration that results in finding these much sought-after spores. Unlike most truffle hunting in the area, which is done on common ground, the Prodan estate is purely for their use, making the hunt a more intimate experience. It’s one that can be enjoyed all year round – the highly valued white truffle can be found between September and January – and is finished off perfectly with a sampling of the land’s finest product, traditionally served over scrambled eggs. More than a few Michelin-starred chefs have proclaimed Istrian truffles the best in the world and, after a trip to the Prodans’ place, it is hard to argue. prodantartufi.hr 31 DEPARTURES
